abakan

so 001 did have an L dial? As I remember some were swearing that 001 could only have T dials, but others thought that they came with both. Looks nice, 001 is one of my favorites

Falco-2 watches Marrickvilleboy sportsterRider rek001 thl j-auz (eta preferred) fxrandy (eta preferred and ivory lume, dont try to vintagise it at the factory) pugwash (cheapo version) Ubiquitous rbj96-1 or 2 watches yt74-Questionable? rollypolly bmwrolex watchdude (eta preferred) paneraifreak John Paul olreon r11co-Questionable? chrgod klingsor-4 or more watches! alt.watch.obsess-Questionable? robertk riverwindMDS have blue tmg doubletap (good one only) piratedzeus (less expensive version-questionable?) longshot section8 frank2001 waterpruf-Questionable? justasgood jkpadget2 bremerk2 ylltrb masticore joelmassee ajminia DaveR Jimster paragonrep-1 maybe more jetsons (eta a plus, ivory colored lume, not the yellow stuff) manuel rower ciso1969 Indyclmbr (1, maybe 2 depending on movement, cost, etc.) Stephane Masticore (eta a plus, ivory colored lume, not the yellow stuff) Nanuq (Sorry I didn't get you on the list the first time.) Dieselpower Watchman3 docblackrock JKTOWN Dachshund (2) b16a2 BenWaaaaah - eta please! Also depends on cost. abakan

that would work

Flat top would be correct, even though superdome looks very sexy on this... nice start on a long path

"Joined: 24-January 07" not intended to offend you, but you gave me a good laugh :lol: As for th 111 vs 177, I don't know much, but when I bought my 2nd Pam it ended up being 001 (correct old bridges under solid case back). They didn't have a correct movement at that time, and I just leaned towards non-see-through back since I knew a lot of watches that I would buy in the future would have see-through. Just to give you a food for thought, not to make you change your mind...

Great great collection. Are you trying to match TANFOGLIO's collection In the time like this I start thinking why I have so few panerai watches (3)... edited for spelling

LADA 01, crank it in a winter time manually . Not fun, but, heck, warms you up very well

on the official website the inner bezel marks ( 05 10 15 20 etc) are askew!!! The funny thing is if you search for this watch picture on the web or go in the store they will be aligned properly (05 with 5 min marker etc), meaning - either TAG guys screwed up assembling the watch for a photoshoot or they used a computer generated pictures where they messed up the alignment of an inner bezel. This watch is very close to the original , I just wish they did it with the bracelet too.

No, they are talking about PR at 6 o'clock. 222 is at 5.

way to go, I think with this date mag I will pull the trigger. It would be a big bugger if it was a tiny one.... Bring it on!!!

Great job! Thanks for taking a time to do that on this scale and we appreciate you are bringing it to the forum, not only to yourself!!! If there is a waiting list, please, put me down for two.

Randy, I broke few tubes. They were long, short. i don't think it matters much, more likely the amount of force you apply, and if you use a rolex inserting wrench, I can guarantee you will brake it.

I used a cobalt drill bit so that the sharp edges catch the tube from inside. Then I fixed a bit in the handle (the one for threading) and went CCW. It took the tube out. In my case, I didn't have to rethread the case, you didn't necessarily strip either tube or case, just applied an extra pressure when the tube didn't have any room to go anymore. So the top part just broke off. Try it if you have a set of cobalt bits.

very sorry to hear this. i offer my deepest condolences to you and your family.

Great watch, I have one too and am waiting for a Palp's crown. From the picture JF CG doesn't look that different from a stock one. Only thing is it has a rubber ring on the pin that holds CG lever. That gives it a nice resistance when open/close and no looseness. Congrats!

Ok, I'll chime in the discussion if you allow. Just one thing made me think of something. He is using an open ID auction now, when previously it was private ID. You know what it makes me think - he wanted to create a sense of comfort in people who would be willing to pay $5-6K for it. For that he ran couple auctions, did the shill-bidding (I think, Randy, you were right here). Then it would look like two items went for $8K. It might've moved some potential buyer to spent money on his stuff. Now it is an open ID auction, with legitimate buyer bidding ~$4k. I am not saying that buyer wouldn't get the watch, but only that previous auctions were possibly the best example of good marketing at a cost of??? may be $10 per commercial

artoero, the 7765 has a date on the wheel. Use in a few chronographs, like Heuer Champion. Westcoasttime has one military chronograph for sale now I think on ebay. As for Landeron, there is a whole family of them. Mostly they don't have date, some have day, month inplementation with wheels, and date on the subdial at 6 o'clock with hand (Obvously ). Used in Delbana, Wakkman, Levrette to name the few. edited for errors

1st is Landeron family chronograph, manual, like 148, bicompax, 9 and 3 o'clock, 60s and 30min respectively 2nd is Valjoux 7765, manual, bicompass at 9 and 12 o'clock, 60s and 30min respectively, plus date

That's exactly how Gevril layout is: seconds at 3, 30 min counter at 9. And I remeber it has thick case. Almost positive it's 2824/DD combination. (see picture) Whether seller is giving all info right on it, I don't know.

Interesting stuff. Regarding gevril, it is actually an automatic ETA 2824, I think, coupled with dubois depraz unit on top of it. It possibly has the same subdial spacing (if he used a real dial???) and uses asymmetric pushers (they look that way on his photo). Quite an interesting idea how to build a 6263. The only thing I remember would spoil it is 20mm lug spacing. May be something else too?

I've had 1665 from WM, but don't remember seeing 1680...

Thanks guys! It became possible after a direct or indirect input from many members on this board and a long steep learning curve. I commend you for sharing the knowledge with others!

Thank you lionsandtigers! I would agree it looks good I prefer the grinding stone bits to make initial bevel just because i hold the drill with the hand, and when you use a drill bit it may start wandering around On the picture is Epiphone Les Paul, hopefully I'll buy it soon. Currently I am down to one spanish acoustic guitar, which I really like. But before that I think I'll spend some on a good digital piano/keyboard. Will teach my son some music I am looking for a gen vintage inserts too. I have couple vintage pearls that would fit original WM or MBW inserts, but they are too small for modern inserts (the hole is too big in those). So, for now, it'll be pearless Onto the 1665 white now

Thank you! Mods include: generic tube with genuine crown, 21,600BPH movement, drilled lugholes and rounded up sharp edges on the case, slightly modified crownguards, genuine T127, generic bezel insert with stripped gloss (used matte look ), 20mm springbars. @lionsandtigers, thank you for a compliment. You're right, lugholes have pretty noticeble bevel which initially I thought was a disaster. I used diamond bits with the tip looking like a ball, slightly bigger than a lughole. I used slow speed drill to just simply shave off the sharp edges of the holes. The problem here was they didn't look good to me, so I kept working on them untill it was almost too much. Later when worked around the case with the file and a dremel tool it all smoothed out and gave this reconditioned look ( not too much though) which I presently like and don't feel like changing. Word of caution: before you drill lugholes, try to bevel them just a bit with either bits like I described or a bigger size drill bit. The reason for it is I found that when you drill the case you may see some of the metal in the case may shift towards outside right around a hole, making it look like a crater from volcano. Then later it's harder to bevel this, not impossible, but just harder, especially if you do it hand held. It may not apply to everyones doing. I use hand held drill with cobalt bits, fine diamond shaping bits, dremel tool. If you have a question, shoot me a PM.

Finally, my friends, I finished working on my WM 1680. It's a beauty when you receive it, but with few changes it is just Here is few pictures to judge: