FlipLockBuckle

The other problem is that there are no correct BPH movements with a GMT function. This is the reason why nobody has been able to replicate a 1675 correctly. This, of course, is good for OEM vintage collectors like me but no fun for those in the rep game.

I love my 1675!

o-fakes.com have a gmt with a 4 ticks per second asian movement, and it even has the correct handstack.

What if youd just take the movement out and use that for your frankenwatch project?

...exactly. The 1575 (Rolex GMT 1675) has only 18000 beats per hour, while an eta has 28800 beats per hour.

Maybe you would want to use a usual asian 4 ticks per second movement, to make your frankenwatch look more authentic.

hey buddy hows it hangin,

just wanted to tell ya yer in possesion of a very beautiful and nice watch, but im wondering about the oval-shaped markers ??? is it referable to a bad camera or is the dial just plain lame?

pmsl, the crownguards on the yatchie definetly do need a rework

Weird thing, just woke up and had to discover that the watch is running 5 minutes to fast.

Well its possible that i touched something when disassembling the movement...

Does anyone have an idea how i could regulate it again? Maybe with the little +/- screw?

any ideas appreciated

Hello friends,

I had a nice YM mith ETA movement which kept perfect time. After i did my CG work i noticed that i couldnt pull the stem anymore, so i tried to fix the whole thing. I dissasebled the "stem assembly" and reassembled it carefully with tweezers.

Im surprised that the stem is working now, i think the problem was that i pushed in the crown-pulling-trigger a little bit too hard and in this way screwed things up.

Anyway, stem is working perfectly again but now all the sudden the movement looses about 10 seconds a day.

Does anyone know how i could fix it, and what the heck the reason might be for this obscure phenomenon?

Thanx in advance, danny

Hello,

I recently purchased a YM from a trusted seller, and it came with submariner-crownguards (means edged and not rounded), so i modified them with my little dremel and this is the result.

Is it acceptable? Or are they still looking innacurate. Thanx in advance.

YM is fake, the space between the 3 and the 0 is too big, same on my timepiece.

The crownguard are too sharp, but they can be modded.

STAGE 2 IN PROGRESS:

I have ordered white-decal-paper and a laser printer with 4800dpi.

Will print a "Fliplockbuckle" decal on my rep dial and post the result here.

Its special high quality decal paper just like the one used in construction of model trains....letters will be 0.2 mm thick, so amazing results guaranteed.

Pictures will follow the day the paper arrives in the mail.

@NRG: Yes youre in As soon as im finished i will send you some decals for free.

Well I have a gen 16610 at my wrist right know, ill take this as an example ...well the only thing that is raised is the crown (maybe my eyes are just bad) but its just raised an itty bitty, so its even hard to determine, and i think a sharp and defined font with correct font (without drunken X) would be better than any refinished asian-hand-made-paintwork dial.

But if you'd know where to silk screen a dial or even if you had the possibility it would be the best i think....any ideas?

Hey friend, i have a Asian stem here that i don't need anymore.

I can send it to you at no charge, just give me a shout if youre intrested.

Hey friends,

I was just curious if someone knows how or where i can print little stickers, that you can put on the dial and who have no background...just like the ones you glue on little dinky cars.

You put the sticker on with the foil, then you can take the foil off and all there remains is the Text or whatever. Im sure you get my point.

I have the possibility to make a high quality scan of a genuine dial (no brand name here lol but im sure you know what im talking about, and refinishing gen dials is legal anyways).

Anyways, i can make a high quality scan of a dial, all i have to know is how to print it on a little sticker, so it can be applied to a blank dial.

The guy who gives me the decisive hint gets two or thee of these dial refinishing kits at no charge. Of course its only to be used to refinish gen dials.

thanx in advance

Well in this particular case i compared my perfectly modded 16610 rep to a 16610 gen with 31XX movement.

They look almost the same (small flaws can only be identified by a magnifying glass), but the rotor sound immediately exposes it as the rep, as you can hear the rotor winding ... the 31XX Rotor is absolutely silent.

Hello,

No matter how good a rep looks, when you take it in your Hand you immediately can tell it's a rep because the ETA winding rotor is so much louder than the one on genuine watches.

Does anyone have an idea how to fix this loud rotor sound? Maybe by applying a gen rotor to the ETA?

