RWG Technical

It may not have been up when you looked... If I missed a step, let me know... RG

It's all a learning curve, and don't get discouraged at all by the mistakes... You may have seen some of my lume work of late, but what you don't see is my own personal watches that were damaged as I practiced and taught myself to lume, and I am an artist and accomplished oil painter as well, so I can do some fine work, but lume is really hard... Everyone starts somewhere, and just because someone can do something you can't - remember they were in your place at one time, don't let it get you down... Quality tools, asking if your not sure, and taking your time and being careful to never force anything, and you will catch on. Having the correct attitude helps, and being willing to try, go a long way to being successful.... Don't give up, it's very satisfying when it starts coming together... RG

Thanks for the kind words, I hope this encourages more of the members to share their expertise with the family we have here. The more we share, the better we all are in the end... I have more idea's in the works, just need to find the time that's all... RG

It's up in the above section, have a look "How to uncase a PAM with an ETA movement..." RG

You need to order the correct longer ones at 3.15 and 2.15mm in length... It won't work without the longer cannon and hour wheel as you need the height above the dial to be able to cut the hand tubes down and get them closer to the correct length. I can't help you with that part, you have to take your time with any watch work, buy good quality tools, read how to do the procedures, and practice and learn the skills. Nothing should ever touch the dial face, nothing should ever be forced. If you try and force anyting in watch work, you will end up with damage somewhere... RG

Thanks for the comments, and I am glad you got something out of them. Glad to hear you enjoy my CAD drawings, I am getting better at them... RG

Thanks for the comments, more to come, and I hope you can get something from the information. Cheers, RG

Here's my genuine for comparison, too big for me, so I'll probably part with it some day... My wrists are 6.75", so I think you have to be a really big fellow to pull one of these off... RG

The probability of any Asian movement having the same hand size as a Swiss movement are remote. Exceptions being the copies of the 6497, 7750 etc... I am not familiar with these new asian movement in the PAM's, if it's an automatic model, the hands are most likely this size: Seconds 0.18mm Minute 1.00mm Hour 1.55mm 6497 hands are Seconds 0.26mm Minute 1.15mm Hour 2.00mm Not sure if this helps, as I am not sure what movement were talking about... RG

EDIT Just noted the video, my comments were more directed towards a large center seconds design, not so much the one you have with seconds at 9 (I did not know the layout of the dial from your initial comments). The seconds on this one are from the second wheel, and it should NOT be jumpy like this, my above comments are for center seconds, not these. Looks like the hand is loose on the shaft... I doubt the movement is acting this way, as it would probably stop, so my guess is a hand issue... RG

Well typically Asian models use inderect center seconds, in other words, a large diameter gear driving a small one... This problem you identified is probably related to gravity, if the hand is going against gravity it tends to be smooth, if going towards it, it tends to be jumpy. All becasue of the type of drive and the spacing between the driven and driving gears. Try this, hold the watch horizontal with the dial facing you, look at it as it goes from 6-12 is it smooth? Now watch it as it goes from 12 -6 is it jumpy? My guess is yes. Running in, overhaul, oil, whatever, will not correct this, it's the way it is. The Genuine Miyota manual movement is the same design as this one, and does the same thing, maybe not as pronounced, but still there... You can't fix it, and it does not affect accuracy or reliability. RG

Let me guess, you just came back from a screening of Brookback Mountain... I really appreciate the offer, but it's really not me, I am more of a "Forget-me-not" type of fellow... RG

You have your own reserved area on the workbench waiting for it's arrival... RG

I invited myself to the party...with discussions with some of the mods and lessons learned from the old RWG... The old RWG is gone and so are the issues that caused me to leave it...I made a lot of mistakes there, and will do better here... I have thought this over and decided to offer what I can, and will post some details later on once I get things sorted out... I am humbled that you noted my posts and that I am here, I have some stuff in the works that will hopefully be of benifit to the members here... As always, RG

Thanks, it's a new forum, a new approach from me, and I hope I can contribute and help where I can in my area's of interest. Now I have to find a new Avitar that will reflect who I am... RG

Always cut longer than needed, always cut longer than you need...very important point. Use side cutters, preferably sharp ones, and once cut, file the cut part down with a fine file until the threads are flush (the cutter will damage and crush the threads, if you try and thread it in the crown before filing, you will damage the crown threads). Insert stem, test fit in watch, and repeat if necessary, if it's only out a small length, file the extra off rather than recut with cutters, otherwise it will be too short (trust me on this one). RG

Need to know the following: Are these Daytona's with running seconds at 6 or at 9? Are they manual wind Venus 175 models or 7750's? I have serviced dozens and dozens of 7750's, all types, in all models of watches. The Daytona's with running seconds at 6 with the Asian 7750 in them are problematic (as are the Swiss ones), for many reasons (of which would take too long to discuss in detail). On these I have gotten some to work, and others I have had to disable the running seconds as it was a defect, but the rest of the chrono and watch works as it should, it was do this modification or have a non-working watch. I still service these models, and normal turn time is 10 days for each watch, that is for a full overhaul, and all the other normal servicing items that get taken care of as part of servicing. If I can help let me know on PM, get the one you have been waiting on for 5 months back, and let me take care of it for you, so you can enjoy your watches and not have them as paperweights... RG