WetWork

LOL, I got it like 20 minutes before that picture. Most of the dust you see is so small, you wouldn't see it if the camera flash & a 500 watt shop light wasn't on it. So Cougar, your suggestion would be to just get the Asian clone movement, because they are all clone movements, and save the $50 or so bucks?

Review update: I got the AR coating smudge taken care of myself, and have a new PO clasp on the way, the old one failed. I contacted Joshua late on Saturday night, he replied right away and took care of the issue with the band clasp immediately. I can't complain about that, because things do happen. It is how they are handled that really shows me something about he company or supplier. The watch still keeps excellent time and has NO issues at all. I can testify to what was in the review, that winding clockwise or counter-clockwise makes a difference, IF you are winding manually. I like this REP way more than I thought I would and have worn it every day since I got it. I also got a new silicone rubber deployment band that I really like. I personally don't like the PO rubber ones, so I got this one, and it looks great (I think.) Forgive the dust on it, as the silicone likes to attract as much as it can. I also want to update a part about the Swiss ETA movement. I have done more research, and it turns out that an inordinate amount of ETA movements are in fact shipped to China. Not only that, it seems that there was an interview with the President of ETA where he said that parts were made overseas for non-America and European markets . When pressed further, he really got vague on whether these parts were also included in "Swiss" movements. He stated, "Swiss movements are at least 50% Swiss and assembled in Switzerland." As far as re-luming your watch, dial marker and hands, I got a quote for genuine Super Luminova and it was $122. I asked if I could post his info an the site, and he asked me not to because he was so busy. I got quotes for GEN Dial & Hands and the PARTS were roughly $300. To me, it is worth the extra money to get the GEN parts rather than lume REP parts, but that is the information for the forum.

Once you open up that clasp, you'll see the problem. It was the same one mine had I'm sure. The "hand bent" spring is the shoddiest part of the whole REP watch IMHO.

Sweet review. I'm haggling for my 45 now.

Try to turn the bezel a few revolutions to align it. I noticed the same, very small variation from the triangle point lining up exactly with 12:00. The rotating bezel may be off by a mil or something, but as I turn it, usually 2 or 3 times, it aligns perfectly.

I am glad we had this conversation about the DSSD. It saved me $450.

F'n awesome. LOL If I have to sell mine, it probably won't be a problem because I am A. In America and B. Can take CC's.

I saw they have a 60mm PAM... my GOD!

I agree with the Rolex comment Ade, that it draws what could be (depending on the wearer) un-necessary attention. Now that I look at them side by side, you could be right, I am leaning in the direction that the DSSD is too big. On the other hand, the Sub is 40mm, smaller than the PO, I love my PO, but now I am wishing I got the 45mm instead of the 42mm, so the SUB is out. I think a wee bit more "face" on the PO would have been a wee bit better for my wrist. The 45.5,, PO is only slightly thicker than the 42, but still 2.5mm less than the DSSD. I don't really need two PO's, and I don't really want to sell this one as it keep awesome time, and is a great REP. to risk getting a not great 45.5mm REP. Aaaarrrrgggggghhhhh.

If you look at the face close up under the word REVIEW about half-way down the page (I'd link to the image, but that is always hit or miss if people are logged in or not), that is my exact watch. I think you are referring to the numerals, which are white; they are not metal. They aren't raised like the markers, which are metal with lume on top. Thanks Vandal. How is that DSSD holding up? I am seriously considering one of the DSSD watches you mentioned from BK in the infamous thread. It is between the DSSD and one of the BVLGARI Diagono (black or white face) http://www.1-pc8838....750-p-9717.html http://www.1-pc8838....750-p-9968.html There is something about it that I like the looks of.

