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forrestal

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Posts posted by forrestal

  1. I have 3 genuine crowns and they all take 1.1 mm stem, the reps that I've had take .9 anyhow I have both sizes, Forrestal, if you want I can send you one of each so you'll be sure to get the right size.

     

    Many thanks, but I have already ordered  a 0.90 stem and a new  8 mm.  Minh. crown.  My old NDT crown is now unusable because the stem is broken within....Thanks to all for your prompt replies.....

  2. Unfortunately, this morning my 6538 has fallen and the stem of the crown is broken!
    can someone  tell me what stem I get for a NDT Rolex 8 mm. crown ? my 6538 has a Rolex 1030 mov. There are two stem for 1030 mov. 0.90mm thread stem (part 6946) and 1.10mm thread stem (part 6947). Which one is for my 8 mm. crown?

  3. Arrived yesterday from Andrew my new acquisition: the PAM. 360 Paneristi edition. I am really very happy: this replica is almost identical to the genuine. The pvd/dlc is really amazing, the best I've ever seen on a replica. Dial perfect, dazzling lume. Even the strap is really nice and close to the gen., both in the building in shades of skin color.

    Enjoi some pics:p :

    DSCF019.jpg

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    DSCF0018.jpg

    DSCF0016.jpg

    DSCF0011.jpg

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    lume.jpg

    Comparison between DSN 202a new pvd case, pam. 360 H factory and genuine pam.009 lett.A:

    DSCF0012.jpg

    DSCF0019.jpg

    Pam.360 and gen. Pam. 009 lett. A side to side :D

    DSCF0005.jpg

    DSCF0003.jpg

    DSCF0010.jpg

    • Like 1
  4. I'm trying to find out some info about the Tropic 17 and 19 Crystals. According to the rolex reference sheet, the Tropic 17 fits models 5510,6200,6538,7924 and the Tropic 19 fits models 5512,5513,6528A. 6540.

    Searching for a Tropic 17, but they seem to be as scarce as "Hens Teeth" and expensive, while the tropic 19 is more readily available. On one of the other Rolex forums, a member stated that the 17 and 19 are interchangable, the 19 is however taller. Is that correct? Are the two the same OD, but the 19 is taller?

    Thanks very much,

    The T19 is larger then T17. I have tried to fit it on my 6538(NDT case) but the bezel insert don't fit because it is too tight. The T19 glass fit on 6538A, a military assigned reference...

    Here is my 6538 with aftermarket T17 glass

    DSCF0025.jpg

  5. I post you a comparison between gen. pam. pvd and DSN old and new pvd case. The watches are my gen. A 009, DSN 202A old pvd case (with capecod treatment and FGD dial) and new DSN pvd pre-A 004

    left gen. 009, center DSN 202A, right pre-A DSN 004. The gen. pvd case is darker and shiny compared with DSN

    DSCF0005.jpg

    left DSN 202A, center gen. 009a, right DSN pre-A 004

    DSCF0001.jpg

    left gen. 009 , right DSN pre-A 004

    DSCF0004.jpg

    DSCF0022.jpg

    Top gen. 009, center DSN 202A, bottom DSN pre-A 004

    DSCF0026.jpg

    DSCF0025.jpg

    Top gen. 009, bottom DSN pre-A004

    DSCF0011.jpg

    DSCF0017.jpg

  6. We discussed here about how a Josh 1655 would be a good candidate for a 1675 project. In fact, a couple of members, including Star69 has already built a 1675 from the 1655.

    Even though it isn't 100% complete, I thought that I would give an update on my 1655 conversion to a 1675 Cornino.

    Of course, the most distinctive feature of the 1675 Cornino is the pointed crown guards. I could not find any references of how the crown guards would look underneath the bezel assembly and I thought that Rolex would just not file the crown guards to a point. I believe that the they had to be sculpted, in that the CG curves and blends with the case. So the case visited the chiman CG spa and here are the results...

    P1013765.jpg

    While I was sculpting the CGs, I also softened the edges of the case

    I purchased a bezel assembly from ewatchparts.com, afterall it was the cheapest. Needless to say, you get what you pay for, because the bezel insert sucked, it looked like paint didn't completely transfer onto the insert and the bezel didn't have a pronounced coin edge. Oh well, both can be fixed easily. The mag on the rep crystal was a bit weak, so I installed a Sterny 116

    P1013783.jpg

    For the dial, I chose an NDT gilt chapter ring dial. I wanted to do something different to the dial and I really like the looks of my Tudor California dial, but I can't seem to find the original post discussing the dial. But in any case, here it is...

