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Posts
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Posts posted by Tressles61
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Saw your post over on RG. Here's a little history for ya, just don't tell the missus.
Here's the post on VRF where the watch was bought:
Days earlier, the same exact watch was sold on ebay for $6000.00, and that included the original bracelet. So, the seller on VRF bought the watch for 6, took the bracelet for himself, added a 20 dollar nato and jacked the price three grand.
Good luck with it, and wear in the best of health
Gosh this post was really necessary wasn't it...
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Is there a rule for the depth of a watch? For example, I've fallen for the Ingy (42.5mm), but given my 6.5" wrists, not sure if its too thick (14.5mm). Any advice?
IMO I think 42.5 @ 14.5mm thick is perfect for a 6.5 wrist. My Skyland is 44mm wide and 18mm thick and it looks fricken good man! Note: if you wear long sleeves with tight cuffs 18mm won't fit under the cuff.
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I thought about getting a wallet again but I never use them when I get one. I typically just keep my cash all rolled up. The Paul Smith ones look kind of nice but I don't know how well a rep wallet would hold up being used all the time.
You've watched too many mobster movies...
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Update:
The Skyland Avenger worked out for me. Now I'm thinking anything below 41mm is too small! I think 45mm and down is about right - you guys were right on.
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Your question has been discussed for over en over on this forum. It all depends what you want from a watch. If you want to have a perfect working movement, then service is your choice. If you replace the movement, you still will have a movement which is dirty and not proper oiled and regulated.
I like that Blacksteel Skyland with the brown strap hooky. Where'd you get that strap?
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ISSUE RESOLVED!!!! FINALLY!
Pressed the pallet fork shaft down slightly to raise the pallet fork to the impulse stone, as the impulse stone was as low as it could go. Also found out the lower balance staff had busted and gotten stuck into the jewel cap assembly. This made it look the as if the staff was good and attached to the balance. Replaced the balance after the fork adjustments and the movement fired right up and ran like a thoroughbred in all positions!
Thanks for the help guys!
Well... I guess it's time you start doing repairs for board members.
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What is a good all around caseback removal tool that will work on Breitling as well as other watches? I'm hoping that I don't have to buy a specialty tool just for Breitlings.
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The Zigmeister is your guy. Look for his lume work on this site for examples of what he does!!
I have a few watches that I would like serviced, and lumed. What's Zigs email address - his PM is off. Also, I'm in the US - where is he located?
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Wouldn't submerse it at all unless you have it pressure tested. I'm also sure that no amount of normal work to that watch will ever allow it to survive 1000m! The genuine yes.. the rep... NO
Any ideas on where to get a rep pressure tested? I went by a local watch shop yesterday and inquired about a service and what the $$$ would be. He said between $200.00 and $300.00. I was stunned.
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It's supposed to be a super rep, it has a functional helium escape valve, and I have heard it's water resistant to 1000 feet. Has anyone tried (at the risk of killing the watch) submersing it?
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So why does this Ballon Bleu intrigue me so much?!
I find it strange and slightly ugly, yet somehow appealing?
Anyone else feel this way?
That's what women say about me. Maybe I should buy this watch...
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Thank you plaifender. All of the watches that I'm interested in are 45mm. I particularly like the Seamaster and they make a Pro that's 41mm. The 45.5mm does not look out of place on you so it should work for me too.
I should just go to a jeweler and try on a watch. I just can't look them in the eye cause they know what you're up to!
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My wrist measures 6.5". What's an appropriate watch size?
Datewheel Swap - 2813 Movement
in Watch Repair & Upgrade
Posted
I'm changing out a 2813 but I need to swap my old datewheel. I removed the top plate of the movement, the datewheel got bumped and some of the parts got jumbled.
I put it back how I think it goes back together, screwed down the top plate, loaded the u-shaped tensioner from the top. I then plugged the stem back in and set it to the date change position. It does click over like it should but I want to be certain before I start tearing into the new movement.
Does anyone have a picture of how it goes back together?