Imaknockov

I would NOT recommend using a carbon-cased watch for diving. The reason they discontinued the gen FC Diver is because they had tremendous difficulty maintaining water-resistance consistency, and when you take into account the fact that the rep cases/gaskets are nowhere near as well made as the gens, you're just asking for problems.

No need to send it back, just ask around for a local watchsmith: it might cost you a few bucks, but it will save you a load on shipping and the work will be done faster. I don't recommend disassembling the watch unless you have adequate tools.

Someone on another forum is seriously looking into offering a conversion set, I really wouldn't recommend trying to tinker with the dial yourself unless you have considerable experience and the hands of a surgeon.

how many factories/versions of diver fc are there out there?

my fc seems to have sorta wave/wood pattern? (similars to puretime pic?)

apfcdiver2.jpg

apfcdiver5.jpg

apfcdiver6.jpg

apfcdiver7.jpg

That's actually a better overall watch than the H-factory version, you just need a better carbon case.

Is this the DLC steel case version, or is it ceramic like the bezel?

Yep they didn't really nail the CF pattern, it'll be interesting to see the finished product, they say it will be better looking CF effect on final effort ...Looking forward to the reviews.

 

Also, my mistake the orange model is ceramic and not dlc, looks great. No rep unfortunately!

 

 

 

From what someone stated on RWI, they won't actually be changing anything on these watches for production, so the carbon effect that you see in the pics is what you will get.

I thought there was another member working on real Forged Carbon cases with the full diver specs (ceramic bezel etc)? Not made with a resin? 

There could be several people working on such a project, but it always comes down to who can actually deliver the goods.

Learn to use the PM function, guys.

Hi Motoman.

I would highly recommend opening the case-back and having a look. Just unscrew the eight screws on the back with a decent quality flat blade screwdriver and you're in business. As others have mentioned, it could be something as simple as a loose rotor or some loose foreign object. Normally the rotor shouldn't make any contact with the case-back if the former is installed correctly.

When, when, wheeeeeeen???

It's already available now.

Snowstorm brought everything to a halt today so I assembled my carbon diver. I tend to think that it looks nicer with SS than with the ceramic bezel, which oversaturates the design with black.

Pardon my ignorance, is this for the AP diver? Looks awesome!

Yup.

Does anybody know off hand what the size of the caseback hex bolts are?  I'm trying to find the correct tool.  

 

Thnx

Hi Eunomians.

In all fairness, you'll need to modify a hex socket wrench to remove the hex bolts. The exact size escapes me though, as I found the right size from an old mini screwdriver kit. Once you have the right size, you will have to grind the outer part of the socket until it's a little less than 0.5 mm thick to avoid gouging the case-back. To be honest, that was the most frustrating part of the build, and I'm really happy that AP moved away from those screws!

I would say that it's a firm maybe.



It's hard to see in the pic but I also managed to re-shape the crown guards to make them more like the gen.

Hi everyone.



The first Montoya cases are done. Those of you who are on the waiting
list please PM me, as I will need your personal info. Tomorrow I start
on the official first transplant, wish me luck

Since the RB III isn't among the more popular models, it's very likely that it it's older stock with matching movement. The more recent releases have incorporated some useful updates to the movement that make them much more reliable. While frustrating, trust that it will be worth the wait

Gold reps are okay for occasional use, I'd never use one as a beater though. I love version 2.0 of this watch, I guess my 1.0 Don Ramon will now be relegated to Frankenstein experiments

It's essentially the same as the RBII but with a different dial color/motif, which is to say that it carries over the same tells as the II in the form of the un-openworked dial. That minor issue aside, I happen to think that this is a beauty, and definitely more of an eye-catcher than the titanium version. I would stick with the trusted dealers though, since they've proven themselves over time and IMHO, that extra peace of mind is priceless.

So the carbon parts or complete cases are rare like hense teeth now??!!

Dr. Theo

They're made in small quantities at a time. Currently finishing up a batch as we speak.

The forged carbon case GP has already been repped, and rather successfully if I might add.

Glad to see the parts arrived safely. Definitely requires a video to show-off the carbon though.

Bear in mind that there were some major rep busts in China a couple of weeks ago, so supply may be temporarily disrupted. Also, depending on how popular (or not) some models are, it's possible that certain of the less popular ones are not a big production priority and so may take longer to re-stock or won't be restocked in the foreseeable future.

Rest assured that so long as there is demand for good quality reps, there will be someone somewhere making them, it's as simple as that.

Thinking out loud here.. I wonder if a torx screw head (the head not the driver) would fit and could be turned down on a lathe to make a tool, it's the only thing I can think of that has that shape and doesn't need to be custom made.

In so much the parts are very small and the knurling very delicate, I felt it wiser to order a tool specific to the task from Ofrei rather than risk screwing up the pusher tube, which in turn ruins the case, which cannot be purchased separately. In this case, ruining the pusher tube would essentially scrap a $600 watch.

Why would you want to remove them? I would say they are probably pressure fitted or a combination with glue. Removing them will compromise water resistance in the future if you don't reinstall them properly.

Because I can't tool a mold to make a proper forged carbon case with the pusher tubes installed.

Hello everyone. I was disassembling my AP Grand Prix and seem to have come across a little bit of a snag. I was able to remove the chrono pushers without too much difficulty, but now I'm left with the pusher tubes which seem to require a special tool to remove. Might anyone know the specific size/type of the socket tool needed to remove these? The bottom knurled part has diameter of 3.6-3.7 mm while the taller, smooth upper part of the tube measures about 2.5mm.

Id any of the resident watchsmiths could chime in I'd be very greatful. Thanks in advance