supermanx

I buy a lot of used reps, and it seems they are never oiled and/or polished. You would be amazed what 30 minutes will make. Reps when they come from the factory are dirty... Here are some pictures after a good cleaning and a little bit of touch up with a cape cod. Compare the dull gunmetal appearance of the rep band, very little shine unlike the brilliance of gen.

The nickel movement is "supposed" to be better then the brass.

Two tips learned the hard way, cyclops can fragment and the pieces hurt like hell if you step on it (or worse shoot up into your eye) and dont set a hot a$$ crystal on a cold piece of metal or it will crack.

Talk to davidsen to get the crystal, replacing it you can probably find a local watchsmith to replace or someone on the board. Crystal replacement is fairly easy. 127 will be a little harder as a die that large is not common and the crystal is curved, but not too difficult.

This guy had an auction shut down about a week ago there was a post on the dark side.

I need a cheap mineral glass replacement crystal for pam 44mm with date cyclops. Apparently the sizes are differant between the date cyclops and non cyclops. I order one of each off the guy that sells them off ebay the non date doesn't fit and the date cyclops one was mis aligned (cyclops was too far to the left). I am desperate to fix a "friends" watch so he will quit being a pain in my ass.

Wow nice pic, except for the perfect crown guard and awesome blue hands I like mine better

I used oxyclean, boiled water put the oxyclean in slowly (to fast and the reaction will quickly overflow your pan)... Had to completely disassemble the watch and band. Made sure to remove the tachymeter ring its sticky taped on. Then throw the parts in the bath and let it continue to boil stirring ever 5-10 minutes. I checked the pieces after every 30 minutes to ensure they were consistant color. After the first 30 minutes it was a bail hay color, after another 30 i started getting a blued dark grey. I didn't like the bail color so I dipped it longer. The blued color is not consistant but with a touch of 3 in 1 oil it turns the ti a perfect consistant dark grey with just a hint of blue if you look at certain angles in certain light. I have one original link i'll see if I can take a comparision shot. The differance is huge though, before the ti was barely destinguishable from brushed ss in appearance. Basically i stole the instructions from others here and on the dark side, i am not the original.

But where can I get the OP stickers for the back to make it authentic

I brushed all the ss, because I like the look better, gen is brushed tantilium (ti on rep) and polish tantilium (ss on rep). oxydized and brushed give it a more consistant appearance in my opinion. I havent even been able to find a decent picture of a 192 gen anywhere but the panerai website and panaristi reference, and both leave some question as to the "actual" appearance. Usil i did a full clean with dishsoap and a toothbrush before dipping using gloves after washing, was worried about oils from my fingers inhibiting the oxi. Acid would probably work better but too daring for my blood. An hour in the oxyclean will not harm the ss, but I recommend disassembling the links because the oxy can't get into the crevises as easily and your bracelet will be very dry and stiff with dried oxy in every crack. It would be very difficult to clean all the oxy out without breaking down everything. And if I decide I dont like it or would be better for resale back to original you can polish the oxidation away with a cape cod.

This is the outcome after an hour in the bath: This is a good shot that shows the differance lighting makes on the appearance of the ti:

Pug had The Zigmeister fit a gen dial

I like a heavy watch, but an all steel panerai with steel band is HEAVY (not much into leather, at least not on my watches) Ti and steel is a nice mix for the pam (192) still heavy but not combersome. For me its dial printing, pearl, and alignment issues... I know the crown guard are bad on alot of subs but i just never look at it even when comparing them hand in hand it just does not pop out at me. But unfortunatly reading the forums and finding out what the flaw is... is very unhealthy because once i know its there i obsess over it.

You can source replacement crystals at a few places, but you are correct that the replacements will not have an etched crown unless you purchase it from a rep dealer.

Dial depth has a large part in magnification. Also a watchmaker should remove the old and install it for you using uv glue.

I aquired it from a member here, should be available shortly.

Can you post a picture of the replated watch?

The tiger on rubber band should be fine, there was a member who posted a review that had bought it for his dad that golfed a couple times a week. No problem with it and impressed other golfers that had the same watch.

Well all i received was a stuffed bear with the biggest a$$hole I've ever seen. And its ticking? maybe its a bomb. I gave it to the dog to play with.

done.

-edit sorry just reread your post, this only applies to the large chrono second hand. Try resetting with the chrono at 45 min position to reverse the stop position, and 15 min position to advance the chrono hand stop position. If this works the bad news is your hand will continue to slip everytime you do not reset it from exactly the 00 position until you get it glued.

The other problem is that dial is only available in the white gold case, which has the thicker bull horn ends, not the standard ends like the ss daytonas.

Interesting that you bumped this enzo, planning on doing it to the one I bought today.

It's not cheap or easy to find vintage pearls. Most inserts you see on ebay are for modern subs.

Not to be offensive, BUT... in terms of quality reps that is a POS. Please tell us you didn't pay 800 at switchwatches.com or something similar?