    P1013786.jpg

    I want the same pebble effect as my California dial. I think it turned out really well, but Rolex purists would say otherwise. I accomplished the finish by spraying the dial with clear matte Kryon finish and I then proceed to get a folded up paper towel and dabbed at the dial to soak up the excess finish until I got the desired effect.

    The only GMT movements that I see in reps are the gen, modified ETA, or Asian GMT movements. I did a lot of research on GMT movements and decided upon this for my project...

    P1013794.jpg

    It is a Zodiac 75B and a pure GMT movement. In fact, the size of the GMT post on the 75B is the same size as the gen Rolex GMT hand, while the minute, hour, second hands are all ETA spec. In addition, the date flips exactly in the same direction as the 1575, so I used a gen-like date wheel from wholesaleoulett990 as an overlay for my project. But, once again, I strayed a little bit from the norm and installed a roulette wheel...

    P1013784.jpg

    But there was a slight snag in my project that I had to overcome. When I applied the wholesaleoutlet overlay on top of the original date wheel, the combo was too thick and the date wheel was rubbing against the dial and didn't flip properly. The solution? I flipped the dial rest around and the problem went away! You can see the edge of the dial rest in the pic and the date wheel now flips without any problems. So why did this work? When you install a dial back onto a movement, you'll notice that the edge of the dial rest actually receeds a bit into the dial rest groove. By flipping the dial rest around, it no longer receeds into the groove and you get that additional bit of space for the date wheel to flip properly.

    I'm currently aging the hands, in addition I broke my small GMT hand so I need to source another one, but here are a few pics with the watch put together without hands, but it does have the proper 5.3mm crown...

    P1013792.jpg

    P1013790.jpg

    P1013789.jpg

    I would say that this project is 75% complete. I need to change out the bezel insert for a better one, most likely a faded gen and I'll fix the bezel so it has a more pronounced coin edge. I also discovered that the Sterny 116 cyclope was off to one side. I checked with CousinsUK and Sterny sells two different versions of 116's, so I'll grab the other one and see if it fixes the problem. I'll also touch up the insides of the CG's a bit and slap on a nice Yuki rivet bracelet on it

    I'll post an update once I get the watch completed.

    Good work!

  7. I finally completed my new 6538 project:D

    gen. Rolex cal. 1030 mov.

    NTD set case

    NTD gilt and glossy 2 line dial

    Yuki set golden hands

    gen insert pearl

    gen. springbars

    NTD vintage rivett bracelet

    Real Bond Nato Strap modified by me

    Enjoi the pics:

    JamesTux2.jpg

    bond-goldfinger-strap-big.jpg

    1030mov.jpg

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    DSCF0010.jpg

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  8. Dear friends,

    I would like to submit a problem that is giving me a very hard time. I'm working on a project for the construction of a 6538 Rolex "James Bond". I've got a genuine Rolex cal.1030 movement and dial (from NTD), so I ordered a set case 6538 by Yuki. And here the nightmare started. The case came to me with many flaws: overall build somewhat crude, renhaut too wide, wrong look from the back, inner groove for securing the movement too low .... in short, I returned the case to it and I was refunded. So I decided to buy the set from NTD case (which is more expensive than Yuki). Upon arrival of the case (very well done, at first sight), yesterday, I have another surprise: the gen. 1030 movement does not enter into the case! the inner diameter of the case that should go through the movement seems too narrow, so the movement don't "entry" in the case. I wrote this morning to inform NTD for the problem. Awaiting your response, I would to say if someone had the same problem and how to solve it. I'm really angry .... For months I'm going crazy about this watch. It 's a watch that I have always loved, but I'm starting to hate him!

    Yet Yuky and NTD ensure that their cases are compatible with the gen. mov. 1030!!!!

    Does anyone have any suggestions ?

    I send you greetings and i wish you a happy weekend (I now have irreparably ruined mine) :wounded1:

    This is the pics of inner NTD case:The arrow indicates the ring too tight

    DSCF0010-1.jpg

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