Thanks everyone. This thing took a while, and I wanted to have more in it, but I felt it was getting to the point of being too long. I wrote this in MS Word over the course of a few days, and when I copied & pasted it, there is one part that didn't paste over for some reason. Care and Servicing: Your replica watch is in many respects, very similar to its genuine counterpart. One of the things you should not neglect is proper servicing. The Omega manual states, I also forgot to add a part in with the Swiss ETA movements. I have been talking to BK about his Rolex MODs on the DSSD. One of his services is to verify the genuine Swiss ETA movement. Upon speaking with him, he does have Swiss movement watches in hand right now. If you read my reply to a comment below, I should have added the nickel plating in on the Swiss movement. That is a decent point about it. There are definitely other places to get the watch, and no doubt the price difference out there is a contributing factor. The one thing though, make sure you are comparing apples to apples (make sure both watches are the same in every way.) The watch you mentioned has an Asian ETA clone, and this one is the "Swiss" ETA. You could get the Asian version from Joshua at Perfect Clones for $50 less. Right on the page, there is a drop down box where you can select Asian ETA 2824-2 Movement -$50. Check it out: http://www.1-pc8838....824-p-9522.html So there is like a $50 difference. You have to decide what movement you want. There is at least some difference in the Asian to Swiss ETA movement. This difference is fairly important, the Swiss one is (electroless) nickel plated. Nickel is a very hard metal, it plates simply and easily; the plating process deposits material in a very even and consistent way. Nickel is hard, usually 48-50 Rockwell as plated, so the wear will be much less. Nickel is also very resistant to corrosion. If there are additives in the nickel bath like boron, or PTFE, then you have self-lubrication also. That is just for reference, I am not saying they do, as the description does not state that. The Asian movement simply says, "Gold movement only." Whoever you go with, do yourself a favor and get it from a vendor that is known and recommended on these forums. I could link a zillion cheaper websites to buy from, but like I said, you get what you pay for in one way or another. I mean, here, you can get the Asian version for $45, not only that, these guys give you more options than any of the trusted vendors do... probably because the color options don't even exist on the GEN versions. http://www.itokon.co...ss_id=96&page=3 I am NOT recommending that site, just showing that there is always going to be someone cheaper. I certainly think, going from a $3,500 GEN to a $350 REP was a good idea for me. Going from a $350 to a $45 REP... that may not be the best idea. I could probably eat 5 boxes of cereal, send in the shipping and handling and get a similar quality item as the $45 knock-off's on that page.

OMEGA SeaMaster Planet Ocean 42mm Review Omega – Seamaster History: Omega launched the SeaMaster range in 1948, in 2005 the modern classic, Planet Ocean series was born. Originally it came in black, but the color range later grew to orange, white and ocean blue. With three common sizes referred to as; Mid: 37.5mm, Large: 42 mm and Big (or XL): 45 mm, the Planet Ocean caters to a wide audience of fine watch enthusiasts. This is indeed a very brief history, as there are many places on the internet for those inclined to get a more comprehensive historical record than space allows here. If one so desires, a few links are provided below. http://www.interwatc...m/omega-history http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Omega_SA Omega ambassadors, or who wears the Planet Ocean watch: http://coolspotters....ean-watch/spots Of course, the larger than life character, James Bond is the most famous. In Casino Royale, before Bond was assigned his 00 status (“license to kill”), he was wearing a Seamaster Planet Ocean with a diameter of 45.5 mm. In Quantum of Solace, James Bond wears a Seamaster Planet Ocean 600 M, black dial. 2006 Casino Royale Seamaster Diver 300 M (Reference 2220.80.00) Seamaster Planet Ocean (Reference 2900.50.91) 2008 Quantum of Solace Seamaster Planet Ocean (Reference 2201.50.00) Water Resistance: The GEN SeaMaster Planet Ocean is definitely a SCUBA diving watch, and supposedly is a true Saturation Diving watch, although it does not bear the official markings to point this out. The standards and features for diver's watches are regulated by the International Organization of Standardization in the ISO 6425 standard. The GEN Planet Ocean is rated to 600m / 2000 ft. or 60 ATM; REPS on the other hand are considerable less. Every REP dealer basically says; don’t get the thing wet beyond washing your hands. I have never personally seen, and doubt any REP dealer has water damage covered in their sales terms, so wear accordingly. Whether your watch is GEN or REP, realize that water resistance is accomplished through the use of gaskets that keep the water molecules out of the watch case. There are varying degrees of everything in life, and you would not expect a REP watch to use the same high standard gaskets that Omega uses. Simply changing the gaskets with higher end ones may provide some, or additional water resistance. The gaskets (of GEN or REP watches) are subject to wear, and fatigue from the environment they operate in. It is not generally recommended to wear your watch in a locale that has temperatures or chemicals that can affect the long-term life performance of the gaskets, like a hot tub. Tells: Incorrectly placed He (Helium valve) and/or He valve crown not functional Improper bezel rotation, pearl & placement Incorrect Omega logo on dial face Case glass or crystal / AR (Anti-reflective coating) wrong hue or non-existent. Incorrect numeral font Lume: color and quality (year specific) Casework etchings incorrect Band & Clasp mechanism Serial Numbers 1. The Helium (He valve) is on the left side of the watch. Proper positioning is 1mm above dead center straddling the 10 O’clock numeral. Omega REPS have been plagued in the past with improper valve placement and it is the easiest way to spot a REP. This was primarily a problem on the 300M family of watches, and has, for the most part been over-corrected on the Planet Ocean (P.O.) watches. You still have to be vigilant for this tell in your quality control pics, nonetheless. The Helium valve placement on this REP was spot on. It is completely non-functional though, it does not even turn. Obviously a major tell. On the GENs the He valve serves the purpose of relieving Helium pressure while ascending from deep dives (>300m.)Omega uses a manual release on the Planet Ocean. Essentially this is a screw down crown that is unscrewed as the diver ascends so as to release the Helium gasses, which are the smallest natural gasses, and able to work their way inside the watch, around any o-rings or seals. 2. The GEN bezel, as well as this REP’s has uni-directional (one way – counter clockwise) rotation. Prior to diving, the bezel is rotated to mark the minute hand with the triangle (pearl). As time progresses underwater, it is easy for the diver to determine how long he has been submerged with this tool. The bezel rotates only one way so that in the event that the watch is bumped and the bezel inadvertently rotates, the calculations (time underwater) are skewed in a more conservative way (dive is longer rather than shorter.) The bezel should require adequate pressure to rotate to avoid the aforementioned issue of accidental changes. See the review section below for more on the REP pearl. 3. The correct Omega logo on the dial face has been explained ad nauseum. To keep it simple, it should not have “happy feet” or upturned ends of the feet. This REP had the correct logo. 4. The case glass of the GEN Planet Ocean is domed sapphire crystal with a purple tinted anti-reflective coating on both sides. This coating is subject to wear, and therefore is not covered by Omega’s warranty. The REP watch website says that it is also Sapphire crystal, but I have no way of determining if it is or not. The REP shares the purple hue AR coating. Mine did have a slight imperfection inside the glass. It is either a fingerprint smudge or a smudge in the AR coating itself. You can only see it as a certain angle and lighting. Luckily it looks like a crane taking off, so when I see it, I imagine it is some cool marked thing, when in reality, it’s a flaw. If you do get a smudge, it probably won’t look like a crane taking off, so you might have to make up something else it looks like. 5. The numerals on the REP are for the most part good, but they are not 100% accurate. You can read more about this in the review section below. 