whiteshields1830

lume is terrible at '5' where the 50 is.

Ditto, anyone know when the v3 is going to be out then?

Ditto, anyone know when v3 is going to be out then?

what is the V3 called? I cant find it on his site?

legendkiller - which TDs currently have stock (that have no issues at all whatsoever)? the ones i deal with regularly dont have anything.

I got told a few weeks rather than months

Been trying to get my hands on a AP diver v3

yes just remove the case back and loosen the case lug washers .. and then just adjust the bezel screws , with a screwdriver until straight ..the re-tighten the lug screws

job done !!

I have no idea how what half of that meant haha. Though wouldnt it be best if i got the watch WITHOUT the need to tamper with it to get it right?

yes !! its a easy5 min fix !!!

P.s if you don't want it ........ ill take it !!

Can you let me know how i can fix it if i do accept it? I thought there was meant to be absolutely no gaps between the screw/bolt and the bezel?

Am i being too picky to reject this QC picture or do you guys all think that this is quite a big fault in the AP Diver V3?

Circled are the problem screws on the bezel...does it seem to me that theyre not put on properly? or that there are obvious gaps in them?

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Whos the best superlumer/AR guy on here thats located in australia?

Not too keen on sending the watch overseas to get both of these done, anyone know of any connections or anyone who offers this kind of service in Australia? (Better yet, in Sydney?)

Anyone paid via western union transfer to a TD before? Is it safe?

Heard horror stories in regards to paying for things via western union and has always been a no no for me, especially for underground things like this.

Mods - forgive me if this is in the wrong section, and if this should be moved to repairs

Who in the forum can repair or find replacements (and service) for A7750 movements?

At the moment i have a watch im willing to buy from another member of the forum, however the A7750 movement is broken. Id love to get it repaired but after reading through a few threads here, it seems like its easier to just get the whole movement replaced. But i want to find someone confident enough to do the repair or know someone to do it.

I cant find any leads on ebay for a A7750(all of the ones in there seem to be V7750s). I know my watch repair shops around my place would not even consider touching that movement - i know this because they werent willing to touch the swiss ETAs in my other reps for servicing, let alone a whole movement repair on a A7750.

Can anyone help?

Where would one be able to buy the Omega Speedmaster Date would anyone know?

Hey im just about to order from Asian7750 as well, but to pay its taken me to this site:

https://security.sslepay.com/sslpayment

Is this legit? Looks like a scam front to me? Most dealers allow payment via paypal, why not 'Tony'?

Very keen on getting myself a Omega Speedmaster. Saw a gen on a friends wrist and looks absolutely stunning.

Now in getting a rep, a bit of a search shows that most dealers dont sell it anymore.

Whys that the case? Does anyone know a dealer that does sell one? My search fu is weak

1. The fake carbon parts that come stock on the watch are atrocious. There is only one aftermarket option available and the parts are an extra $200+.

2. The difference in the Pushers and DW is a question of millimeters. The pushers are mounted flush on the rep when on the gen the crown position is much lower. The DW on the gen has a sunken in effect due to the unorthodox movement. This is why the gen needs a mag cyclops on the dial. The DW looks very deep inside the watch. The Rep is also thicker by 2-3mm. These are tells that most likely will never go away.

3. The color on the dial, specifically the subdials on the Grand Prix are visibly off a few shades.

4. The weight of the watch is far, far off from the gen. The difference would be about $2 worth of U.S. quarters in your hand.

5. A gen AP ROO hasn't used a LWO 283 in years, they are all in-house now. Movement looks far from the gen.

6. The Grand Prix series is listed as 42mm but wears a lot more like 44mm.

If you care about having a 95%-99% close rep in terms of accuracy, look elsewhere.

If you want a show stopper and don't care about the tells then highly consider it.

The AP RG Rubberclad is also another stunning AP I can recommend for your consideration. It also has a closed caseback.

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I noticed there was also a $800 version that would include the carbon parts. That would solve the issue in No.1 i presume? If No.2 is a issue on all APs then thats not a issue to me - a few millimetres here and there - no one will be able to tell the difference i dont think unless they have a gen next to them.

No.6 doesnt seem like an issue either, as puretime has it listed as 44mm. which matches gen specs?

