RWG Technical
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Everything posted by RWG Technical
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Probably not, it's a design issue, and time will not change the way it is... Most Asian models are close copies of the Miyota 8215, and are interchangeable... Replacing it with a Miyota is probably the only way you will fix it...but it's only astetics, it will work fine and keep good time...the one I have does...
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You had your doubts?? RG
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Your problem is due to the design of the movement, it's an indirect center seconds drive (as are the Miyota and most Asian auto models). Indirect seconds is a big gear driving a small gear for the seconds, and these are known for having jumpy seconds display. It does not affect the timekeeping, is not a defect or anything that you can fix or correct...it is what it is... Here's how you test this out... Take your watch and hold it up with the "12" facing up and watch the seconds hand, especially from 12 - 6 as it moves...my guess is that it's jumpy from 12 to 6, but smooth from 6 - 12... Now turn the watch upside down, so the "6" is up and do the same test...I guess that now the seconds hand is jumpy from 6-12, and smooth from 12 - 6, the exact opposite of the problem with it's right side up... Why? Because gravity takes up the slack in the gears when it's going in the upper against gravity direction, but when it's going down towards gravity, the slack is not taken up in the gears... I wait to see the results of your test... RG
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ETA has stated that the dont' have any 7753 parts for sale anymore...according to ETA the 7753 is no longer in production. If you broke the 30 minute counting wheel you will not be able to replace it. I know because I had the exact same problem on a watch in house (identical issue, Do-it-yourself and broke it off), and after 6 months I gave up trying to get a new wheel from ETA through my supplier. I did end up fixing it myself and getting it to work. A 7753 is a 7753, they are all the same, ETA only makes one type. It still amazes me that folks with no experience at all on watches try to do work themselves to try and save a few dollars, and in the end either ruin something or damage the watch and end up spending much more $$$ on the repair. Beyond basic stuff like removing a movement to get the dust off, or other simple issues, if you dont' have the experience or the tools, then leave it up to someone who does...in the end, you don't save any money. Sorry to hear about your issue, but there is no fix and no parts... And for the record, the 30 minute wheel is easy to get at, and only required the dial and one plate be removed, less than 1% of the watch has to come apart to get at this part and repair it...your watchmaker is bullshitting you and padding the work amount. Lesson is, if you dont' have the experience, or worse yet, if you have to ask how to do something, your in over your head...take some courses and learn all you can and practice before you attempt home made watch repairs... I see this type of stuff all the time and it just baffles me as to why... RG
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Glad to hear it's all going to work out... On the date and day changing via the crown in the second position, that is a common problem on these models, I see it very often, it's simply a defect on some of these models and on some you can fix it, and on others it can't be fixed. The bridge that holds the quick set date gear in place is very critical when you reinstall it, if it's not just right, then the quick set date gear can't pivot on it's pin and you get the problem you had... RG
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True the new 7750 @ 28,800 has a good cannon pin, but that fact only means I don't have to stake it and fix it... Changing the time on any watch wears out the cannon pin, so the comment is applicable to all watches, not only Asian 7750's. Some pins can be tightened (ie 6497 models), some can't (2836), others are a pain to tighten (7750's)... You really notice it on older watches, where the cannon pin is so worn out the watch runs but the hands dont' move...the only time the cannon pin is wearing out, is when you set the time, it's just a good practice that's all... RG
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Great topic, difficult decision... 1. Omega 007 - the original hard to get ones with the 2892 movement and almost perfect everything. Great looking watch, understated, beautiful bracelet (Rolex could take a lesson from Omega), not too big or too small. 2. PAM 188 - original model, silver dial, first generation 7750 and all the warts. Why this one? Simple, it was serviced right after I bought it, and after 18 months of use and abuse, I still can't get it to break or fail, and believe me I have tried and tried. It looks nice, works perfect, and was good value for the money. 3. MBW Yachtmaster - great fit and finish, beautiful dial, and the one that gets the most comments as a striking watch. It looks good, works good, and is simply a beautiful piece. Bracelet is almost as nice as the Omega. RG