6. Lume: This is dependent on the year your replica is paying homage to. Prior to 2012, the lume was Super-LumiNova green on hands, markers pearl etc. This is what the REP I got has. Here is a link to what it looks like: http://www.1-pc8838....22.html?image=5 The newest (2012) Planet Ocean lume has two colors. From Omega’s website: “The applied indexes on the dials of the watches in the new Planet Ocean family are coated with white Super-LumiNova emitting a blue light as are the polished, facetted rhodium-plated hands. The exception is the minute hand which emits a green light, as does the dot on the diving bezel. This feature is particularly attractive for divers who, in their watery worlds, can easily keep track of their elapsed time at a glance. “ 7. Casework and Etchings: Make sure that all the letters and markings are visible and exist on your case back. One of the questions that arise is the “anti-counterfeiting logo” positioned after the words, “Planet Ocean” on the case back. This appears to be a globe with various Omega logos within them. The “anti-counterfeit logo” appeared on Omega watches in 2007. Some 2007 models have them, others do not. The Planet Ocean has a different logo than other SeaMasters. This actually is not a traditional anti-counterfeit mark per se. If it were, it would be relatively worthless, as many good REP’s shares this mark. The true origin of this mark was that Omega specifically employed it against Costco wholesalers. Omega sells watches for far less money in some countries than others. Costco was picking up these lesser priced, grey market watches, and selling them in America, effectively cashing in on an arbitrage situation. Omega added the globe (AKA “anti-counterfeit logo”) to their watches and sued Costco, claiming copyright infringement… and won. http://online.wsj.co...0596764410.html http://en.wikipedia....Wholesale_Corp. 8. See in the review section below. 9. Serial numbers: Another major tell. The serial numbers engraved into the back of the case opposite the 7 O’clock numeral are there, but the same across the board on the REP watches I have seen. Care and Servicing: Your replica watch is in many respects, very similar to its genuine counterpart. One of the things you should not neglect is proper servicing. The Omega manual states, “ Instructions: http://www.omegawatc...ice/user-manual Accuracy: There are many movement options that REP watches offer; the better the movement, presumably better the accuracy of the watch. I got the Swiss ETA 2824 automatic movement. The precision of a mechanical movement depends on the individual habits of the wearer and can therefore vary. My watch, with the way I wear it, is accurate to dead on, to about 1 second per day. Each REP dealer will have statements on their website as to the accuracy you should be able to expect, or you can ask them via email. From the Omega manual, the GEN average precision tolerance is between -1 and +11 second per day. Movement options: Omega, of course uses an in house movement that as of this writing has not been duplicated. The REP movement options available (range from least to greatest in terms of perceived quality) Quartz: Not covered here. Asian 4813: a cheaper Chinese clone of a Japanese Myiota movement http://blog.joinwatc...3-and-4813.html Clone ETA 2824: See below. Swiss 2824-2: http://www.chronomet...24/eta2824.html I have read that economics dictates that the movements are not truly Swiss in origin, but instead clone actions. To be the Devil’s advocate, there are REPs with the exact same case, dial etc. as their Swiss movement counterparts, but lessor Asian clones RETAILING for $138. The price difference does in fact represent what a genuine Swiss ETA movement would cost in bulk, so I don’t quite understand the “economics” theory to why they could not be Swiss in origin. If they are they are clones of Swiss movements, then it comes down to which action you prefer. If you take the movement completely out of the equation, these dealers are probably spending less than $50 for everything minus whatever movement is in it. Price Points: The Chinese can rip stuff off, but they can also differentiate between grades of anything. I would say that with a reputable dealer, if you pay more, it stands to reason that you may get more. This more than likely would be completely from the dealers end. Imagine a dealer receiving 100 watches; they may separate select ones for higher priced sale. Because no matter how good the factory is, they are mass produced, and some will be better than others. The selection process could be as simple as glaring errors, omissions, or mistakes. See the image below where a part of the “T” of the “Planet” is missing. I would also say, if you have problems, they are most likely to be addressed on the higher priced REP’s. I am NOT saying that a dealer will or won’t, as that is at their discretion, but to increase the odds of luck falling in your favor, it is worth consideration. Review: Bezel has some dust on it, these are not scratches. A prime example of the QC pics resolution I talk about. I originally wanted the SeaMaster 300M, but couldn't find one with correct Helium placement, and it seemed like "R&D" on this replica just ended and they moved on to the Planet Ocean. I wanted an accurate REP, so I chose the 42mm Planet Ocean. I know Omega says that 7 out of 10 people know who they are and know their watches... I think that is a little generous. As I said before, "If it isn't a Rolex, many, many people won't much about this watch.” that is one of the reasons I chose it. After much research, review and debate, I ordered the Planet Ocean 42mm “Ultimate” from Joshua at Perfect Clones. This vendor was recommended to me by a fellow forum member, Cougar. The exact link is to this watch is: http://www.1-pc8838....824-p-9522.html I wanted to do a review, not immediately after I got my watch, but a few weeks later so that I could see if the thing would just fall apart in that amount of time, or what my impressions would be after the initial open box experience wore off. I also felt that if you could see 2 weeks’ worth of normal wear and tear, it may put the QC (quality control) pictures into a