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panerai-ss

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Posts posted by panerai-ss

  1. Great effort Davidsen and thank you for the continous improvement.

    The 6's & 9's should be shaped like this.

    mainphp.jpg

    I would love also to see the correct 6 and 9 on the dial. This is very obvious points on the dial which will make the dial unique and stand out from others.

  2. I have this rep dial just like in the piture below in my spare part. It look exactly like the watch below. If you interesting, we can discuss further. However, it is the rep dial with standard lume. So the lume is not that good. If you want the bright lume, you will need to get it further done by one of the mod masters.

    DSCN1783.jpg

  3. Look really good, rolli. This is exaclty the watch I have in mind and also plan to build it like this. Only thing I would like to have is the DSN case with engraved on it. The crown and CG look really good. Congrats for a beatiful watch you have. You always do good job and result in good watch. Wear it well.

  4. hi,

    you can buy it from davidsen.

    i've bought from him only the dial, hands and caseback.

    i would my own pvd case and a gen unitas movement.

    cheers

    rolli

    I think Rolli is by far the best and the master of PVD so far. He really works with PVD maker on this. I wish I could have PVD maker like this locally. Maybe will need your help someday, Rolli.

    It is much better than original davidsen offer. I would like davidsen to work more on PVD. I think your is maybe not quite a PVD, maybe it is DLC, dimond like coating. That is why the surface look exactly gen because it is the same process as gen.

    Cannot be better. Great watch.

  5. Yours still running OK after 2 years? Mine (2 months old) has the hour hand lagging already. Visually, it's a stunningly accurate rep. The correct hand stack movement (modified 2836-2) is a hit-or-miss. It's still worth buying esp buying it the cheapest you can, i.e. from Wo-mart, $183 after WU fee. The case, the bezel, the crystal height, the bracelet, the correct hand stack, the date font, date window, cyclop are perfect. The dial is good enough. The CGs need a little sanding and the crown needs to be replaced ($55 for a new gen and aftermarket tube). That's about all you need to do to make it visually perfect. When it breaks down, get another one and move the movement over. I'm getting a watchsmith in ShenZhen, China when I go back on vacation in April to see if the modified movement can be simplified to give more reliability. Getting rid of the one-hour jump mechanism may help.

    - bm

    Yes, it still works properly. But as I said it does not get much wrist time. But everytime it is ok. All the hands position correctly and not stripping movement. It works quite good when I make a trip aboard. The GMT hand really help to keep the home time and the local time so I don't get lost of feeling at home. I don't know much of the mod of Rolex and your information here is very helpful an useful. I should start to be more active in the Rolex rep beside Panarai that I am doing now.

    Cheers.

  6. I have a 2893 EXP II. Hand stack is wrong, but I love that movement. Compared to my quartz Nike Altimeter watch, it loses about 30 seconds per month.

    Climb on.

    I have EXP II white dial with the correct hand stack and the hour hand can set one-hour jump. I think the gen one, hour hand also jumps one hour at a time. I got it from local dealer who told me it is special modified and available in limited quantity. I dont' know what the movement model is since it is very hard to open the back of Rolex. It costs me US$300 2 years ago. That time I just started with the rep. I still keep it till now and love it very much and use it occationally. At the moment I am on Panerai most of the time. But for special occasion, this EXP II is on my wrist.

  7. To replace standard cannon pin on high canno pin, it is quite easy task. The Zigmeister used to post his instruction and I follow that and so far I have work on 7 watch on my own. Davidsen offer the high cannon pin at a very resaonable price. I got 8 from him so far.

    In addition to make the minute hand flush with the pin, you can also do that without high cannon pin on those base 2 hand models like PAM 009, PAM 000. Doing this the hour hand will seat quite close to dial. But afte finish it does not look bad at all. You must come very close to the watch and sometimes even need the magnificant glass to see it. This will save some cost. With those 3 hands models, this will not work because the hour hand and second hand will interfere each other.

    To gride of the minute hand is quite easy. You can start off from the rough filing and end with the #800 or #1200 sand paper. This will make it smooth. But if you cannot do this work or made mistake, Davidsen also offer the capped hand which is ready to use without grinding.

    So look in The Zigmeister post to see if he still keep the instruction up there.

    Good luck.

  8. What you guys discuss about is very useful? I am also try to find out if the Dave's capped hands can go with normal cannon pin or it needs the long cannon pin. If it can go with normal cannon pin, then all those watches out there can upgrade easily. My conclusion is that it will need the long cannon pin anyway. So if we want the pin and hand flush, then we have to do 2 upgrades 1) change to the high cannon pin, 2) use the capped hand.

    Confirm me if this is right. Correct me if this is wrong. So I can choose the right choice from 1st time.

    Thanks.

  9. I think the Swiss 212 is still not worth the price. The movement should have done better on detail especially the spinning line on plate which is too obviouse the difference. The dial fonts is too white on rep but the gen one is obviously green. I think 212 is still lack too many detail that too easy to identify.

    I never experience the gen one but someone told me even with the Swiss 212, the flyback function is not the same as the gen one. Anyone knows this please give some more detail.

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