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You should keep the amount of movement by setting the time to a minimum on this model, see here for details as to why, the more you change the time, the more the time is set, the more you wear out the cannon pin...Basic information No. No Unlikely as the datewheel position is predetermined and not adjustable or moveable...it is what it is, and you can't change it. The only thing you can change is the position of the dial in relation to the datewindow, and on a chrono, your limited in the amount of movement you can get, due to the subdials... If it's like this now, it was like that when it left the person who serviced it... Who serviced the watch? Did you see it before it was serviced, or only after? The fix would require taking the hands and dial off, cutting the dial feet off, seeing if you can get enough movement to line the datewindow up while still keeping the subdial hands in a good position and not jammed up against the holes in the dial for the subdial posts and hands...and then if you can line everything up, glue the dial to the movement and reassemble the watch... I just finished a Breitling that had this identical problem, I was lucky as I was able to move the dial as I described above, and still get everything to work... Curious to know who did the work, I am guessing it wasn't me...or I would have heard about it, and I dont' think I have ever seen a Bentley GT or worked on one... If you can't post who did the work, no harm done... RG
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I would mention 3 things. 1. The cannon pin will be loose, ETA parts dont' fit, it has to be staked lightely to tighten it up, if not staked, it will slip and your watch will not tell the correct time. 2. Pallet stones should be glued as the varnish they use is bad, I leave the varnish in place, and put some glue on the back of the stones. 3. Do NOT clean the balance and [censored] or the pallet arm in the ultrasonic machine, they will be damaged if you do... Other than this, it's just like any other 7750... RG
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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Which Screw To Rotate To Release Crown Stem On 2892a2?
RWG Technical replied to sssurfer's topic in Watch Repair & Upgrade
Great.... There is no reason to press on this pin to install the stem on a 2892, it's got very light spring pressure, as long as the watch is in the winding position, then insert the stem carefully, and rotate it as you put it in, and keep pushing gently and you will hear it click in place... I never press on this release on this model, it works just fine... RG -
Which Screw To Rotate To Release Crown Stem On 2892a2?
RWG Technical replied to sssurfer's topic in Watch Repair & Upgrade
That is because it's not a screw, it's a pin release... move the rotor on the opposite side of the stem, follow the stem into the watch with the stem pointing up...as you get to the bridge above the mainplate, on your left of the center line for the stem, is a small notch and a pin in the center, this is the stem release......to the right of it you should see the black screw for the autowinding bridge... Press ONLY WITH a 1.00 mm Screwdriver, the screwdriver should go to each end of the SLOT, if not, it's too small and you will mess it up... The 2892 takes very little pressure to release with the stem in the winding position, press gently while pulling on the stem and it will come out... NO small screwdrivers, and you should be fine. RG -
I would wear them, but would consider having them serviced within 5 years. The oils in the jewels and the grease in the mainspring will be dry in 5 years, that is a given. If the movements are automatic, then at the 5 year mark, the mainspring will need to be changed so that the timekeeping is accurate. But in the end, it's a personal choice, if after 27 years of use, and no service, the movement finally dies, you can always replace it...if you can find one... What happens to oils and movements running dry is well known, what you do about it - if anything - is a personal choice...of course I like the fact that the watch is clean, oiled, adjusted and should perform well for me...but then I am biased when it comes to servicing... I have seen many old movements that have not been serviced, although they are working (sort of) as soon as you take them apart, you can see all the worn out parts and pieces, and replacing them is very costly, and in some cases impossible as parts are not available. Worn out parts can be avoided with regular service, but if you have a run of the mill ETA you may not care... Consider though that ETA is getting out of the business of selling movements, already I can't get ETA 7753 parts from ETA, according to ETA the 7753 is no longer in production. Also consider that many of the movements sold are surplus, my supplier has for example two types of movements, "Others" and "Swiss", the Swiss ones are direct from ETA (which will not apply in a few years when they stop selling outside the Swatch Groupe), the "Others" are surplus...of unknown condition... Other movements are 1/2 of the price quoted for "Swiss" ones.... For my money, servicing avoids all the problems with worn out parts and non-availibity...I always will have oil and grease, but that may not be the case with some parts...with regular service, I know my watches will be able to run for many years... RG