little perspective. The first things I will say is that Rep watch buying is not for the faint of heart. There are so many different versions of the same REP watch that it gets overwhelming… fast! I have to go into narrative mode to explain my meaning: The overuse of adjectives in the descriptions makes me think that the grasp of the English language would be very similar to my own, if I did a web page in Chinese, "OK, these scribbles means it's really good, and if I add more to THIS scribble right here, it means it's really really good, and just recently I learned that if you put more thickness to the scribbles... people buy more." I wish they would either A. update the descriptions as new watches came out. B. Remove the old outdated watches. C. Have a glossary of the words as they understand them. Like how do you quantify, "Best, Ultimate, ULTIMATE VERSION, the ultimate version" etc. Because I know that the CAPS PROBABLY have to have a lot to do with how ultimate it truly is. Today when I noticed "THE ultimate version" I realized that "THE" probably has a lot of ultimate to it also. Because their language is so much different then English, they are trying to be descriptive, but it comes across as most everything being marketed as the best and it effectively cheapens the lot of them. I don't think this is entirely out of malice, but instead because of the quantum differences in the languages themselves. Once I decided on the Planet Ocean 42mm SS Triple Dog Dare Ultimate Best King Kamehameha version, I emailed a few vendors. I must interject here that I was purchasing right before Chinese New Year. This is essentially a 3 week binge where nothing happens but drunken orgies and the like. Joshua got back to me right away and had this watch in stock. I also will add that Joshua’s English was the best of the vendors I spoke with. This makes the order process a lot easier if you have additional questions, comments or requests. I ordered the watch with a credit card on Jan. 16’th and received quality control (QC) pics the very same day. When you look at the quality control (QC) pics, try to keep in mind that in many cases these images are 5, 10 or 20X’s the actual watch size (depending on your monitor size.) I received EMS tracking information before the QC pics were accepted. This is normal as the QC pictures have a number on a sticker on the watch so you know you are looking at YOUR watch, and not generic pics reused over and over. Once I accepted the QC pictures, the watch went out for shipping the next day. In real time, this is what it was to me: I ordered it on the Monday 16'th. Got QC pictures on the 16'th - EMS tracking info on the 16'th, it is tied to a number on the watch band in the pics. Approved QC pictures on the 16'th. Package sent out on the 17'th. Got to the USA on the 21'th. Customs in on the 21'st (Saturday 8 a.m.) Out of customs on the 23'nd (Monday 1:30 p.m.) Arrived the 24'th. With the EMS tracking, remember, depending on what country you live in, your package may actually travel back in time as the shipment cuts back across international date and time lines. This is why the date on the EMS tracking and actual days I had to wait is less by one. The EMS tracking info looks something like this: 2012-01-18 18:49:00 - City of Guangzhou - Posting 2012-01-18 20:21:00 - City of Guangzhou - Despatch from Sorting Center 2012-01-18 21:33:00 - GUANGZHOU - Arrival at Sorting Center 2012-01-18 23:52:00 - GUANGZHOU - Despatch from SortingCenter 2012-01-21 07:57:00 - UNITED STATES OF AMERICA USORDA - Arrival at Sorting Center 2012-01-21 07:58:00 - UNITED STATES OF AMERICA USORDA - Handed over to Customs Case: Seems like quality construction, much better than I thought it would be. Other than the edges being a little sharp on the bottom, there isn’t much to give it away as a REP. The case itself is a polished; (the site claims) 316 SS forging. If you desire, here is some information on 316 Stainless: http://www.azom.com/...x?ArticleID=863 Crown: A bit of history for those inclined to know their watch in and out. Two Swiss inventors named Perregaux and Perret patented a screw down, moisture-proof winding crown for watches in 1925. The winding crown poking through the case had always been a weak point in the earlier designs, allowing moisture and dust to enter. Rolex bought the screw down crown patent that is the predecessor of the screw down crown on this model. Of course, the patent is long since expired. Quality of the REP screw down crown; I have no issues with it. Unscrew in a counter-clockwise direction until it “pops” out. Many times you can feel and hear this happen. Once it is disengaged from the threads, you can pull the crown out, and set the time and date. When you do this, you will notice the second hand (at least on my 2824 movement) stop. This is normal, and is called a Hack movement. It makes it much easier to set the time, and is a feature on the GEN. To set the date & time: First wind the watch; I have the Swiss 2824 movement, so this is accomplished automatically by daily wrist movement. There is a semi-circular rotor within the watch that moves to wind the mainspring. It can be seen in this image with the words “OMEGA 2500” on it. http://www.1-pc8838....22.html?image=6 An automatic watch needs about 600-1,200 revolutions per day to be completely wound. The watch has a slip-clutch so it does not overwind. I have read where deliberately winding an automatic watch on one direction only (taking it off and spinning it face up), caused the mechanism to run faster or slower. I actually tried this with my watch. I set it to the atomic clock on the internet. I checked it a day later when I only wound it by rotating it clockwise; it was off by about 9 seconds. When I wind counter-clockwise, it was only off by 3 seconds per day. I have done this several times, with the same result. Once wound, set the date. Pull the crown out to the first position and turn the watch hands until the date changes. Continue rotating the hands until the