babola

Deffinitely not worth the $$, S/S case, fat dial numerals, xtal of questionable quality and origin - nah! Keep an eye on sale forums mate, the old-school 172 and 192s appear there from time to time, although at a premium cheers, babola

Higly likely, especially knowing the fact that more recent T dials (as well as L dials) come with base paint applied on dial indices and numerals, before the T lume is applied. A and B series gen T dials didn't have this underlayer, the Tritium was applied to the dial directly. I don't believe they apply this 'paint' layer inside the beds of metal markers, and the darker lume on markers compared to numerals could be very much the result of darker 'reflection' of the metal thru the lume itself. In general the lume being L or T is opaque, and as such will expose to an extent the base it's applied to. cheers, babola

Agree, and have you unoticed how the numerals on the 1000m Subs with T-dials are almost always lighter than dial markers...something I first noticed on 064 "La Bomba" and 087. It almost looks like they used different lume compound for numerals and metal edged fill-in indices, mind boggles... cheers, babola

Nice one W, the first ever Vendome-era Pam Sub, although part of a 'contemporary' Pam auto line, a truly historic piece, IMO. I believe their attempt was to create a hommage to Egiziano, but still keeping high-polished finish of the recent historics . Is the lume the same color/shade as your recently done 27A ? Wear it in good health, babola

Yup, it's a gen allright. Wear it well! babola

Nice watch, shame for the recessed cannon pin, though. babola

It actually isn't the lever that needs centering as it's already centered against the middle of the crown, it's the top side of the CG - this simply needs to be thicker. If you move the lever, you end up with two 'thin' sides (top and bottom), not as good look as you'd expect, and the two screw holes would end up being out of alignment. Remember, the screw holes are lined up with the lever, for a correct geometrical and visual fit against the case and the crown itself. Also, the lever wouldn't be centered against the crown anymore. On good reps (old-school and Jimmy Fu case sets) the lever tip is positioned right smack against the middle of the crown plate. babola

Yeah, it appears to be a major challenge to overcome...FFlav tried this in the past unsucessfuly, he sent his gen CG to 'potential' makers in Germany, US and China, so far neither managed to create that prominent 'flare' at the middle where lever pin sits. Not sure why this is such a problem for them, but according to Flav it's got to do with unique H-series CG geometry with curve from top down and gradual flare from inside out. When compared with the gen H-series CG, the repped ones would be miles off, so the whole 'project' got put on hold. @p550racer 201/A CG also has the curve in the middle, but not as noticeable as on H-series. Also, it doesn't flare from inside out, so quite possibly should be easier to replicate. cheers, babola

All the mov'ts including Asian and Swiss ETA 6497-1/-2 come with high cannon pin / hour wheel set now, actually they have been for some 6-9 months now. So no worries re short cannon pins on new reps. The only ones still possible to recieve with short cannon pin set are those reps with OPI/II mov'ts with square bridges, like the ones that come in 000/001/002/036/061 etc. cheers, babola

Goes without saying...although sadly many still miss this little but important fact... babola

Very nice...carefully selected, thoughtfuly modded! Keepers for sure babola

I use watchmakers' putty ('Blue Tack' should suffice in absence of aforementioned) on the top of the flat-top toothpick for that tricky part. The trick is to use only small piece of putty, if too big you will have problem removing the 'pusher' without lifting the second hand from the stem again. With transparent tape (I assume it's sellotape or something similar that you use) you run into a risk of removing that thin layer of white paint from the middle circle area arond the pin hole. I've seen so many "modded" watches that come with scratched/damaged second hand pain in the middle. Good luck ! cheers, babola

Yet another amazing lume job by our resident artist Wear it in good health! babola

As far as I know the stock rep crown tube will require a bit of remoddeling to fit the gen auto crown. The Zigmeister springs to mind since he's installed gen auto crowns in 29 and 63 reps for few members here. Kruzer could confirm this, of course. cheers, babola

Looking good Bruce - looking freaking good ! Hard to beat a nicely modded 112 Base, IMO enjoy it, babola

Bradski - good to see you back ! babola

Mate, Swiss ETA based E-series mov'ts are off limits as spare parts now. The supply of these (and H-series ultimate Swiss mov'ts) is so limited that even the rep factories aren't able to source enough of these for their E-series Swiss PAM reps. It seems that the production batches of these mov'ts are few and far between these days (at least this is the picture some dealers I keep in touch regularly, portray). I tried really hard sourcing one , but no joy... so ended up buying the cheapest PAM rep with the Swiss E-series ETA 6497-1 mov't to be able to get my hands on this now extremely valuable 'spare' part....well for us PAM rep purists, anyway - LOL! cheers, babola

Yeah...recessed cannon pin, but the watch looks nice cheers, babola

You reckon rep manufacturers should buy that CG...and finaly produce a decent H-series rep CG....LOL! Anyway, looking at some details there, it's funny how the finish on many of them somehow doesn't stack up to that "Gen PAM finish is waaay better than rep"...hmm, makes you wonder, doesn't it. That mov't is a real beauty, I must say. I know the guy who posted this on the Bay (actually many here know and remember him very well)...the whole thing is just part of an experiment to see how much more (or less ) $$ could PAM bring to it's owner if sold in parts compared when sold as a fully assembled watch Let's see how it goes from here :-) cheers, babola

Cool mate, let's see how it all pans out from here. There are simply too many factors influencing the final result that are outside of our (all of us here included) reach and control, unfortunatelly. Let's just hope for the best, and that the final product won't be plagued with those little (but important) bits that somehow got "lost in translation" from project initiators to project finishers. Fingers crossed babola

@archibald...I don't think we're on the same page re the particulars I mentioned above, so I I don't intend to push it any further. ;-)

Pamman, were both on the same page regarding this "issue". I have raised it with DSN as soon I saw his first prototype 201/A dial a week ago...it's hard to miss it. Enzo's graphic shows correct spacing of the numerals and indices relative to the edge of the dial. Somehow that original drawing got "lost in translation" before the dial maker CNC'd the indices. DSN is aware of this, whether or not he still has enough time to do something about it is another matter altogether. I also believe the dial txt and logo is good but somehow without that crispness of the original, the letters on 201/A are missing that sharp edge, 202/A txt is better. At least the cracked quazi-vintagized dial txt is now gone Let's keep the discussion going, afterall that's what DSN asked for in his original post. cheers, babola

Just following from what I learned from Socko over at 'risti. He's collected them all (except 95 I believe) and claims all are waterproof. I double checked my photo archives, and yep - 90, 99 both come with 'Kodiak' imprinted on the underside, meaning they're both waterproof cheers, babola

Looking much better I'd go with plain leather PAV style straps, 90, 91, 98 and 99, waterproof if possible to be closer to the original. Instead of 115/85 how about more standardized lenghts like 120/75 or 125/80 ? We're slowly getting there ! babola

Stylish and British? Yeah, I miss those good old days, eh...:-)