FlipLockBuckle

This is a frankensub with gen insert, gen dial and CG's reworked to perfection and drilled lugs. Feedback appreciated! Still have the Alpha caseback on, kinda like it:

Hey thank you or your warnings, but first of all it's just an idea...before I start making the cases I will of course seek legal advice to hedge myself against any legal prosecution. If my plan should be not possible without breaking any laws this idea will just not be put into practice...I'm not intrested in making any illegal counterfeit goods, But the first informal interlocution with my lawyer gave me good chances. Next monday I will talk to another international patent attorney, but as I know that there are many "generic" aftermarket parts out there im quite sure that it should be possible. Regards

I talked to a lawyer and he said it will be okay if theres no engraving on the case so....right there will be no engraving between the lugs, but its not a big deal to do it yourself if you want that. That should not be that much of a problem.

Hey thank you very much for your idea, I called the company, and they told me once i signed a contract for 50 or 100 cases theres no problem with first producing one and sending it to me for quality check. Of course they are going to accept the rolex crown EDIT: Im just thinking if I should make my own casebacks or buy some generic ones....does anyone know any cheap wholesale dealers for casebacks?

Hey, Of course i will first take orders once I have all the cases finished, means i will pay the case production myself. Means, once I will start taking orders the cases will be available so you can get a side by side comparison with the gen one (picture, video, whatever). I'm surprized that there are that many who would want such a case. That's nice to hear, I will try to start the production within one or two weeks, so we can soon move on to Stage 2. Regards

Hello, I just wanted to ask if anyone would be intrested in genuine-looking submariner aftermarket cases. They have correct crownguards, they fit 29,5mm Crystals (295C), they have the correct rehaut, the bezelcassembly is not the one you know from cheap aftermarket pieces, its just like the gen one. The case fits gen rolex movements, as well as eta movements (with a special movement ring). The tolerace is 0.0055 mm, that's a 1/200 of a milimeter ... so you can be sure that every case's gonna be absolutely perfect. As i would have to pay the production costs on my own, i wanted to ask if there would be any intrest in those cases. I think i would start with 50-100 pieces for the beginning, and i would give them away for something around 60-100 bucks. (Note: This project is still in planning and did not start yet, so im not taking any orders...im just intrested in who'd be intrested ) Thank you Danny

Hello, I have two ETA movements here. When I push in the crown all the way in, i can turn the crown counter-/ and clockwise without any problem. But on my second ETA there is a little problem i think. When I push in the crown all the way in and turn clockwise i meet strong friction, and it sound as i would turn some gear wheels...however no problems when turning counter clockwise. Do you have any ideas what might be wrong? It really makes "screwing the crown in" a pain in the a.... as i always think im messing up my watch because of the weird sound and the resistance that i meet. I hope anyone can help me, thank you very much in advance.

Hello friends, I was just curious what exact purpose the jewels have inside the movement. I mean it's clear what the mainspring, the rotor, the gears and everything else is, but does anyone know what the jewels are for...and why they actually have to be "jewels"? Would be nice if someone of you could explain it to me...im intrested in both: Technological backgrounds, and what they're for in general! Thank you very much in advance, Regards Danny

Dear The Zigmeisterzumba and others... It's absolutely okay if you delete this thread...I just wanted to share my experiences with other rep collectors...especially with those who disasselmbled their watch and are not willing to pay lots of $$$ for a crystal press with cyclops support or anything. The applied physical force (to press in the crystal) is always the same, no matter if it comes from a press, or from the rubber. I'm just curious how you can judge my "way" without having even tried it. I admit when you say it sounds brutal but that doesn't mean it won't work. Also: Im not talking about taking a 10kg hammer and wildly hammer on the crystal. I was talking about securing the higher edge of the crystal with a thick rubber and gently hammer it in with a small hammer... Anyways, causing trouble is the last thing i would want, so its okay if you just delete this thread...helping is all I wanted. But if you want to, ... i can also provide a video of how the crystal thing is done (my way)...

i see, CNC is not the best way to start building high percision parts for movements.... ....but what about cases. Do you think it would be possible to reproduce a gen case with perfect CGs using CNC? cheers

Alright guys, I found a 3D scanner for WinCNC which is able to scan 3d objects and reproduce them afterwards. PRoblem is...its accuracy is +-0,05mm, do you think its acceptable for a movement?