watch is at 6 a.m. At this point, pull the crown out to the second position to the quick date adjustment. Turn the crown until the date is correct. Once this is done, push the crown back in to the first position and set the time. As a general rule of thumb, you do not want to quick set the date when the watch time is between 10:00-2:00. It is possible to damage a watch movement quick changing the date between these times. This is not just on REP watches, and not on all types of actions, just a “best practice” type of thing. Finish setting the date and time by gently pushing in the crown until the threads engage, then turning it clockwise until it is tight. Band & Clasp: Brushed stainless steel, pinned links (as per GEN) & correct lug size. The end links stick a little, and when open, the clasp is a little sticky / squeaks a little. I disassembled it and put “Smooth-Kote” dry gun lubricant on the pins and that seemed to solve the problem. This is a product that goes on wet, with an alcohol carrier. The alcohol dries on about 2 minutes depositing a dry film lubricant that penetrates the metal. It is not greasy or oily and has a black finish when dry. It will stay on unless a solvent is used to remove it. The Font, logo spacing etc. on the clasp is all accurate and looks good. The divers extension looks and functions as GEN. The clasp mechanism on the other hand is a little lacking. I read that these were greatly improved, that they would pop open in the past. WOW, those must have been pretty crappy because upon popping out the pin and opening the clasp to see why one of the two push buttons did nothing, I was greeted by what looked like a hand bent spring holding them together. In America, it would be too expensive to hand bend springs with tolerances for quality and repeatability. In China, it is probably too expensive to have a machine do it, and since this is not a visible part, “To Hell with it.” seems to be the order of the day. The spring was unevenly fashioned so one side did all the work. I was able to take the spring out and repair it to the point that now the clasp locks audibly and tightly. There is no way this puppy is going to open accidentally. It is not that difficult of a fix, if you have this issue. Dial: The biggest tell, the Omega logo is correct. It does not have happy feet. The wording is correct, font and spacing, it looks good. The markers are accurate and I have no complaints. The hands are passible to all but the most discerning aficionado; they are the right shape and length. The coloring on the second hand may not be 100% spot on, but I’m sure even the GEN has an acceptable range, and are not all the same. Date window, beveled and accurate. The numbers on the other hand, are not exact. There is a slight flare to the GEN numbers, specifically on the "2" of the "12". Again, this isn't something you can see, without the magnification, to any degree of certainty. The lume (hands, marker, pearl) is green and when first charged looks great. It lasts for a REP acceptable time, it’s no Super-Luminova, but it is even. See comment #6, Lume for more comments on this. Bezel & Pearl: Uni-Directional (one way) counter-clockwise (as per GEN). Quality 120 audible and tactile clicks. Font and markings accurate. Pearl, on mine it is fine; I have seen other recent REPs that are also fine. They may have finally gotten this issue straightened out, but it is something to look for on your QC pics. That is not to say it is GEN, or GEN quality. It is not, but again, you have to decide what is important to you; one small thing no one will ever notice, or spending $250 on a $350 watch to have the propper bezel pearl. I am almost completely happy with this watch. The lume doesn’t glow super long; it doesn't look bad, uneven, discolored from hands to markers, nothing like that; it just doesn't last very long. It's a nit-picky thing. After fixing the clasp, it’s fine, and the end links sticking was annoying, but when on, it is completely un-noticeable, even if you don’t fix it. The dial and everything is pretty spot on. The Average Joe certainly isn't going to know the ins and outs of a logo & exact font on a watch face anyway. These GEN watchmakers do so much non-sense to the watches as far as changes to combat the counterfeiting, and have so many different models, that unless you live and breathe it, you can't say with 100% certainty if this or that is genuine. Case in point, there was a question Vandal asked in the Rolex forum about the micro etched crown at the 6 O'clock position on the Deep Sea Dweller. Even the experts over there said it didn't exist. Then they reversed that later and said it did. Not only that, that the REP that he had DID in fact have the micro etch, and he had not seen it before. The REP Planet Ocean that I got from Joshua at Perfect Clones (as well as any watch over $200), was reported to me via email as being tested to 1-2 atmosphere (ATM) water resistant. This is not listed (that I could find) anywhere else on the site. I am going to assume that means 33 ft. OR LESS with emphasis on LESS. An atmospheric unit or (ATM) is the pressure that we are feeling now on us every day above the surface of the ocean, just “the atmosphere.” Roughly every 10m or 33 ft. you descend into water, an additional ATM is applied. In conclusion, overall the watch is amazingly accurate in both replication of look and timekeeping. It is amazing the value of $350 in China vs. the rest of the world. Nothing against Omega, as they should make as much money as the market dictates, but clearly, the GEN Planet Ocean, with no bells and whistles, should or could, be less than $2,000 new. I am glad I got this REP and actually feel, for my lifestyle, it is a better alternative to the GEN because I don’t have to worry about damaging a $3,000 or $4,000 watch. I can wear this every day, day in and day out without concern. I can wholeheartedly recommend Joshua at Perfect Clones and this particular replica watch. Trust me; it is much better than you think.