No.5 i presumed that was the case - i dont expect the hundred dollar movement in the rep to match the complexity of a 45k watch.

Now my worry is no.4. cause $2 worth of quarters is a fair bit. And i presume the gen is the heavier one? Another concern is on No.3 - im looking at the pictures side by side and they look close to spot on?

Yeah, the movement and clearcase back certainly is a easy tell. Nothing can be done about that haha. The carbon parts look close enough to gen doesnt it?

However, i was more unclear about the actual appearance of the face of the watch. Is it pretty much in line with the gen? Not too sure what you mean by differences in offset pushers and date depth.

It is a larger than normal offshore i understand - and seems like 44mm is as per actual.

http://puretime.co/product/royal-oak-offshore-ultimate-grand-prix-rose-gold/

Making a move to AP watches (currently watches i have atm is the UPO, Rolex Sub/C Sub, Breitling Steelfish).

The AP above struck to me as being a amazingly unique watch, but im skeptical of the flaws on this watch. What are your opinions on it? Is it really worth the $588 price tag? (is it that accurate of a rep? for 588 i can pretty much get a BK modded sub for example)

http://www.rwg.cc/topic/18161-review-of-the-ultimate-planet-ocean-45mm/

Wrongly shaped eclipse logo on the dial. I dont own a UPO myself, just from what ive read in By-Tors review.

I think i will leave them out. The AR is wrong and weak. The lume is weak and wrong colour (compared to gen). PO has a bad crown (to big) and HE is wrong. I guess you have seen all the mods that ppl do to make them gen like. And then the bracelet is off low quality and often break.

I knew about those flaws for the 42PO. But the UPO i thought had most if not all of those problems fixed, bar the AR coating and the Omega logo on the dial.

Well, it's got the LV dial with the larger hour markers. Case is decent but it's not going to be TW or WM9 for that price. But it has decent rehaut. Trim the cgs and a regular 16610 dial and it would be a good buy. I'm just not big on LV dials in a 16610 case but some people like them.

But for $79 you can't go too wrong...

Not too sure what you mean by trim the cgs and put in the 16610 dial (i presume thats the gen dial thats going to cost a fortune?). I agree with you as well, not much of a fan of the fat dial (LV? whys it called that).

Had a look around the forums for a sub (non C), but i cant get past how this sub is so damn cheap at $79 (link below)

http://www.rwg.cc/topic/144682-great-submariner-only-79/page__pid__1107324#entry1107324

granted its one of the worst movements out there (2813, pretty much means a 21j? am i correct?), but besides that. Exteriorwise, is it bang-for-buck, a decent rep? not too sure on what factory build this may be (N-Factory? Wm9? TW?) as i dont know the tell signs of what factory it comes from.

Hoping the community of experts here can shed some light on this? and whether it will be a good buy (just as long as im not spending $79 if its terrible).

I should say also that I've owned two BK Sub-C's, and liked them. They're nice watches. I didn't stress out about the flaws, and when I decided I wanted to try and fix some of them I did. Until then I wore the watch just as it was.

Thanks for your help sneed. Reason i was choosing between the SubC or the Sub TW, was both looks the exact same to my eyes, except for the material the bezel was made of. Only reason why i chose the SubC was the shiny metal bezel looked very similar to my UPO black bezel.

Seems that i was wrong, and realised on here that the Sub TW was a superior replica than the SubC (kicking myself over it). But regardless, i guess i bought the Asian ETA, so few yrs down the track if it does break i do have the excuse to try the Sub TW if its still around (or a better one has taken its place).

given the flawed nature of current sub-c reps, as sneed said "-the average person couldn't tell the difference between this watch and a gen if you held them right next to each other."

i have the same watch (Asian ETA movement) and it has more wrist time than my 1680 Rep, the upgraded bracelet is well worth it. as they ahve said it, wear it in good health.

if i'm not mistaken, the case reference/serial of that watch is "V261246"

Would all reps be as easy to tell that its a rep?

For example, BKs version of the TW sub has mods all over the watch to make it as authentic as possible. Its damn pricey at $680 (compared to $180 which i paid for mine, $500 dearer), but does that fool even the trained eye? Is there no difference in that watch compared to a real rolex unless you open it up?