CaptainJack

None of the movement spacers (retaining rings) I have worked with lock into place. They simply sit in the space between the outer edge of the pillar plate & inside wall of the case. The only orientation possible for the spacer is the amount of space cut into the spacer where the stem fits through. Otherwise, you simply secure the dial to the movement by eye (generally, based on the position that best centers the stem @ 3 o'clock &/or the date in the dial's date window, if fitted).

Thats interesting freddy333, both retaining rings I own have two locking screws, almost 180 degrees apart.  The TC RR has screws that are round on top and need to slip in at cutouts in the watch case and then rotated

to line up the stem slot. I found my old WM9 RR and it had the two screws, but they were cut on one side of the head. Once I lined up the movement, I dropped in the retaining ring so I had proper clearance for the winding

stem and then just backed out the screws until everything was tight.

It's back together and it's better than it was, but the dial face still has a left shift. I think I'll drop BK a line and see if he can help me with this beast.

Thanks guys,

Jack

Unless you are removing or repositioning dial feet, I am not aware of any way to alter the alignment of a dial onto an ETA movement (the dial feet fit into holes in the plate & the stem must align with the hole @ 3 in the side of the case). If you are removing dial feet & securing the dial with dial dots or cement, then it is done by simply by eye (align the date in the center of the date window).

freddy333, It has a gen dial(feet ground off) on the eta movement. I guess the question is should the movement retaining ring be rotated separately into its proper position and then locked down? 

The movement holder should hold the movement tightly enough that no indexing is needed. I don't understand what you are asking.

 

There are a million tutorials on how to recase a movement.

Hey sneed12: The TC movement retaining ring has two set screws that need to be loosened to rotate to a half-moon notch so the whole movement assembly can be

removed. When I did that, and removed the movement,  the ring separated from the movement assembly. I put it back on, but the process of rotating it back into place creates the 

problem of the dial face rotating. I figured I was doing it wrong, so I was hoping that someone had taken the time to create a tutorial on doing it properly.

Hello all,

Tried the search function, but no luck.

I had one of the "watchsmiths" on this forum assemble my TC 16610 last year and have not been happy with the dial misalignment since I got it back the

second time he tried to space it properly. My watch has a heavy mix of gen parts including the dial face.

I finally got tired of seeing the dial offset to the left, so I took it apart today and I'm having a bit of difficulty lining up the movement holder and properly

indexing the dial face.

I was hoping someone had done a tutorial on installing an ETA movement in a case.

Anyone know of a link?

Thanks,

Jack

I'll post here also(after following the link to the review), sign me up for one.

Sign me up for one.

OK, I'll put myself down for one.

Hmmmm... why didnt I thought of that ???

Probably I was all over my newly bought dremel tool and forgot the basics...

I've ran out of spare link ... yikes!

Do you still have the one that got mucked up by the Dremel work?

If you do, you could try the sandpaper on that to check for viability.

Jack

this is a single run of 200 pieces. We don't know if the manufacturer will make more in the future........

Hello janeto, would it be appropriate for you to start a buy list at this point?

Worst case is TC isn't happy with the new DW and the list gets cancelled.

We use buy(commit to buy) lists on the green coffee bean forum I belong to.

It prevents excessive PM's and lets everyone know where they stand when there is

limited availability.

Just a thought,

Jack

I tried out a piece of old SEL onto my Sean's case... this particular out of nowhere SEL is slightly wider between the lugs so it gives me an opportunity to try out the"trimming' process ...- in pursue to the perfect Gen - like SEL .

.I use a Dremel 300 to do the job ...

It took me 5 mins into the process before I realized It was too hard to get the 2 sides of SEL trimmed , especially we are talking about a clean-cutting-straight-down line that supposed to flush nicely parallel to the inner lug vertical.line....

The dremel easily results in uneven surfaces, that I declared a failure to this exploration after the width was over - trimmed

in short - we may ruin the SEL easily if we trim it using our own hands...

I hope that we can discuss and resolve this together

glennmichael, it's curious that you went with the Dremel. Hand grinding/finishing with one of those is tuff(I use one on a regular bases with model trains).

Since the SEL is toast, I'm curious if you could try to clean up the ends with varying levels of fine sandpaper and emery cloth?

If you decide to try this, use a single pull technique where you sand in only one direction.

I'm very curious if this would work at keeping the two sides of the SEL even and parallel with each other.

Just a thought for your consideration,

Jack

What's wrong with the TC clasp? I find it really very good. It's the SEL that needs to be wider a bit.

It's been said that the WM9 V3 clasp was the closest to gen, when compared to all the 93250 rep's out there. When I compared a gen to the WM9, I could see where the V3 fell short.

When I compared my new TC clasp to the WM9, I swapped the WM9 clasp to the TC bracelet, it's better.

The TC clasp is very good, no doubt. But, if we're talking one to one, not so much.