The red numerals are cool looking, with the added bonus of, if you get the orange dial and interchange it with the black dial you got... I think it looks a little better. So, what I trying to say is, you get a little bit more flexibility with them. How do you get the impression that I dislike this place? Because I have over 100 posts in 2 weeks? For the record, I wasn't told to stay quiet in the PM. Since I am the bigger man, I will just end this little feud, so we can move on. Pho, I'm sorry that I reacted negatively to the condescending way you talk to people. THANK YOU for pointing out the rules, and how they can be interpreted. I hope one day to claw my way out the imposing shadow you cast on new members, to the light of knowledge. I apologize for any contributions to this thread that caused anyone to think negatively about Pho, a very astute and accomplished lawyer. Now you have a formal apology, so no one needs to be upset anymore.

I disagree. The average thread has 100 or less views, is just "What should I buy" Reply: "Use the search feature noob." Broken English, broken English, broken English. Thread dies. You start to read this, you get bored, then there is the wailing of a ninja flute off in the distance as pump up music. You get re-energized to read more. You accidentally get some actual information as the flute gets louder in the background. Keeps you on your toes. Before you know it, you know something about REPS & the buying process; then you can't fight it anymore. You want the WetWork signture edition P.O. from PC with the alarm that says, "Take no prisoners... WAKE UP!" Trust me, I know what I'm talking about... I play a lawyer on internet forums. Take a look at this once: http://forums.watchuseek.com/f29/fsot-ebel-1911-btr-gmt-ss-ss-complete-640676.html

