calatrava

Hand blued screws are considered an upgrade in a good movement, so the Chinese movement manufacturers started using chemical blueing or paint to mimic the look.

None of the mechanical alarms are particularly melodic (all the ones I know under $10K, like the JLC Memovox and the Vulcain Cricket, buzz), and you're not going to find a cheap mechanical petite sonnerie or minute repeater with (or without) a display caseback. If you want something that alarms without a buzzing sound, then your only choice in your price point is quartz.

I like your styles, sir. That blue is nice...

Thanks, I just placed an order for a Navy Blue Zulu strap for the Arctic Ocean.

Different movements require different turns per day to keep them wound. Some also are bidirectional winders vs. unidirectional winders. An ETA 2836 should have a TPD set between 650-800, bidirectional.

Happily the number of real flaws (dead / dyimg movements, hands come loose, markers come loose) are minimal, I think I've heard maybe 7 out of 400 delivered from the pre-release orders. Dunno how that compares to other mark 1 fresh releases, but it doesn't seem too bad to me.

To put that failure rate into perspective, the Aramar Arctic Ocean Snowflake homage with a top grade ETA 2824-2 had at least 2 dead movements out out a batch of 100. 

Some photos of my Arctic Ocean, together with the Ocean Vintage Military and a gen Black Bay.

There is the Noob Factory JLC Navy SEALs Diver watch.

and Puretime is working with a rep factory on a Ultrathin Tribute to 1931 Reverso.

I would be interested in two 6 watch boxes shipped to California, USA.

All the SW200 based Nautiluses are from the same factory, and are distinguished by the custom datewheel overlay, which allows them to place the data window right by the edge of the dial. The only difference is whether the watch comes with the older custom shaped rotor (with a Calatrava cross decal), or the newer model with a regular shaped rotor but a better Calatrava cross. For me, I prefer the one with the custom shaped rotor.

I sold my Davidsen sterile Fifty Fathoms and just placed an order for a new 42mm Helson Skindiver, with the sapphire crystal and sapphire bezel.

I would be interested in one as well. I'm currently on the waiting list for the Arctic Ocean.

I would like a copy too. Thanks.

For all you AP fans, I present the Hello Kitty Royal Oak.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas

Jaeger-LeCoultre Grande Reverso Duo

Rolex Submariner 114060

Baume and Mercier Hampton Annual Calendar

Patek Philippe Calatrava (fantasy model, looks similar to Patek Philippe 3939 minute repeater tourbillon)

Asian microrotor movement, 40mm diameter, 8.1mm thick.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5107.

Asian ETA 2824-2, 37mm diameter, 9.7mm thick.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5127.

Asian 21j movement, 37.6mm diameter, 9.4mm thick.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 3520D.

Quartz movement, 33.5mm diameter, 7.5mm thick (with domed sapphire crystal, 5.2mm with original flat crystal).

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119.

Asian manual-wind movement, 36mm diameter, 7.7mm thick.

Patek Philippe Calatrava 5120.

Quartz movement, 35mm diameter, 6.8mm thick.

Well, I guess the obvious question is what does A+ mean to you in terms of replica watches? As already mentioned, the watch is the incorrect size, which most people would consider to be a poor replica by definition, since it will come across as an obvious fake to people familiar with the brand. Wouldn't you be better off with a regular AP Royal Oak Jumbo, which at least is the correct size, and with the exception of the movement displayed in the display caseback, is a much more credible replica?

The question is : can we use the movement for a Nautilus ???

The 5711 has a regular rotor, and only the 5712 has a microrotor movement.

Yes, it's recently been serviced, and it's backed with a two year warranty by their Rolex certified watchmaker.

My wife just got a preowned Rolex Ladies Datejust President from a local jewelry store, and I was trying to get a second opinion about whether everything looks okay? It has an E serial number, which dates it as a 1990/1991 model.

I've got a watch that has been hanging out at the San Diego sort facility for the entire week.

I'm obviously the minority here, but I never intend to get a gen. Ever.

It just depends on the value you can give to your hobby. I can't justify paying $5k for a watch. Maybe this is because I've only recently made my way from middle class to upper class. I can however justify paying about $1k for ~4-5 good reps. I've worn my 45mm PO for about a month now and nobody has even noticed it, let alone questioning the authenticity.

I'm not the type that can keep my watches in good condition, so my resale value on a gen would be terrible.

The only factor that makes me want a gen is the fact that I can't put my rep anywhere near water..

What is your definition of upper class? The conventional definition used by sociologists refers to the top 1%, and I find it hard to believe that a person with an income and net worth in the top 1% would choose to buy replicas and never buy a gen.

Most of the people on the forum with a significant degree of disposable income have at least one gen watch, and satisfy their need for variety in their watch collection by rounding it off with replicas, and frankens. Surely you should be able to afford a nice gen watch that you can wear in water, and not have to worry about reselling, otherwise, what's the point of being wealthy?

This is a photo of the Omega logo on the crystal on my vintage De Ville. It really is very small, and it helps to have a loupe when you're looking for it. The guy who replaced the crystal clearly didn't realize it was there, so it was installed upside down.

Some more photos of the front and back dial.