This thread is about getting the best, one to one SEL for our projects. Why not pursue the best clasp?

Jack

If TC can put this new SEL on his V2 bracelet, I'll be interested in two. I think the next project TC should tackle is

the Perfect 93250 Clasp.

I already bought the old V2 for my project and swapped his clasp out for the one from my WM9 V3 bracelet. I've

been shopping around for a year now for a gen clasp that wouldn't break the bank, but no luck so far.

If TC could find one of his contacts to do a one to one of the 93250, I'm sure he'd have a long list of customers.

Jack

Near as I can count, the list is up to about 90 DW's so far. Depends on how many a couple of the guys

order beyond ten.

Great looking sub watcher. Your list of gen parts are exactly what I'm getting ready to have installed on my

TC case. I swapped out the clasp from TC'c band for the one from my WM9 V3, it looks a bit better.

If I hadn't bought a POS WM9 V3, my investment would be on par with your stated cost to date.

Jack

actually.......this situation is unique...we have a very rare opportunity. When have you ever heard or seen a DWO that looks like the TC?

One to one ink and font compared to a gen; just the damn backround color is way off.

Jack

I only need one, but count me in.

I bought the DW overlay with some other parts from TC and was very pleased with everything else, but not the DW overlay.

To say they are grey is almost an understatement. I layed it next to a gen DW and it was like night and day.

But what was very impressive is the font, size and the layered ink look on TC's; one to one with a gen!

Just the damn color of the backround that ruined it for me.

This is the last part I need to finish my uber-franken sub.

Jack

Count me in as interested in the case and the V2 watchband.

Sent you a PM TC, answer if you have time.

Jack

chefcook, sent you a PM about your build, hope you have time to reply.

Jack

My money is on Rolex. They got tired of us playing with their ball and are trying to close the playground down.

Jack

Thank you for the suggestion zigmeister, I just sent an email to Kent to ask if he's interested.

I would suggest you try Kent at everestwatchworks.

I do have a minimum billing amount and would not accept only a set of hands for lume, the reality is that it's not worth it. Overhead is the same for all jobs, any less than the minimum and your loosing money...sorry...

zigmeister,

Yes, I got your price list back in Oct., saved it for future reference, but deleted the email because I

thought the contact info was on the attachment; everything else is there, but no contact info.

I'm still interested in having you do the lume job, but will you do just re-luming? I seem to remember

a minimum order amount.

If you're willing, contact me: jack..at..cmspan.net

Jack

You received by email, on Oct 10, 2010, my complete pricing and capability list, you never responded....

Wow, he just told me yesterday he didn't have any to fit the 2824.

But your link to the hand set from Clark got me really looking at the hour hand.

I've attached some photos from Rolex forums and one from Tribal, the one of just hands is from Yuki's site.

If you look at the length of the hour hand from the movement attachment point to the mercedes circle, the length

of the Clark set hour hand looks kind of short.

I looked at the hour hand from my V3 and my gen 16613, and they both have more length in that first section.

I went ahead and bought the set from Yuki to check them out; 10 bucks at this point in the game is nothing.

But his sets seem to have a heavy(width) metal look to them compared to gen hands.

This could get interesting.

Oh, I just heard back from Vac, sixty dollars to relume my hand set, ouch! The zigmeister charges $35, but there's

no way to contact him anymore.

Jack

PS- I just bought the Clark set so I can do a side by side....

No worries mate!

I ordered a set from Yuki (along with some other stuff) like two days ago. Checked with Clark before ordering and it looks like he still has them available in this listing.

ispytonyv, not sure who RSH is. Care to elaborate?

Jack

RSH also just started doing lume

Hey modelizer,

Thanks for the heads up on Yuki's, he has a Tudor hand set for the eta 2824-2, so I'm going to drop him a line and pick up a set for relume.

I tried Clark's, but he doesn't have any.

I went ahead and sent an email to Vaclume to see if he wants the work, Zigmeister doesn't take PM's anymore.

Jack

Hello Jack.. In the US you have the Zigmeister and Vaclume working their lume magic.. And regarding the sweep second hand, I think your best bet is either Yuki's or Clark's full hand set on the bay..

Good luck on your oddyssey!

Hello all,

In the ongoing odyssey of my V3 "Z" 16610 build, I'm at the point where I need to find someone to do a strip and lume

of the hand set with Superluminova.

I've looked at all the forums for someone offering the service, and there doesn't seem to be anybody currently offering

the service for the Rolex reps; did I miss someone out there?

I also managed to loose my sweep second hand(tiny little sucker), so does anybody know of anyone who sells hand sets to fit

the ETA 2824-2?

On a more positive note, I just got my V3 watch case back from PBDad who installed my gen crystal/gasket, gen bezel assembly and

gen tube; fabulous work, I don't think the case has ever looked better.

Any help on the lume and second hand?

Thanks guys,

Jack