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ronny25

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Posts posted by ronny25

  1. It can never be right.

    As Bike Mike said, this dial is very special, changes colour depending on the viewing angle/lighting. I checked one at AD, and there is no way they' ll get that changing colours repped right. Sometimes the dial will look blueish, like a MOP dial, sometimes it will look completely grey. It is special, you really need to see one at AD to understand as there is no way you can show this in pics.

    I' d steer clear of it, and stick to other proven dials like the graphite or the black with white subs. Can' t go wrong with those.

  2. some good points being made.

    if reliability and durability are your priority then forget the 7750, and basically about all Breitling watches.

    and as you don' t seem to like the SFSO, after having tried it at the AD, don' t buy it just because of reliability or accuracy, as you will likely never like it anyway and you' ll end up selling it in a few months losing money and time in the process.

    try looking for a Rolex (non Daytona) and you should be fine, you can never go wrong with those.

  3. Only a watchsmith can deal with it. Or try to see for how much a new 7750 goes and do a direct swap, might be cheaper than fixing the old broken one, and without all the hassle and risk of sending it far away to some watchsmith.

  4. I also saw a nice navitimer dial on ebay, not sure where you found yours.

    Your best bet would be to contact your dealer, they always know that kind of stuff as they know these watches inside out. This is what I did when having similar probs. And it' s definaltely worth doing on a navitimer as the dial is poor.

  5. ok I keep it then.

    as I said I' m not that bothered about the problem itself, as it' s hard to see unless you can stare at the watch from close range. and on the numbers where it gets too obvious, I can always fix it by turning the datewheel slightly.

    but I was more worried this was a sign the watch was dying or something.

    and it' s definately not a printing prob, it' s just that when changing date, the date stays stuck too high in the date window, so much so that you can see the following number at the bottom of the date window.

  6. Hi gents,

    I' ve got this BCE for some 10 days, and the datewheel is not aligning properly. It is affecting all numbers, but gets aprticularly visible on dates ranging 17 to 29. I can live with it, but then I wonder if this isn' t a sign something isn' t quite alright with the mechanism, and that I should still send it in for repair.

    Here' s a shot of the problem:

    you can even see, where circled in red, the top of the following number.

    93643076os7.jpg

    w800.png

    here is how it should be (after aligning it properly by tweaking with the datewheel)

    25974701vw8.jpg

    w800.png

    What' s you opinion guys? Should I send it back or what?

  7. Do you have the watch with you, or are you assuming it is only obvious under certain lighting conditions? I only ask because in the picture above (puretime) you can see a slight difference, but the dealers photo's usually always portray a watch differently to normal pictures and when it's on the wrist. If you do have one could you post some pics?

    It doesn't make it a fantasy rep per se because its very close apart from the subdials being slightly too light in colour.

    I saw the gen one in a shop, got it in my hands and played with the light to check how dial changes colours, and I have a rep here.

    There' s a serious difference: when looking straight at the rep, you can' t really notice a difference in colours. You need powerful lighting and to look from the side to notice a difference

    The gen dial is a lot lighter than the rep, and contrast is a lot more powerful with the subs, you can always see a difference.

    But this is not something new: a lot of dials are way off. The Monbrillant' s white dial colour is also completely inacurate, and the BCE TT dials are also way off, the gold subs are never the right colour and you can easily spot it ' s a fake, even from 5 feet away.

  8. Is the rider tab the whole metal piece that fits on the bezel at the 12, 3, 6 and 9 positions? If so then that's what fell off at the 12 position with the pearl. Didn't realize they had screws in them, I'll have to look at the other three. Doesn't help with the one that's missing though.

    Yes, that' s what they call the rider tab.

  9. Just ordered mine from Josh. My curiosity got the better of me as I've always wanted one to compare to my gen side by side. Once that's done, it might go to the for sale forum:)

    don' t forget to do a good side-by-side comparison, I think it is yet to be done for the blacksteel skyland.

    and for the reliablity prob, it is based on 7750 so will have the same probs as all other 7750 based watches. 7750 is not exactly perfect, they tend to fail and need service anyway after a year or two. But you can always replace it with eta 7750, or with another 7750 you order from dealer.

  10. then it hasn' t been repped correctly at all. I have one under my eyes, and you can barely notice any difference between dial and subs' colour. There is one correctly repped version sold by nicerepl*ca.com, the one posted in my link above. You can clearly see difference between dial and subs' colour.

    but this all grey version with automatic in white seems to be a fantasy rep: there' s no difference between dial and subs colour, only under very strong lighting and certain angles will you notice a very slight difference. Not sure why they did it as they generally know better.

  11. Just had a quick look on his website, the one you have posted is accurate, here is the graphite version that we're referring to;

    BRE-CE-UE-SS-GRA-01.JPG

    And the grey version with darker subdials and white writing

    BRE-CE-UE-SS-GRE-01.JPG

    b16a2,

    the second one you posted doesn' t exist in Breitling catalog. So how do you know it is accurate? Is it some special edition or something?

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