God this guy is so self-richeous. Can ANYONE quote me even ONE thing that Pho has commented on that is on topic IN THIS THREAD? Even one. ONE thing, that Pho has said constructively? Because about 50 PM's have come to me, THANKING me for slaping Pho down and exposing his jiberish and rantings on EVERY thread at ALL HOURS of the day as near non-sense. Pho, run aloing... go do the lawyer things you don't have to do, since you're not actually a lawyer. Whatever you do, seriously, get some help man. All kidding aside, you need help.

You can get the two different dial styles. White or red numerals. Just personal preference.

Pho,

Go get a job Pho.

Cougar, the average threads though... they're boring. This one has all the right ingredients to actually keep you reading!

Yea Pho, stop molesting everyone with your legalese all day. FOR THE RECORD, I AM NOT TAKING THE WATCH ANYWHERE. I AM JUST GOING TO TAKE IT OFF AND PUT MY HEAD ON MY DESK UNTIL I DECIDE TO BE GOOD.

But ironically you then you go on to do just that. I thought you were ignoring my attempts to be as intelligent as thou; because no one could be as intelligent as you clearly are. I mean, name-calling... that's up there man. Refresh my memory; when you became a lawyer, did you not swear an oath, yet you KNOWINGLY AND WANTONLY BREAK THE LAW; do you not? You quote rules and implied intent as if your actions and deeds were as pure as the baby Jesus. Somehow, in your mind, preaching the rules of the forum, absolve you for superseding actual laws. What a convenient double-standard you have built to justify your actions. Your concise understanding and omnipotent grasp of not just jurisprudence, but your uncanny ability to decipher the underlying blueprint that weaves the fabric off all things around you, solidifies your position as the wise-master and mentor of us kids on an internet forum. How did you get so powerful... and by powerful I mean hypocritical.

ROFFL - access your Rage little guy. I never went into an AUTHORIZE DEALER, I said that. Anywhere I was going to go into, was not an AUTHORIZED DEALER, I clarified that also. Yet you continue to bring up this "indiscretion" that I DIDN'T make and chastise me. According to the rules, I have done nothing wrong. Now that the flimsy arguments you conjured have failed to bear fruit, regardless of the spin, you are going off on this rant, personally attacking me and using obscene language. You clearly see yourself above the several rules you violate, to beat this one rule I didn't violate, to death. You surely are one heck of a lawyer. An actual lawyer can formulate a concise point. They can clearly communicate it with the English language (using the proper homophones). They can argue that point with facts and proof and dominate a... what did you call me again to bolster your inferiority complex? Oh that's right... "kid" with "no perspective on what it takes in life to do anything" handily. You go on to imply in your rant that you, or multiple people from this forum have somehow been burned by me, in that I received crucial information that may have potentially saved me a substantial sum of money, and I am now turning my back and not paying the proper homage to them. I got advice from one person, Cougar. I have, on multiple occasions thanked him. This Omega forum was dead when I got here. Cougar was the only one not high enough on a pedestal to answer my question, if anyone else WAS reading. $350 is not something I overly concern myself with. If it was, I probably wouldn't have conducted this experiment where I sent money to China for a knock off watch. I have stated that I was amazed at the quality, primarily because I expected so little. I try to tell other people that may come here my experience. Your argument that it is, "douches like [me] that cause problems for all of us" is laughable. You have a very twisted moral compass. So violating copyright, patent, intellectual property, receiving counterfeit goods and a plethora of other real laws... as a lawyer; that doesn't bother you? Are those the problems I am causing for you; THE POSSIBLE REPERCUSSIONS OF YOUR OWN DECISIONS? You are concerned about the attention that ONE PERSON is going to shed on this vast ocean of Chinese knock-off counterfeiting businesses that costs the real companies BILLIONS... because I bring my watch into a jeweler get the band adjusted? What, do you think they don't know? You think they don't know about the forums and the sellers and the factories? Talk about no perspective on how the world actually works. The secret's out, we're late to the party if you thought no one else was in the club. One thing you're right about, it's probably best to ignore me... because you're AA farm-league all the way, son. "It's a losing proposition, but one you can't refuse. It's the ultimate enticement it's the smuggler's blues." http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d7uKjo_URBo Thanks again Cougar!

Sweet! I can't wait to see the pics and read your take on the DSSD. I knew you were getting that one, but I didn't know you got a PAM too. I was looking at one of those myself. Very happy & relieved you finally got your watches man. Now you can wear one on each wrist!

Which one did you go with again... what vendor?

It's an art form to me, and I am constantly honing my craft. It's called, "pissing people off" Cougar. I'm not going anywhere else because I got the band adjusted and it would actually take effort on my part to do it. Off to get my law degree with an undergrad in English...