horn34

Can someone please re-up or PM me a link to this file? Thanks!

Really useful guide but I'm still confused about SOH versions.

As far as I can make out:

• V2 is better than V1
• Biggest indicator is alignment of the P in SuperOcean with the leading A in Automatic
• V2 has not been made for ages (and probably won't be again)

But I've also read about a V1.5 and a V3 (which may or may not be the same thing?)

How do the V1.5/3 stand up against the V2?

Do we know who supplies which versions? I know advice is normally to email TDs but a bit of info will help me target the emails.

Finally, can anyone tell me what this one is at WatchEden? It appears to have P/A alignment and be in stock (unconfirmed).

edit: http://www.watcheden.net/breitling-super-ocean-heritage-asia-eta-movement-with-blue-dial-ultimate-version-i-22978-p-1.html

Post up a pic and I'll tell you. Sounds like you probably have a V3. Working on a revision to the review to include the V3.

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Did you ever get any info on the V3 put together? I have the same question as Higs, cuz I'm seeing some SOHs at different TDs that look like a mix of V1 and V2 components.

Looks like I'll be going with the 2828 then. Too bad the day isn't in English, but I won't see it on this build.

You can either sell your 21j watch as a whole watch and rebuy with the A2836 or buy a movement. My suggestion is to buy the 2828 from Ofrei (which appears to be 21.6k, after all) or a 2846 new on Ebay. The 2828 would be my choice as I believe it is a bit better movement than the 2846. Either one should work for you.

I can possibly get a 2836 or 2824 for around $75. Would it still be better to get a 2828 or 2846 for $110?

I have the cheapo 5513 with 21j movement, so I have to buy another movement, I don't see any way to workaround that.

Did you order directly from Yuki? If so, you should be able to look at your order and see if you went for the 278x dial or the 28xx dial. If not, try to compare to the images above. As for swapping the dial, if your 5513 has the Asian 21j movement, NOT the Asian 2836, then you cannot do a straight swap. The ETA dials will not fit the Asian 21j movement.

I have the "Rolex Tudor Submariner black Dial Parts for date 9411 for cal 2824 ".

I'm guessing I need to cancel the order for the 2783 movement?

It can be tough to tell without knowing where your dial came from. Yuki gives you options. Late subs may have used 2824s (though I think this may only apply to generations after the 94x1 - hopefully someone else can confirm), but for the most part if your dial is a gen Tudor 94x1 then it would have 278x feet. However, here are some photos of Tudor dials to illustrate the differences:

This is a Tudor date dial, which while 1mm larger than a 94x1 dial, should have similar date window/feet placement. Because of the applied markers, you can tell where the feet are in relation to the 3 o'clock day window. Here, you see that marker above the date window is closer to midway between 10 and 15, thus making it 12/42. This dial will fit a 28xx movement.

This one has the 11/41 placement, as you can see the foot is just below the 10 marker. It'll fit a 27xx movement.

It is my understanding that the 5513's with the Asian 21j movement has the datewheel still under the dial. However, this is of no use to you if you are planning to replace the movement.

So you couldn't just swap the Yuki 9411 face with the Rolex face on a 5513 with datewheel? I have the Yuki 9411, fyi.

Thanks, that is an excellent point you have raised!

OP - You can pick up a 2836 from Helenarou?, but I meant for you to buy the complete Josh 5513 with eta 2836 clone in it - then swap dial and hands only.

I just bought a 5513 with no date wheel. I didn't realize there was a version with date or I would have grabbed that one. I'd prefer not to buy another one unless that's the cheapest/best route.

It's only cheaper if you buy the Josh 5513 with it already installed. Otherwise, I don't know where you could buy an Asian 2836, and the Swiss 2836 is definitely more expensive.

Edited to add: does your Tudor dial have feet for the 278x movements or the 28xx movements? This is important to know. If 278x, your best choice is the 2783 from Ofrei; if 28xx, your cheapest solution without buying a new Swiss 2836 would be the 2846 (21.6k, so low beat) which can routinely be found for around $100 on Ebay.

How can you tell which feet the dial has?

It's still probably cheaper to utilise a clone A2836 from the josh 5513, as this beats at the same rate as the 2784, which is the main engine for the 9411/0 and later 941110 series. This way you know it fits the case and stem without any risk?

Just trying to save you money!

The one from Ofrei is $160. Do you know someplace to get one for under $100?

Ok, found Ofrei. I'm just gonna grab the first one, I don't see the value in the Bucherer signature.

As far as I know, Tudor used both the 2783 (21.6k) and 2784 (28.8k) in the 9401s and 9411s. Thus, either movement should be correct. Ofrei sells new 2783s for $96. Alternatively, you could use a 2846 (generally around $100 new on Ebay) for a 21.6k beat rate, or a 2836 for 28.8k. I would not use the 2824 in the Josh case, as it is my understanding that the 2824's stem height could cause problems.

I'm building a 9411, so it sounds like the 2783 is the way to go. Can someone link me to Ofrei's site?

Stay away. He is not a scammer but he already screwed up on a number of members including me.

Thanks, I had a feeling it was high risk, otherwise all the 7032 threads would have the link.

Is this legit? Someone emailed me this link and I'm not sure if it's worth the risk. It seems like a good deal for $190

http://dw-watches.ne...s-only-special/

I picked one up from josh, out of the box it's a nice starter. Reshaped the case, trimmed crown guards and drilled lugs, rebuffed the case to give it that older over polished look. Next pick up a eta 2824 and a dial and finish it up.

Check perfect clones or trustytime, fast service and easy payment.

Good luck

Any recs for the movement? I have all the pieces now, but the 5513 obviously doesn't have a date wheel, so I can't use the this movement. I know you said "pick up a eta 2824" but I need some specifics, like where and model number.

TIA

how bout some pics?

I'm browsing ebay for a replacement bezel insert and I'm seeing several auctions where the inserts are advertised as fitting both a sub and a GMT. I thought they were different sizes?

if youre going to buy this i dont really see a point in spening $ to dress it up, if you dont like the dial maybe change it, try raffles time he has cheap flake dials

I canceled the order for that tudor rep and took a beating for my efforts on the RG dealer forum.

just get the cheap asian movement at least the beat rate is more correct. in the future you can upgrade to a slow beat eta if you want for probably $80

thanks

Again, should I care about the movement or just get the cheapest 5513 available? Josh and several other dealers have different versions of the 5513 with different movements, ranging from $118 to $298.

You got a link for that 5513? I've been getting different suggestions for the best place to pick one up.

And should I care about the movement or just get the cheapest 5513 available?

Nope, the bezel is held on with a Teflon gasket, bought one last month with the same intention of modding. Not a very good base for a good Tudor. Get Josh's 5513 and source parts, that's what I'm doing now.

You got a link for that 5513? I've been getting different suggestions for the best place to pick one up.

I've fallen in love with Tudors, but I don't have the scratch to build a $1500 beauty right now. I bought this rep from PureTime (Vintage Tudor Submariner 7928 Yellow Lume Dial A21J) http://puretime.co/p...lume-dial-a21j/

I'm not in love with the face and I'm wondering if it's possible to replace anything, like the face/hands/bezel with spares?

I'm looking for parts at http://www.yukiwatch...tudor_dial.html and ebay, but I'm not sure it's even feasible. Help?

Switched to my Tudor Sub: