rmcsherry

I think it's posted at TRC / Watch trader / RWI in the 'tools and parts' section. The only thing is he claims you'll save $45, which is absolute crap (unless US shipping is $50 more than to the UK).

Here's how to do the hands, and a sandwich dial is a piece of cake - put a stanley blade between the two parts of the dial to seperate them - then paint the lume in the appropriate places. There's someone on the boards who is doing a group buy of C3, although you can go to the supplier directly. There are people in the EU who will work on it for you, if you use the search function you should find all the information you need.

He's now selling a PAM 050, I'm no expert but aftermarket accessories and suspect canon pinion screams fake! There is a hard-to-find rep with double release button strap and a different case back - it'd be interesting to find if the SN matches.

Their server seems to block a lot of IP's - if this happens, you can go through a proxy to access the forums.

Actually, looking at the other photos, the case isn't a Breguet. I know very little about this type of watch, but would it be a Jumping Hours? EDIT: It looks like Toubillon1801 is right, damn my slow typing!

I've sure I've seen it before. The dial layout is similar to some Breguet Classique models, but A. Lange & Söhne / Glashütte have models like this. I can't see it in Watches International, maybe someone else knows?!

Before I waste too much C3 or too many dials / hands, here's a couple of questions... - Do you remove the lume from hands before applying new lume - if so, how?! I've been using a stanley blade, but I don't want to scratch them. Also, what consistency should the new lume be - too thin and it seems to mess up! On the spare hand set I've been practicing on, the lume can get messy on the front. To avoid this, is it just a matter of mixing thicker lume / waiting for it to 'go off'? - Do you have to do anything to a pearl before / after you lume it? I've avoided using the diluter, and have mixed it half and half as instructed. To get a longer lasting lume, presumably you mix a larger quantity of powder, what's the ideal amount for a long lasting, bright lume? To start with, I've got 3 Panerai dials + hands, one Omega PO and a Chronofighter - I'll start with the Pannies and hope I improve by the time I reach the Omega!! That's it for now, but any other tips will be appreciated.

I tried to buy that one from *that* site the other day, £130 including delivery for the buckle and strap. Apparently someone beat me to it though. Damn.

I guess it'd be better if you could take the crystal out, but I've never tried to remove the AR. I've got a polished 44mm case without CG or case back (or bezel I'm afraid, but I'll show you where to source a new one to fit) if it's of any use to you.

Don't ask! It's a bit of a money pit at the moment; I've got a Russian 6152/1 to put it in to, but I'm looking to do some custom work on the dial. The movement needs some attention, then I will get acrylic crystals made up, as well as a set of hands (no luck so far, the minute hand is 0.80mm and the hour hand is 1.56mm - very irregular!). I'm also looking for a GPF sew-in buckle before I get a custom strap, which is proving tricky. I've got a back wind movement that I'm thinking of selling to raise funds to complete the rest of the watch. The problem is, the more research I do, the more fussy I become - resulting in the project going nowhere!

I've seen a few similar ones up for sale, but not the same. I guess this one was from a pocket watch, as wrist watches of that time were tiny! Here's a link to a similar movement currently up for sale. The odd thing I've noticed is that all Rolex movements I've seen (including the Eaton pocketwatch, Rolex Observatory / Precision pocket watches etc.) all have seconds @ 6 (bearing in mind the winding stem is @ 12). I've read in several places, not just the internet, that Panerai switched to Angelus movements not only to reduce wear on the seals, but to enable a sub second dial. Either this information is incorrect, or the movement was modified by Rolex but not supplied to Panerai. Any ideas, or have I got the wrong end of the stick again?!

I'm not sure, I thought it was a WWII strap - I can't find the post right now, but the guy has a number plate and a beer bottle wearing a panny as his signature. I don't spend much time reading over there - maybe someone else will be able to help!

If I recall correctly, this is one of his straps from vintage leather that he sells over at Psti. They're a bit on the expensive side if you go for a sewn in buckle, but well worth the money by the looks of things. Also, if you're going to invest in a WM case and Rolex 618, you may as well splash the cash on a nice strap!

Oops, my mistake - just noticed the .jp email address!

I stumbled across this earlier, it has lots of photos that may be useful to someone as reference - here's the link. He has taken photos of completely disassembled watches, from Panerai and Graham to Audemars Piguet, IWC or Rolex. I'll include a couple of images to save the hassle of rooting around Japanese websites (this isn't very dial-up friendly, but here goes:)

That's a great watch - and the one I'm currently working on. I prefer the version in the Panerai brochure with the flipped CG, the Brev Ital engraving on the front looks so good! Any thoughts on how you'll do a dial?

I thought my 2 month search was over... until I saw the price. I've got a Graham Chronofighter (I'm hoping to get another soon, they're amazing despite the huge flaws in the reps) - and would like to get a thick 22/20 strap that isn't an exotic leather. Some of Bob's straps look about right compared to gens - yet I can't get the correct size. Here's the ebay link to the strap and buckle I've been trying to find for ages, unfortunately it's out of my price range (6 times the cost of the watch!!). Does anybody have any suggestions for a 22/20 strap that will nicely suit a Graham? I'll post some pictures soon, it's a silver/white dial, a chocolate strap with white stiching would be perfect. If anybody feels the need to rep the buckle on the ebay link, let me know and I'll buy a few

Nice plexi! The thick case back looks great, I wish I could find where to get one made for mine...

Nooooooooooo! I'm cursed, I can't log in! The last lottery was the same, I don't think it was meant for me

I just wondered if anybody has any information on 26mm Rolex single shoulder spring bars as used in Panerai 6152's? I can't even find a picture of one - I know they're impossible to get hold of, but surely photos exist?! I was curious whether River's spring bars could be adapted (ie. using 2 bars to make one with solid ends) to give the same effect as the original spring bars. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Saves the confusion of me doing it!! Thanks a lot.

Wouldn't have a clue how to add one! It seems most people see it as an investment though... I'm waiting for a buckle to arrive before getting Rob to make me a custom strap, it seems expensive but worthwhile for the effort I've put into the project.

I was reading the subject about how much you spend on a rep, and wondered - how much would you spend on a strap? The way I have looked at it up until now is similar to buying cables for your stereo - as a rule of thumb, spend 10% of the cost of the system. Applied to a gen, the straps will be $200 - $400... however I know of some members who spend this to go with their reps. I guess a cheap strap will always let down a good rep! So, how much would you spend?

Personally, I'd spend no more than about $325 on an 'out of the box' rep. However, it's easy to get carried away with projects - tracking down a decent case, the ideal movement, getting custom straps / dials etc. are all affordable individually, but the price soon spirals out of control! I think that once you've got a project going, it's more of a hobby than consumerism - therefore the extra cost involved becomes justifiable. Then again, it's 6am and I'm rambling

I'm trying to find a metal movement spacer ring for a 47mm case. The outer diameter is approx. 40mm, yet the inner should be 35mm, not 36mm like the unitas movements. I assume a custom job would be very expensive, although I've not looked into this yet. Any ideas?