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theblueprince

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Posts posted by theblueprince

  1. Gen 16520's and 116520's have been coming down in price for a year or so now so it's not worth going down the franken 16520 route anymore.

     

    Franken 62xx is the way to go. I have a franken 6265 with gen everything apart from case and movement (obviously movement is a V726) and all in it's cost me about $7000 or about 20-25% of the cost of gen which is a pleasing ratio and far better bang for buck than say spending $4000 on a  franken SubC that a gen of would be $6000.

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  2. Best rep Daytona experts change the main plate too with a 727 stamped one.

     

    Yeah I figured....there's only so long you can stare at movement pics though and I couldn't see anything obvious. Like I said though the best experts who've handled hundreds of these over a lifetime of buying/selling/owning them will likely tell in an instant and I'd def get it checked by one of them if the seller is not a known good guy or respected trader who will back it unconditionally.

  3. So is the movement stamped 72, 726, 72C or 727 on the baseplate?

     

    Edit - Closer look and can see it's 727. Checking against ref pics it all looks OK. 

     

    If you're spending that much money though then first buy the seller and second get it checked out by a real expert, not us armchair interweb hobbyists  ;)

  4. Yes, use a TC case, you are safe to use WU with him, he is a trusted seller/dealer.

     

    TC doesn't use ETA though, he has his owner movement supplier.

     

    A TC Sub is $585 I think

     

    New ETA movement will be $225 ish

    Gen dial $400

    Gen crystal $250

    Gen insert $150

    Gen crown $100

     

    So total about $1700, you will probably be able to sell the TC dial, insert, movement, crystal for about $300 but need someone to put it all together which i guess would be about $150.

     

    So total about $1500 using decent correct model gen parts.

     

    It will be cheaper if you use worn or scratched parts that won't look as good.

  5. The Pepsi insert looks Gen.

    Crappy printing from worn out equipment is how fuzzy, fat number sub inserts were born.

    The method behind inserts is complete different from dials, and you can find examples where several numbers touch the inside, or even outside. Not the first time I've mentioned this, and I'm not the only one, but it is a minority of 'experts' that recognize them for what they are. Most call them Mk 1s, and the sharper bezels Mk 2s, 3s and maybe 4s, but the reality is the sharper ones are older, and they get fatter as the equipment wore out. So they have it backwards.

    Looks like you have quite the collection of parts already, enjoy your voyage.

     

    This also affected the 6263 bezels causing slightly differing font size and style on what are supposedly the same "mark" of bezel.

     

    Also, way back when these things were made machine and printing tools were set by hand and thus would not produce 100% identical copies of parts in each diffeent production run which also accounts for slight variances and probably the differences between some "marks".

     

    Collectors/dealers who have handeld 100's/1000's of parts like this agree with the above, esepecially those who have been around the parts since they were new way back when.

     

    Looking at the net and the books and deciding that a certain mark or style of insert must exactly match the example given is not the right way to go, it's a guide and there will be slight differences.

     

  6. I understand some of the responses to my comment above and see where you guys are coming from. I would agree that the average guy on the rep forums with for example 1000 posts and 3 years "experience" knows a lot more than the average gen owner on TRF with same stats. It's the really knowledgeable guys on TRF and VRF that make the difference though i think. They're certainly not the loudest and indeed are often pretty quiet but they are there and in my experience they have been welcoming and helpful when approached for advice. 

     

    I started using TRF a few years ago and then quit because of the chumps/muppets that were there talking crap. It does indeed get tiring and repetitive. I started using the forum again though and took a new approach that yes a lot of it is "Awesome Sub!" type posts and there is a lot of "noise" but if you learn to apply a sort of quality filter once you know who's posts are worth reading then it becomes a lot more rewarding. 

  7. There are some chumps on there but there are also some very, very knowledgeable collectors and genuine Rolex experts/enthusiasts with decades of first hand experience owning, buying, selling, living, breathing all things Rolex. IMO there is absolutely more knowledge on TRF (and VRF) than on all the rep forums combined. Said people don't tend to say so much but they are there and will help you if you know where to look and what to ask. 

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