pauluk

Hi I am thinking of making a 6263 daytona and have searched through some of the posting's here and still want some questions answered, what is the best case to use? I would need one that fits the cal.72 and will take genuine the genuine crystal and crown, I can get an aftermarket case but the price is high any other suggestions?

Hi Polexpete I tried to send you a message but you box is full will send it later.

maybe a daytona cal.72

here's the lowdown;

MBW 1665 case, crown guards re-worked inside and out, case tube hole drilled and tapped for the genuine case tube, spring bar holes re-drilled to fit genuine, beveled edges and I kept the sides flat as its easy to polish them to a rounded shape, genuine crown, bezel has been polished and a genuine luminova insert fitted, the insert fitted as it should a new improvement as the first mbw I done the insert dropped into place giving you a flat look this one has the correct angle, case back has the comex stlye numbers engraved and I have polished the marking's by hand to give a more spread out appearance, the crystal is a genuine t39 the latest flat type I decided against the clarks as I sat it next to a genuine dome crystal and it is not the same, the dial is a genuine rolex dial that has been reprinted, I am happy with the dial but the coronet is not correct, the hands are genuine tudor 79090 submariner and they are the same as the sea dwellers, the date disc is a Stilty sample so many thanks to him as the bigger numbers and the flat three's finish the watch off great, all the numbers line up perfect so his hard work is paying off, the movement is an eta 2846 21 jewel non hacking and that was the sealed pack model so that keeps perfect time, the bracelet is a genuine rolex 93150 with the correct 585 end pieces, I have worked on the eta date wheel and also the dial seat to make the hands sit at the right height, I am sorry I did not do a blow by blow account of this build I just do not have the time, glad you like it.

Hi I have finished my comex 1665 at long last! enjoy

[a

ttachment=32110:sk4.JPG]

not many good quality ladies rolex reps but river has got friends of mine some good examples.

Sort of vintage. Early-80s New York Audio Laboratories' Futterman OTL mono amp (1 of a pair - which I modified, of course).

Marty all the hands were cooked for the same length of time and I stopped when the colour was a tad lighter because it will change darker with time.

charlieuk I am guessing you are in the uk, send me your address and I will send you one of my taps, you just need the tool to fit it into draper do one for a fiver and just take your time going one way then the other its really easy and as for the countersink just get a new drill bit for steel and turn it by hand it takes a bit of time but its a lot safer then a dremel I think I use an 8mm one.

movement looks real to me, I don't believe for one minute we will see replica movements looking like the one in the photo.

Have you looked into EDM? Try and find a machine shop with an EDM plunge. They will be able to get it out. An electrical pulse will break up the tap.

I bought a tap and the correct drill bit last week from a nut and bolt supplier, it cost

fantastic photo's and with regards to the movement I bought a double red mbw from a member of this board for modding and when I removed the movement I saw straight away that it was not a genuine eta movement and for me thats not a problem as I have a new 2846 21 jewel movement to go into the finished watch, I remember when you bought the mbw a few years ago from Maria you got a 2846 movement with the watch and that was how the price of the watch was high, now I suppose the price is high because of the modding capabilities.

I would so no as well I have seen one and they are nothing like the genuine one, the bezel on the mbw is very much like the original when its new.

everything looking good so far and I have a very nice reprint of a double red dial with matching hands (very nice quality) going spare if anyone wants to save some cash, the dial printing is excellent contact me if your interested.

I also agree I think stilty will crack this and have my comex on hold until he does.

many thanks!

what I mean is what is the thread type for the case tube on the case so the genuine case tube will fit, I have used a similar one on previous projects but would rather have the correct size for the one I am working on now, thanks in advance.

Exactly correct. The center point of the date font on an ETA is a mm or so off from the center point for the date font on a Rolex. MBWs & other rep dials cut their date window so that the ETA date is centered. But if you swap the rep dial for a gen dial, the date will be off-center since the gen dial's date window was cut to center a Rolex calibre's date font. At least, that is the problem I ran into with my 1665 & 6542 projects.

believe it it really did take ages I posted pics on the replica collector a few years ago, the pictures will be on my old computer but I am working on a comex 1665 at the minute and I will post pictures when its finished I have some great parts to make it look good and can do the work myself no problem anyway keep polishing with the blue paste!

Hi Freddy pleased to meet you, when I did my drsd case back I used the dremmel with the small polishing wheel and kept polishing the stamping only and I spent ages on it the result I got was the widened stamping just like the original, I kept on polishing in all directions on each letter and one thing to keep in mind is all the case backs I have seen have had different mounts of wear, I did see a double red that had hardly been worn and the case back still had the black paint and believe it or not looked a lot like the mbw markings, also I think the comex numbers were stamped with a hand press.

That is what everyone is calling V3 aka 1:1...it is the ONLY one so far with the correct crown guard that is curve cut around the entire crown. It also suffers from bezel font that is too thin.

Thanks everyone for your replies and interest!

The plate is expected this week, so I started to prep my blanks. A slight hiccup. I am good at a lot of things, but need some practice when it comes to painting. I figured I could airbrush the blanks myself. Well, that did not go over so well. I blew through 1/2 of my blanks, and probably only have 10-15 that are good enough printing. I will need to get more blanks to fill everyone's requests. At least there will be a lot of discs to test print with.

Anyway, I've sent an email to order more blanks, and found a couple of airbrush artists on craigslist to give me a quote to paint the blanks. They need to be perfect.

Stay tuned. I hope to have some test printing done this week.

I think we have the same idea...

hi just one point about the date wheel you cant copy the genuine flat tops 3's date disc from the 1575 movement because the date clicks over the other way, unlike the eta movement that clicks foreward, you will have to reassemble all the numbers (if you know what I mean).

if your watch has that much work done to it I would go for a new genuine bezel insert, luminova will finish your watch off great.