kritz

ok

so I picked up a spare 212 for parts to try to repair my 212.

after I got into it, i noticed they were completly different.

Basically, i'm looking to swap out a stem from what appears to be an eta into an asian 7750. (I think it is a 7750)

I was looking to move a decorated mass from one to the other. After getting them apart it was clear they are not interchangeable.

The cases are clearly different as the case backs are NOT interchangable ....

so here is my question....

how to install the stem?????

I know i need to push the small button when i install the stem ....

but it doesn't seem to lock - when rotating it, it appears to wind, but it doesn't move the hands.

(even if I pull it out a little)

maybe it isn't long enough? How to lengthen? is the crown attached via a screw coupling?

maybe it needs to be pushed in More to get it to lock in?

is there a guide about installing a stem???? it appears there is an annular [censored] - is this what the mechanism grips onto when the botton is pushed?

I just set everything to 12:00. But it is only necessary if you are removeing the hands.

Yes, there is a small button to "gently" press.

Inserting, is just reverse of what you did to remove.

thanks!

I know there is a small push button or screw tha needs to be engaged.

Do the hands need to be in a particular orientation?

how about re-inserting - any tricks?

I opened my broken 212 flyback - the stem broke at the crown.

I got the movment out and the broken portion of the stem.

I don't expect i could get a stem for a CN 7750.

So i was wondering - are replacements available?

Is it tough the change the hands from one movement to another?

I found one on ebay that appears to be a advertising an original, but is clearly a CN movement.

The CN movement seems so fragile ....

Is a real ETA "less fragile" - this is the first automatic movement i have seen close-up.

Cheers sssurfer!

Anyway, be very careful with reducing compounds. Platings are always thin and they go off rather easy. So - touching the case with a reducing compund might reduce the oxidized copper, but it might also start other reactions in the low quality rose gold plating... So you might end up with a totally damaged watch with a totally uneven finish... take care!

Maybe you should carry it to a good jeweller, he can maybe tell you what to do on such a plated watch.

The stuff I am thinking about will de-oxidize as opposed to etch with acid.

That said - i'd find some green copper around town and try it out - bet you can find some in Rome ...

I was writing while you posted, austria!

Great minds think alike...

Bet it copper .... i do have a thought on how to get rid of the stain ...

bit of a risk though .... so be careful ...

there is liquid out there to remove oxidation from silverware.

Not the old rub puddy Mom used, but a liquid - Tarnex is a brand name in the USA.

Gold doesn't oxidize - copper will - this stuff will "de oxidize" silver metal.

It has been years since chemisrty - and I don't know whats in it - only its function ...

But who knows what is in your plating? - i would be REALLY careful and try a q-tip on only a VERY small area.

Found this, hope usefull,

http://www.tztoolshop.com/page133.html

Regards,

Mig/

Does the "remote second hand" require an extension to be used with a sandwich dial?

Could you describe jimmy's crystal in more detail. I bought a crystal from jimmy a year ago for a friend. At the time the crystal was advertised as sapphire but was tested by my watch smith to be mineral crystal. It had a hardness of 3.5 while sapphire has a hardness of 9. It also looked cheap, like clear glass to me, no A.R. what so ever. This was a year ago maybe he has changed his tune. I would really like to know what the experience is of other members on jimmy's crystal. BTW: His other parts are of marvelous quality..

I have bought all his parts for a project PAM, case, bezel, CG and palp crown and wanted to fit a davidsen crystal, but it won't fit jimmy's case. The davidsen crystal is 35.5 yet jimmy's case and bezel take a 36mm crystal. Only 0.5mm of difference but the gap is to great, the crystal flops right through the bezel.... I have two options.. to go with a all jimmy configuration (inc crystal)., or to keep the rep case with davidsen crystal...

I was going to buy from x-jewelry - The page said it is crystal!

I am not an expert on this subject but what I know about crystal installation is that the crystal don't simply pop in.

Crystals fit very tight to the bezel, this is needed for the watch to be waterproof under pressure. The crystals fit so tight that they need to be pressed using a crystal press. You also need some skill and experience to select the right dice for the crystal you are going to install, further more you need to be able to align the crystal perfectly to the bezel. My watch guy charges about 20 euro to do the job, I guess the most will charge similar.

If you want to do it yourself because you like tinkering with watches and plan to make this a serious hobby first invest in a good crystal press and practice on some cheap watches and only attempt to replace your PAM crystal if you can accept the consequences of ruining a hand, a dial or a crystal... If the replacement of your crystal is a one timer take it to your watch guy...

Here another members experience on D.I.Y. crystal replacement, the right tools and some comments by an experience d watch smith... Hope it helps.

http://www.rwg.cc/members/index.php?showto...l=crystal+press

wow - thanks

I scratched my mineral crystal pretty bad -

I found what is supposed to be a sappire one at a reasonable price....

maybe I ought to wait until I can find a proper pinion - and do it all at once.

Thanks again

I'm about to buy a crystal for a Pam 111h.

I have see the instructions on how to pop out the old one.

I assume the new one will "pop" in also.

do I need some type of adhesive to hold it in??

Does anyone sell a see throughcaseback for 44mm PAMS with an automatic movement?

I recieved a 212 flyback a few months ago from ioffer .... (scary)

Anyway, it has a solid caseback with spelling errors

I can feel the rotor move inside ....

right now anything see through will do ....

Is, as I suspect, the caseback is different for an automatic vs a hand wind 111?

Thanks for the HELP ....