prb

Chinese movement factories do indeed sell movements for OEM assemblers, but there may be some movements that they don't offer for use outside their own brand. Either that or the people that usually do no-name tourbillons dont think it will be profitable to sell double-tourbillons. The demand for such a high end complication without a brand name could be relatively low, especially relative to the price of the movement. In theory, sure it is easy to just slap on a couple gears and a cage for another tourbillon. In practice, there are difficulties in manufacturing and assembly that may prohibit it. If a single tourbillon has reliability issues, two tourbillons could have well over double the failure rate.

Might want to read Francisco's movement review http://www.rwg.cc/topic/112704-a-review-of-the-movement-of-iwc-regulateur-reps/

Pretty sure the factories that are capable of building this movement are gonna keep it exclusive to their own brands to build prestige

Also, lower quality construciton, fit and finish, and QC. But some of them are great watches for a low price.

Wow, I'm surprised how many people dont like the design. I had the feeling most of the gen world was very enthusiastic about the design (see Fratellowatches, aBlogtoRead etc). I think it's a beautiful design with great details and a great impact and would pick one up ASAP if they repped it.

Is it just me or does the v5 PO have kind of obnoxious AR? Really blue but doesnt seem to cut reflections that much?

GMT hand is 24 hr?

If you're going to go franken, go swiss or asian clone. Those will be compatible with the gen hands. However, if you plan on swapping in a gen movement too, or a new swiss movement, might as well get the asian dg movement. If you're not going to bother modding the hands, go with the asian dg. It is a very reliable movement, and very cheap to source ($25) and replace (maybe $50?). A replacement asian clone is probably more like $100 for just the movement. Replacement swiss, needless to say, is much more.

You need to take a rock and put a big scratch in the back. Liberate yourself from the mental prison and be free!

Well said Chief! Love the watch, not the brand!

Ugh... I'm sorry. That one smacks of cheap badge engineering to me. either way, haven't seen one in rep form

I just saw these pics from a recommended dealer on another forum's site: Judging by the short AP logo at 12, this isn't an MBW/MBK version (the logo is too short on this example, it doesn't span 3 vertical squares, whereas on the MBW/MBK version the applied logo is of the proper height). Yet the bracelet seems to taper into the lugs as they should i.e. no step. If this is indeed the current state of the chinese AP RO Jumbo replication, I think it might be worth it. Anyone have one of these or handle one before and can speak to its quality? http://www.marvellousreplica.com/Product_Detail.aspx?ProductID=210107021718

I haven't. I'm trying to decide a few things before committing to one, i.e. in some pics the Jumbo appears to have a rather harsh transition from bracelet to case (which oddly looks better on the gold versions), trying to figure out if that's actually the case. Plus the hands on the 36mm are amazing... Just in general, I like the 36 more, but its so small! And then there's the MBW vs. Chinese decision, which is kinda the goal of this thread I guess?

Anyone have experience with the AP RO Jumbo? The non MBW version (which apparently is very well built). Its a beautiful piece and accurate enough for me, but its frustrating buying reps that show up and feel cheap, flimsy, and rough.

Dials are supposedly VERY hard to refurbish. I'm all for DIY, but thats one thing i would DEFINITELY send out to have done for me. http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/Budget_Watch_Collecting/Selecting_a_watch "1. Dial condition--It is very difficult to improve the appearance of most watch dials. They are designed to be protected, and anything strong enough to remove dirt is also likely to remove markings or coatings. Sometimes spot cleaning with a toothpick can reduce some marks, but it is just as likely to make things worse. Watch dials can be "redialed"--This is basically repainted. Quality can range from very good (although rarely as good as the original) to very obviously re-painted. Prices begin at $20 or so, not counting removing the dial and shipping."

There's also a sec @ 6 a21j model that robert from puretimewatchcompany used to carry.

Is it really seagull and not the hangzhou factory or something?

Check this link, it contains a video explaining how to shorten the stem http://repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=44969&highlight=dg4813

Thanks. I've recently fallen in love with an Hublot and can't justify the money on a second Panerai when I already have a 44mm homage I've building up. The 253 is very special, but its still roughly the same shape as a lumi and I feel that slot in my watchbox is already well filled 1. Valerian 2. petem (2 crystals) 3. BigE 4. Chudd 5. Paulw 6. Repwatch 7. Bosk 8. Nakortheblue 9. Rickhic 10. Z3k0 (2 crystals) 11. panerisiti(2) 12. jcrry (2 or 3 crystals) 13. Pabler 14. Lanikai (2 or more crystals) 15. Sidedish 16. cbd21(2) 17. Slan93 18. Cchrono 19. Deniz21 20. Bynico92 21. Ewing 22. Kioske 23. Jimmynugent 24. Fishgodeep(2 crystals) 25. Suzuki 26. Cdigi 27. Mann 28. Colorao 29. Fitipaldi 30. opcrown 31. btocamelo 32. PrDubis 33. Yousif1980 34. Psycho 35. Rytox 36. Hooky 37. Maars 38. burrppp

Any update on the status? I think i may have to pull out of the group buy.

In your opinion then, would it be better to go with a V3 or V4?

So confusing. If the factories come out with a sapphire version 253, I'll go with that route, seeing as how I haven't actually bought a 253 yet.

What about this one? http://www.puretimewatch.com/product/pam253-regatta-best-edition-updated/ whats the difference between the V3 above and this one?

As far as I can work it out, this is how it goes: V1: Old version, unavailable now. A decent first attempt, but had some major flaws. V2: Perhaps available, but not easy to track. A good replication, but subdial border is too deep and broad, CG is poorly machined and doesn't fit the case well (even inhibiting chronograph functioning), and the "10" in the 3 o'clock subdial is printed in a serifed font (whereas the gen is sans serif) V3: Available now. Overall, fixes the subdial border and "10" serif problem from the V2, but the CG is visually off (looks like a D). http://puretimewatch.com/product/pam253h-v3-on-rubber-sport-strap/ Best/updated: Available now. Includes the subdial and "10" serif fix as per V3, and also has an updated CG that no longer looks like a D. Perhaps this is the V2 with updates? http://puretimewatch.com/product/pam253-regatta-best-edition-updated/ Have I got this straight? Looks like the best buy right now is the updated V3?