Hey friends, I called a friend of mine, and he told me that it's possible without any problems. All that would be needed for that is all parts of the movement in a CAD document. The machine would simply do the rest. Now the big question...how the hell can i get the movement parts into a CAD file? Thanx

Hello, I was wondering if something like "rolex movement" replicas exist? I mean it should be not that much of a problem to take apart a 3035 gen movement, and copy all the parts. Do you know if such thing exists? And do you know what i would need to have in order to start such a project myself...except the movement itself? Thank you very much for your help? Danny

*removed*

Hello, I'm sure you all faced this problem: I recently purchased a yachtmaster and the crystal was a tad misaligned. So I took my watch apart, pushed out the crystal with my thumbs and put it back on in the correct position. But then the Problems began...I was not able to push it in with my thumbs. I mean it was sitting kind of tight, but when i put the bezel back on, one side of the crystal was higher than the other. It was not just looking absolutely ugly but the waterresistance seemed to be put in jeopardy (as one side of the crystal was not fully in). Well, a crystal press could crack the crystal, because of the cyclops. So this is what I did: First i push in the crystal by hand so it sits somewhat tight. Then, take a rubber (a typical one you know from school) and put it on the side of the crystal which is higher than the rest. Now take a hammer (im not kidding) and gently hammer on the rubber, but make sure you dont put the rubber on the cyclops. Well repeat that on several edges of the crystal until it sits tight and is even. When you put the bezel back on you will see, the crystal is perfectly aligned and pushed in...just like a crystal press would do. This method should not crack the crystal because the rubber acts as a buffer. Already pressed in 3 crystals this way... Hope I could help you! Danny

@repaustria: Well...i hope i did no mistake but when i take a look at some watches at eBay i always see the crownguards have a little angle to the crown. Take a look at this gen submariner (Got it from http://cgi.ebay.com/MENS-18K-SS-ROLEX-SUBM...QcmdZViewItem): They look angled to me, and the crownguards in my picutre look kind of round because of the light

Hello friends, This is not really a complete guide, it's more a safe tip to a perfect crownguard. Many guys use a jeweler's file to shape the crownguards, and most of the time they become not even (somewhat curved)...but when you take a look at a gen submariner you will see that the crownguards are even and at a little angle to the crown. Well the best thing is, you buy a very little sander. It cost me about 20 bucks, and when I look at the results it was a bargain. In order to shape your crownguards, just remove tube/crown, put the sander at the desired angle to the crownguard, and turn the whole thing on. Make sure you wont take off too much material,...just always machine of just a little bit and put the crown on to check if it looks good. The BIG advantage to a jewelers file is that your crownguards will be absoluteley even, and it's very easy to get that angle. Now i will present you my work, and my sander: The crownguards look absolutely perfect, have correct angle/theyre even and im absolutely happy with my sander. It's not the last watch i modded with it. (By the way, got the sander from eBay, it comes with 42 pieces, so its not just a sander, it is 42 things in one.) The Crownguards: The working part of my cool sander: Hope i could help you with your CGs for the next time!

The first thing that i would do is remove the datewheel overlay (if there is any) and apply it properly aligned. This is a 10 minute job.

Hey friends, I recently bought a new watch....a Yachtmaster Rolesium. It's near perfect, keeps good time, is in very good shape, has perfect crownguards, a high quality dial + bezel.... ...the only flaw i could find is that the crystal is slightly misaligned. It's not much, but the datewindow is not centered in the cyclops, and the laser crown is also 0.5mm off center. Does anyone know how i could fix that without taking the whole crystal out? I bought a crystal press, but the guy i got it from told me that it will crack crystals with cyclops. I hope that anyone of you guys does have a solution! Regards, Danny

Hey friends, I have made some better pictures by putting a magnifying glass in front of my camera. Scoll up, i have updated them in my initial post. I hope you like my work, I'd be happy to get some comments on my modifications danny

Hi, no sorry there is no flower. I made some pictures in "landscape" mode, they are a little better. Scroll up....pictures are updated!

After cracking 2 Genuine crystals I finally got it First I've glued the crystal to the genuine spacer ring with epoxy adhesive, then I've put the crystal-gasket-entity into the watch and filled the spaces up with silicon (and let it harden a little while). The result us a superb-water-resistant-submariner with genuine gasket and veeeery nice date magnification. Sorry, my cam does not support macro mode, but this is what it looks like I'm am so happy that i finally did it...and for all those who think that a 295C is not compatible with rep cases: here's the evidence to the contrary:

Right, I could use an aftermarket Sapphire with correct magnification and size...but the thing is most of them do not have a correct laser crown, either its too big, or its simply not there. I will glue it first to the spacerring by applying very few epody between gasket and sapphire edge, and then i will glue the whole thing into the watch. I'm pretty sure that can be done without the glue being visible in the end. I will post detailed pictures of my work once its finished.

Well, the best things come in threes. I bought a third gen 295C, and now i will not press it in, i will glue it in with transparent epoxy adhesive both the gasket and the sapphire. I will post the results (pics) once im finished.

Today i went to a watchmaker and asked if he could press the crystal in...you know what he did? I was kicked out of his store the moment he realized it was a rep watch...what took approximately 2 seconds). So after I was back home i tried to push it in by hand...and it cracked again. Thats 500$ paid for broken crystals...i think I will just throw this watch away, and buy the gen one, because it keeps costing me so much money (already paid over 1500$ for it) and buying the genuine is more worthwile i think.