calatrava

Hand blued screws are considered an upgrade in a good movement, so the Chinese movement manufacturers started using chemical blueing or paint to mimic the look.

None of the mechanical alarms are particularly melodic (all the ones I know under $10K, like the JLC Memovox and the Vulcain Cricket, buzz), and you're not going to find a cheap mechanical petite sonnerie or minute repeater with (or without) a display caseback. If you want something that alarms without a buzzing sound, then your only choice in your price point is quartz.

Thanks, I just placed an order for a Navy Blue Zulu strap for the Arctic Ocean.

Different movements require different turns per day to keep them wound. Some also are bidirectional winders vs. unidirectional winders. An ETA 2836 should have a TPD set between 650-800, bidirectional.

To put that failure rate into perspective, the Aramar Arctic Ocean Snowflake homage with a top grade ETA 2824-2 had at least 2 dead movements out out a batch of 100.

Some photos of my Arctic Ocean, together with the Ocean Vintage Military and a gen Black Bay.

There is the Noob Factory JLC Navy SEALs Diver watch. and Puretime is working with a rep factory on a Ultrathin Tribute to 1931 Reverso.

I would be interested in two 6 watch boxes shipped to California, USA.

All the SW200 based Nautiluses are from the same factory, and are distinguished by the custom datewheel overlay, which allows them to place the data window right by the edge of the dial. The only difference is whether the watch comes with the older custom shaped rotor (with a Calatrava cross decal), or the newer model with a regular shaped rotor but a better Calatrava cross. For me, I prefer the one with the custom shaped rotor.

I sold my Davidsen sterile Fifty Fathoms and just placed an order for a new 42mm Helson Skindiver, with the sapphire crystal and sapphire bezel.

I would be interested in one as well. I'm currently on the waiting list for the Arctic Ocean.

Revolution Magazine has decided to honor the Tudor Heritage Black Bay with Best Watch Design, and the Tudor Pelagos with Ultimate Value in the 2012 Revolution Awards. Both watches are made exceptionally well, with very precise bezel actions, and very well made bracelets. In general, the fit and finish on both watches is very good. The ceramic bezel with lume infused markers on the Pelagos is a very nice touch, as is the innovative clasp that allows for tool-free micro-adjustments (like a Glidelock clasp) together with a spring loaded mode that automatically adjusts to changes in the thickness of your wet suit due to changes in depth. On the Black Bay, the clasp lacks the tool-free micro-adjustments, but uses the more traditional spring bar based system that is seen on the older Submariners. The clasp uses spring loaded ceramic ball bearings to secure the latches, which is very secure, yet very smooth in its operation. Having said this, these are two very different watches. The Pelagos is quite possibility the ultimate value in serious no-nonsense dive watches, and everything about it, from the matte finishing on the bracelet and case, matte dial, luminous bezel and large hour markers and snowflake hands, and the innovative clasp, are designed with a diver in mind. It is however extremely understated, and if you're looking for a bit of bling and flash in your tool watches, then you might be rather disappointed. Some people have commented that the watch doesn't look expensive, but I think that reflects the design choices that focus on a no compromise tool watch (without shiny and polished parts), and does not reflect on the quality of execution. There is a nice discussion of the Pelagos, with some nice photos here: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f23/my-new-tudor-pelagos-lots-pics-727526.html The Black Bay is an attempt to evoke the feel of a vintage watch, but in a modern sized watch, with modern levels of quality construction and execution. I think collectors of vintage watches might be turned off by the faux vintage elements, like the burgundy bezel (intended to evoke the look of a faded bezel), rose gold surrounds on the hands and markers (intended to simulate patina), and the distressed leather strap. For me, I like the idea of a modern watch with a vintage feel, and a splash of color that gives it a rather unique character. I should note that even though the Black Bay uses an ETA 2824-2 movement, Tudor has modified it so that it is missing the middle stop that adjusts the date, since the watch does not feature a date. More generally, Tudor modifies their top grade ETA 2824-2 movements to replace the shock absorption with KIF, and the regulator with a Triovis fine-adjustment regulator. There's a nice review of the Black Bay: http://www.repgeek.com/showthread.php?t=196382 At the end of the day, I decided to keep the Black Bay because it's a fun watch that was relatively affordable for a watch with an excellent level of fit and finish, whereas the Pelagos was much too serious a dive watch that didn't fit well with my lifestyle. And now for some comparisons of the Tudor Pelagos and Black Bay with some Rolex watches. The Black Bay compared to the Rolex Ceramic Submariner 114060 The Pelagos compared with the SD and DSSD https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=247840 The photos from that thread for those who aren't TRF members. This is a photo comparing the Pelagos and BB, so you might place the above thread in context. Some other photo comparisons I found: Compared to a GMT IIC The BB on the different strap options

I would like a copy too. Thanks.

My replica collection has undergone some consolidation, and a few new additions in 2012, so I wanted to share the state of my replica collection at the end of 2012. Jaeger-LeCoultre Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Diving Navy SEALs (Noob, asian ETA clone) Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Tourbillon (Hangzhou 3301 co-axial tourbillon movement) Patek Philippe Patek Philippe Calatrava 3520D (quartz) Patek Philippe Calatrava 5107 (asian ETA clone) Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119 (asian manual wind movement) Patek Philippe Calatrava 5120/1G (Swiss ETA) Patek Philippe Calatrava 5127 (asian 21j automatic movement) Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 (Blue Dial, Sellita SW200-1) Vacheron Constantin Vacheron Constantin Overseas (Deep Stream, asian ETA clone) Vacheron Constantin Overseas (White Guilloche, Swiss ETA) Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Chronograph (Seagull ST19 movement) Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine (front) Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Contemporaine (back, asian ETA clone) Miscellaneous DSN Fifty Fathoms Homage (asian ETA clone) Panerai 111N (Noob V3, asian 6497 clone)

For all you AP fans, I present the Hello Kitty Royal Oak.