Any ideas are appreciated.

Danny

Hi Danny here,

Today Im coming up with a guide that might be interesting for all of you who dont want to buy a genuine bezel insert, but also dont want to walk around with a crappy looking bezel pearl.

Today we are going to Modify a [censored] .01$ bezel insert found on most cheap replica watches, to make the pearl look genuine. If you want to know how to do it, just watch this Video: Sorry for the bad quality, but in this video i hopefully can convery how to successfully do this mod.

Video is found here: http://video.google.de/videoplay?docid=-3530464537582212445

And here are the Pictures i took during the work:

This is the shitty bezel insert before i started the modification:

After we have machined down the pearl just like i explain it in the video, it looks like this:

And now, after we have filled the pearl with transparent epoxy like stated in the video, the bezel pearl looks like this.

It's very close to the genuine, and for a quick mode of about 15 minutes its a nice alternative to buying a gen one (for all those who dont want to spent that much money on a rep)

I hope you have fun with the video, and with modding your pearl!

Regards

Flip!

@ubi: this is how it ought to look http://doubleredseadweller.com/rs2.htm

btw. take a look at the spaces between the letters.

I would say that if this is a modded rep... It's a) taken a lot of genuine parts out of circulation and cost far more than any 'sane' individual would spend on modding a rep to actually build.

Consider that the dial, crown/tube and insert purchased a la carte could buy 6 or 7 complete, brand new MBW's... Now factor in the other parts like the 93150, etc. and the initial buy in.... Do the math and ask yourself if you would logically spend that kind of money on a rep...

I say gen. If it's a rep, then I am VERY impressed!

The Dial definetly is not gen. Look at the ROLEX text, the spacing would have to be a lot bigger.

Also...the crown is fairly inaccurate.

Also...Crown is definetly a rep one

...as for the other parts ...i see:

Gen bezel

gen insert

gen tube

gen crown

and a pic af a gen to compare:

You can't compare a 1680 with white Text to the Red Subs. And even the sed subs differ fom one to the other.

At least concerning the dial...there are the 600/200 and the 200/600 ones, and then there has been a big change from yr 72 to yr 73...The font got thicker, the Rolex Crown was changed, Change from Open to Closed 6es ... just to mention some examples.

As i see..the case looks Original..and i say this because of the curve shape from the lugholes until the crownguard....as for the other spares on the watch we will see...

I'd not say that the case is gen, as the gen endlinks do not fit neatly.

In my eyes it's a good replica.

I'm not sure as I'm no vintage expert but I at least see several flaws:

- Drunken X

- The spikes of the Rolex Crown are too Long, Crown should be thicker with shorter spikes.

- Wrong Datefont (closed 6), with the "T" from OFICIALLY being directly underneath the "ON" in CHRONOMETER it tells me that the watch is from 70s-72s, means definetly OPEN sixes. A closed 6 watch would have the "T" in OFICIALLY being more right, means not unter "ON" but just directly unter the "N" in CHRONOMETER.

- Too small date magnification

- ROLEX text misaligned, too far right, shold start slightly BEFORE the E in Oyster (Misalingment results because the spaces between the letters are too small)

- Second Hand too large, covers the Uppercorner of the R in Rolex, should cover ONLY the bottom corner.

- Huge flaw is the Hour hand. In your pictures the mercedes spikes perfectly meet in the center and looking like a mercedes sign.

In this particular model the spikes should be a tad misaligned to they do not meet in the center. Actually One spike should run into his neighbor, but not touch the other one. (should look asymmetric)

Hey friends.

Scroll up to the opening post. Pictures of caseback and lugs were added!

Yes, it is a gen indeed. Otherwise he would have mentioned the gen non-SEL bracelet too.

Hey chief,

The only thing that is gen in this bracelet is the endlink that is connected to the clasp (the one with the two spokes)

Wow, so many people telling me to stop talking [censored] and being sure the watch in the pictures is a gen That gives me actually alot affirmation you know, cause my mod must be absolutely flawless!´

By The way...Lugs were drilled according to the sticky-guide in the "Watch Repair"-Forum.

Nice job, and I like the cg's.

What case did you use so that you could fit a gen dial in it?

Hello, I used an "alpha submariner" case as the basis.