RWG Technical

It does not sound like you did anything wrong, or tried to mislead the buyer. You were told it had certain things, and now your being told something else, by a "watchmaker"... My suggestion is that you sold it with good intentions, described exactly as it was described to you. You did nothing wrong. How can you verify that this "watchmaker" even exists, or knows what he is talking about? You can't... There are two options as far as I see it: 1. Have the buyer return the watch to you, after you inspect it and make sure it's as you sold it to him, refund the money. 2. Simply say to the buyer, I did not mislead you, I am no expert in determining "sapphire" or genuine "ETA" or whatever... I would not even consider sourcing a new movement, or crystal or whatever, by the time your finished getting the parts, paying someone for the "installation" (if it even took place) etc, your out of pocket the cost of the watch, and the cost of the parts...and way behind in my opinion. I think your being lead down the garden path... By the way, your pictures don't show up. RG

It actually applies to all watches, gen's and reps alike... Setting the time wears out the cannon pin clutch, especially if it's not oiled correctly or serviced regularly. RG

Well I understand the keyless works very well, and I can't figure out how to do the work based on that "tutorial", so I am sure it will be a challenge at best for someone giving it a first try... RG

Well Klink and Frei are both in California, you may be on to something... I agree with Amplitude, he doesnt' want anyone to "waste" his precious time, yet pays for long distance to call people and scole them like they were 2 year olds...what a jerk... RG

Well the only interesting part I read, is the fact you damaged the hairspring or balance, and they installed a whole new movement. That's akin to need new spark plugs and an oil change, and the mechanic replacing the engine... RG

I think the only synthetic oils I use and have are 9010 and 9415. Since the movements need D5, 8141, and 8217, which are not synthetic, I guess it doesn't matter...even if the synthetic ones survive, they only make up 2 wheels and the pallet and escape wheel...the remainder will be dried up. RG

There won't be any wear on the parts if the watch is not running...but the oils will all be dried up and gummed up. It would be smart to have the watch serviced before you used it, or you risk damage when it starts running. RG

Well then, as soon as Kruzer gets back from his holidays, and I have a firm date for my visit, we'll have to get something arranged for a get together. RG

Great stuff. We expect to arrive on a Thursday and leave again on the Sunday, Kruzer will let you know the dates... And of course, my friend will be with me. I expect there will be watch talk... RG

Your much better off with a 2836 basterdized movement, than with this one on ebay... First off the hands won't fit from your ETA to this one, so you would need new hands, getting the movement to fit in the case, securing it, stem alignment etc are all problems when you replace a movement with a totally different one. The quality of the movement is very poor, I have seen many of the same quality, and they are worth $2 or less, you get what you pay for, in this case, it's worth the same as a cup of coffee... Stick with the ETA 2836, and if you want it to be a good reliable movement, have it serviced... RG

Your welcome. Hey Jetsons, I will be in the big apple in a month or so visiting Kruzer, if memory serves me well, your in the same area also?? A mini GTG maybe? RG

Can you post the item number, My work computer does not allow redirecting of web pages, or can you cut and past the whole link so I can cut and past it into my browser. Thanks, RG

Given the amount of oil I find every now and then in these movements, this could be the problem with yours. The click has to be completely dry to work correctly. RG

Great explanation and information. Lume, cannon pin, and crown, you can verify easily...servicing, well it's hard to tell... There are only so many people with the skills to do this work, so with that in mind, it's probably easy to eliminate the obvious modifier/watchsmiths out there...it does not seem to be flav doing the work, or me...so I wonder who it could be?? Anytime I can help you out with anything, please let me know, borders although annyoying, have not been an issue. Good luck with your purchase. RG

Your right on, when the rotor spins when winding, the click wheel is not "freewheeling" it's catching, the resistance you feel is the wheel grabbing... I agree, I don't trust garage mechanics either... RG

Only question would be: Who is "Servicing" the watch, and what are the "Mods"... the answer to that question, will tell you the answer to your question...I can put two identical movements side by side, one fully serviced, one not touched, and you will not be able to tell which one is which... I would be very cautious of plunking down extra $$$ for something you can't verify. The only other question, did you ask this question on the Dark Side, and if so, what was the answer... Why is it lately that so many folks are coming here, asking for our input on a topic or subject that originated on the dark side, am I the only one that finds that strange? RG

You should send it back, most likely the problem is the click wheel for the autowinder, it needs to be cleaned and dried very well or it acts like this with a lot of resistance. I wonder if they used the one dip process, as this is the common problem if you do it this way. It won't get any better, and most likely in a few days, you won't be able to wind it at all... RG

It may look like an ETA, but it's totally opposite an ETA, none of the ETA parts will fit this model. It's not a "Knock Off" or bad movement, it's just an option, since ETA is slowly getting out of selling their movements outside the SWATCH group. I have seen and serviced these for over a year now, and don't see any issues with them. RG

Oh you wait, J and I are going to be like the long lost relatives that won't go away... RG

Wow, what great photography...wonderful shots, magazine worthy. Glad you like the results, great watches, wear them well. RG

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Of all the flooded watches I have worked on, they were all total write off's...not one had any salvageable or usable parts. If indeed the watch is flooded, the odds of the movement being usable again, is slim to none...your looking at a lot more than $500 for this job, since you probably need a whole new replacement movement. You can't clean or service rust. RG

I don't know why I was under the impression this was a 6497 movement, my mind was somewhere else...sorry... As for the movement, the easy and quick check, is the hairspring attachments, ETA uses removable studs, Asian use fixed regulatory pins etc. A picture will show what it is... If you look in my subforum, there is a lot of pictures of the variants, including the so called "Asian 2824..." RG

I agree, but also think that the watchmakers we have on RWG produce just as good of a quality product as any professional, the only difference is that most of us do it as a hobby. I personally think I can do as good a job on movement servicing and relume work as any professional out there... Professional is a way of conducting yourself when you offer a service, I know many so-called professional shops, that leave a lot to be desired when it comes to turn times, prices, customer service, etc... RG

My comment was directed at who I quoted, piratedzeus, not at you...sorry if you misunderstood. I am all for sharing between forums as well, and I know vaccum and have spoken to him many times on the phone, and consider him a friend. But I also think we should promote and remember the members we have on our own forum and mention them first, over members who frequent other forums. Ater all, the members who are here, are the reason the forum is what it is... if we don't recognize their contributions, they will just move on... I have not had any issues ever luming a varnished dial, most modern rollies are varnished, not a problem, ever... RG