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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That is a great price, and it's hard to know if the price reflects the actual work he says he will do... Unfortunatly there is no way to know if the work was done, unless you can have a look when it's torn down to pieces...otherwise, you have to go on your gut feeling... Reality is, anyone can change whatever they want to charge...I could charge $1 for a 7750 overhaul... Would I? Not likely, but I could if I wanted to... If you can, have a look at his shop before you give up your watch for service, you can quickly tell if he tears them down by looking around... RG
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Piece of cake for your local guy, he should have no problems... Just make sure he glues the pallet stones and does not clean them in the ultrasonic machine...other than this, it's just like an ETA. @pugwash Yours is the pristine one, couple of minor issues which I have fixed, email with full hard-to-read-details sent...running great on the bench... RG
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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A 7750 is a 7750 they are all basically the same...except for as follows... All 7750 Asian models are advertized by the dealers as 7750's, when in fact there is only one true 7750, that is one with subdials at 6-9-12, anything else is NOT a 7750...ie a 188/196 is NOT a 7750, the layout is that of a 7753...I stress layout, the movement is a basterdized 7750 and no where near the design of a ETA 7753... So your question is dependant on the model your referring to...anything other than a true 7750 layout is going to mess with your watchmakers mind...and due to the modifications to the movement will test his ability to think outside the box and get 1. the movement apart, and 2. back together, and 3. deal with the quirks that an Asian model presents that an ETA doesnt'... So other than the fact there is only one true 7750 model (subdials at 6-9-12), there are some area's that are problematic on Asian models that are not a problem on an ETA. 1. All Asian 7750's except for the new 28,800 BPH models have junk cannon pins, they slip. You have to stake them to get them tightened up...and an ETA part will NOT fit a Asian one, so if he breaks it while trying to tighten it up, he's SOL...remember these people are used to simply replacing the defective part with an ETA one...no can do on these ones...you have to come up with a repair, which I have done... 2. Most need to have the pallet stones re-glued in the pallet arm, they are loose... Other than these issues, and of course some unconventional parts depending on the model, and coming up with a way to get it all torn down and back together, it's a piece of cake... In the past two days I have serviced 2 Asian 7750's, one was a complete basket case, rust, defective parts, removal of metal needed on some plates to get the parts to work, dirty as hell, datewindow off center etc...your run of the mill watchmaker will be tested if he gets one of these, becasue ETA models dont' have these issues, and also I have spare parts and in this example I replaced many parts to get this fellows watch up and running... Fixing a basket case required custome work, something not everyone is willing to do or capable of... The second example I am servicing right now is perfect...so it runs the extreme of crap to pristine... Got to run, watches waiting and I am leaving for holidays soon... Cheers, RG
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
That is excellent reliability, poor kruzer00 has had no luck with 7750's - they all fail...maybe it's his magnetic personality. It's a personal choice, there is no right or wrong answer when the "Servicing" question is asked. If asked "Why" then it's nice to know what is normally found during the teardown of these movements. For the record, the dirt issue has been much improved during the past 8 months, I find only small fillings, no big chunks anymore... I agree that it's a bargain overall, and on some models, it's better to replace the asian 7750 with a swiss one. I have done that modification to a number of Breitlings with the real 7750 layout (12,9, and 6 subdials). Again it's a choice, some elect to have the Asian serviced, some buy a new ETA 7750, and have me replace it...whatever turns your crank...in the end we all get to wear and enjoy our watches and that is what is really important. -
Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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Why Do You Have To Service A 7750 Before Wear?
RWG Technical replied to Alan_Schezar's topic in Movement Q&A
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