RWG Technical

You have disconnected the cannon pinion from the wheel that drives it. You have to re-insert the cannon pin tube into the cannon gear wheel for it to work again. RG

If memory serves me well (after a while one watch looks like every other one) there are screws that secure a ring that secures the bezel in place. These screws are under the caseback, so if you take the case back off, look at the case from the back, and if you see screws in the caseback, tighten them up, there should be 4 of them. The screws are in the case, not where the movement sits... But I could be thinking of some other model, have a look and let me know what you find. RG

Try swirling it like a wine glass in your palm, dont' hit or slap it... swirling may get the balance moving and unlock the pallet stones... The problem could be a number of issues, if the beat is out, the movement will lock and you can't get it started again...a watchmaker is needed to adjust the beat. Or it could be something else, try moving the hands and see if it starts running...I am guessing it's a running seconds at 6 model?? RG

I can do any colour you like, just ask, and it will be done... RG

@flavor flav No hard feelings towards you, as you did not step on my toes or steal a job from me. I am glad that you can offer your services to the other members here. If bewolf was a real supporter of this community, he would have the decency to let you know about his prior arrangements and conversations with me, before making new arrangements with you. I don’t want to have anything to do with this watch, it’s your time and skills that are into it, and bewolf can compensate you for your efforts and your time. What pisses me off, is the urgency that people place on situation, and the multiple PM’s and impatience. That, and the fact that he took up my time, and Jennifer’s time, and then did not have the decency to send Jennifer a message telling her to cancel his booking. That is the issue, nothing else. @ bewolf Jennifer did answer your email, just not in the time frame that you wanted… this was done on Thursday, just after I had answered your pm inquiry as to why you did not get an answer from her immediately. If indeed her email message did not come through (unlikely), I can’t help but wonder why you suddenly forgot how to pm me, and let me know that you did not get any response from her, or that you had found someone else to take care of your “emergency”. Considering that you had no problem sending me 4 messages in the previous 24 hours, strange how once someone stepped up to help you, you forgot how to contact me. When you first contacted me and I sent you my capabilities list, and your response was “I’ll Fedex it to you today…” that should have been my first clue that you did not even read what I had sent you. You were a jerk, you wanted instant gratification, and as soon as you found it somewhere else, you forgot about our arrangement, or the help I gave you. RG

I am assuming (maybe mistakenly) that you have gone over my info at www.ziggyinfo.com...if by reasonable you mean less than the price I charge, then no, I know of no where that it can be done for less. No, Tritium is illegal and a controlled substance in the USA and Canada...the only place I know Tritium is used and allowed, is aircraft emergency exit signs...tritium in watches is illegal to import from what I know. In Canada you need a license from the atomic commission to have tritium. RG

@ beowolf Thanks for booking an appointement with me, sending me multiple PM's because my associate did not get back to you within a few hours, and then sending the watch somewhere else to get fixed, and not even having the decency to let me or my associate know that you changed your mind. Very impressive performance, considering the help I gave you. RWG members at their WORSE People like you ruin it for everyone else looking to have work done...when the door closes for good (which it will), RWG members can count people like yourself for the reason. RG

Dust blower, sure go for the cheaper version... I promise you, the first time your movement falls out of the holder and onto the floor, you will have wished you spent a few dollars more on the bergeron one... In the end, it's not worth it except for a few items. RG

I have lumed a number of PAM's lately that the original lume is very greenish, more of a C7 colour, than a C3... C3 is not very green tinted at all, very "slight" greenish and yellow colour. On the ones I have lumed, you can see the difference between the geunine SL C3 and the existing lume, it's no where near the same colour. My "Rol-Mega-Matic" SMP chrono is lumed with C3, have a look for a comparison. RG

Wow, does that format and detail bring back memories... Fantastic job, and great review. RG

That is a good start, your missing a loupe and headband to hold it, and you should also have watchpaper, and a dust blower and rodico, and a hand installer (red/grey bergeron one is good), Horotec make the best screwdrivers in my view, but the Bergeron ones are fine... For luming, you can buy dial blanks (sandwich and non) from davidsen, and also hands from him, practicing on these is a much better and less risky way to teach yourself. I have painted with oils all my life, and even with 30 years of painting experience and brush handling, combined with being able to work under a loupe for hours, I still screwed up my first 10 or so lume jobs, so I can easily say how difficult it can be...but anyone can learn, just not on a nice PO I dont' think... And it's one of the practice practice and more practice jobs, there is no other way to get the handling and applying down pat. Your list, and the items I suggested are the minimum you need to remove and reinstall the movement and clean up after yourself. Have fun, RG

Reluming is like painting or riding a bike, no matter how much you read about it, or someone tells you about it, it does no good until you actually try it yourself, I can promise your results will not be anywhere near what you expect... I can't teach you how to paint via text, no more so than I, or anyone else, can teach you how to relume. First you need the lume - www.ofrie.com (cheap lume) or www.rctritec.com (genuine Super Luminova), then you need caseback opening tools, screwdrivers, a loupe, and knowledge on how to use these tools, how to case and uncase the watch, then hand removers and installers and knowledge on how to use them and do this task, knowledge on handling the movement so as to not break it, or remove the oil from the pivots, knowledge on standard practices on movements, etc, etc, etc... Since you have no idea where to start, I suggest Time Zone watchmaking school...and forget about the Ebay cheap tools, you get what you pay for, and there is no trade as unforgiving as watchmaking and cheap tools...the two just dont' go together. Not when you consider that a fingernail can crush the parts of a watch, a mislaid finger can destroy an adjustment, or mishandling can undo an hour of adjustments and workmanship. Start at the beginning and work your way up, otherwise your in for a lot of disapontements and mistakes... You have chosen one of the most difficult things to tackle as your first step into watch work, as PP said, send it to a professional, or not, your choice... Just remember, there are no shortcuts in watchmaking, and learing to lume, takes hours and hours of practice and more practice, expecting anything other than terrible results and mistakes and damage to your movement/dial/hands, as your first attempts is not being realistic. Believe me I know, from first hand experience... RG

Very nice work, looks good, and great that you did the modification to the arm yourself. Can't wait to see the next installement. RG

It needs to be regulated and the timing and beat checked, and adjusted. Any local watchmaker can do this job. RG

The 3000 psi shear strength is misleading...especially when your breakage was in tension, not shear. Shear is two pieces sliding against each other, your filling it and breaking it off, was a tension breakage, not a shear one. You dont' require anywhere near 3000 or even 1 psi to hold a dial in place, a few ounces will do. After all, the only purpose of the dial feet is to secure and hold a feather light dial to the movement, but once it's cased, it's being held by the case clamps squeezing it between the case and the movement. Dial feet are resistance welded to the dial, there is a machine for doing this but it's very expensive. I dont' have one, and never will... My solution, put dial feet on with a bit of glue, as long as the dial stays in place while the hands go on, and I case the watch, that's all you need, nothing more. That loctite bottle states right on the front "Press Fit", which is not what your application is. Some gel cynoacrylate glue, a small drop on each foot with the feet installed and secured to the movement (how else can you align it) is all you need, carefully line the dial up, lay it over and on the feet, and you have a few seconds to line it up, and then it hardens...and your done... RG

I continue, and will keep believing, that Flip is having a good laugh at each and everyone of us with these posts that he dreams up... From the person who brought you the $750 in crystals (for the want of a $50 press) that he tried to install with a hockey puck and block of wood, to finally getting it installed correctly with a Hammer and some epoxy and bathroom silicone (and of course encourageing everyone to try this), who a few weeks earlier took crystal clear pictures for us all, but for some reason couldn't get his camera to work this time around... To the same individual who last week had a buddy who was going to replicated the genuine rolex movement, and now this week, were into 1:1 Rolex cases... I for one, don't buy one minute of this BS, but maybe that's just the cynic in me...or not... I can't wait for next weeks installement, should be interesting. RG

Have a look in this section, it covers a lot of these questions... http://www.rwg.cc/members/Reviews-breakdowns-etc-f75.html RG

If it's running all the time, then the bottom lever is being pressed against, maybe from the bottom pusher not fully releasing... If the chrono lever on the movement is being pressed on all the time, it won't allow the levers to reset to the correct positon and line up allowing you to reset the 12 hour subdial. Check that the bottom pusher is actually coming all the way out of the case and not hanging up somehow... RG

ETA offset cannon (part # 240) will fit the new 28.8K Asian only, it will not fit the older models... RG

I have seen a few of these also...I think they are remarked ETA's, older ones (no jewels in the autowinder). Not Asian from what I remember, but gen ETA or aftermarket... RG

Also note that this movement is not the same as a ETA 2892, the ETA is 11.5 ling, the 12892 is actually larger at 12.5 ling...a different animal made especially for Mido...it's not an ETA, but a custom model, getting parts could be difficult as you have to order 12892 parts, not 2892 parts... RG

Note that this is a 2892 ETA, not a 2892-2 or the newest version, the 2892A2, there is a big difference between all these models, with the 2892A2 being the newest version and the best so far. The A2 was developed to correct the defects with the previous versions. The 2892A2 was the one compared to the 3135, not the earlier versions... This 2892 is over 20 years old, something to consider when comparing prices etc. RG

Cut it with a pair of wire cutters, file it carefully where it's cut so it can thread into the crown, and do it in stages so you don't cut it too short, test fitting it along the way. If you file too hard, you'll snap it in half...and if you don't file it nice and round, you'll cross thread it in the crown... RG

I use a 40mm die for intalling these... But I think if your 37 mm is a hollow one (with just a lip around the outer edge) you will be fine. As long as your not using a flat die it should not make any difference. CAUTION. I have found that many many of these watches won't accept these crystals...you should measure the inside diameter of the bezel, and the crystal with digital calipers, you need at least a difference of 0.5 - 1.0 mm between the two for it to work, i.e. the crystal is 40.00 mm, and the inner diameter of the bezel is 41.00 mm or so... The other issue, is you need a good quality press, even more so on these domed crystals, if you have plastic or nylon dies, it's going to seat crooked, and you'll have no success... Delrin or aluminum dies are the only ones that I know will work. Even at that, getting a replacement one to work on anything other than a Davidsen watch is an excercise in frustration, they appear to only fit his watches... RG

Must be the new math...I hope the person doing the actual machining has better math skills... Considering that a human hair is only 0.08 mm in diameter, I can't help but wonder where that figure came from. I would love to see the CNC machine that is going to do the work...especially when you consider that Rolex uses specialized CNC machines and needs 160 separate machining steps to make one case... producing an identical case, on your own, in a machine shop capable of incredible tolerances, and being able to sell them for under $100 each, wow, I am impressed... Something smells fishy, if you start asking for deposits, I would be really worried at that point. RG