RWG Technical

Very interesting. No, I haven't seen this one, and it's the first I have heard of it. The autowinder looks like a copy of the El Primero type, given that this movement is very reliable and well built, this is good news. Too bad the sub dial spacing is such that it's not usable in many of our watches. THanks for this Gran.

My guess would be that this is referring to the height of the GMT/cannon/hour/seconds posts/gears. If you remove the GMT gear and mic it, you will have your answer.

Haven't ever been asked by my supplier, but they are independent of Swatch.

Vac's name is not mentioned anywhere in the post. Actually, I have to take credit for the lume job, since it is my handiwork...

It looks great all together, the strap is a great choice, and your photography skills are excellent, very well done. Congrats and wear it well.

Understood, that would explain why it's broken, with that many mods to any movement, it's a time bomb...

I wouldn't waste any time or energy trying to fix or understand the movement. Your best value, is to replace the movement with a genuine Miyota 8215, normally the Miyota is direct fit, or needs only slight modifications to fit.

As I stated earlier, this can all be put to rest by one of Neil's friends - who is a regular member of this forum - posting and telling us what he knows... That has yet to take place, until that happens, I am still not convinced of anything either way.

That's not the insert, that's the dial rehaut, you'll not find it as a stand alone piece, you need a complete new dial which includes the ring. Remind me to NEVER use your Hair Dryer...holy crap...when the case turned red it should have been a sign. The movement may be damaged as well, mainsprings and especially hairsprings don't respond well to heat, it takes the temper out of them.

Thanks, Yes, I painted the hands the lighter blue, and the subdial section also.

PDF is probably not a lot of use, there are many detailed articles about the A7750 here...

If the hour and minutes work, then the second hand wheel has to be turning. The hand may not be turning, but the wheel has to be. Which means that the hand is not connected to the second wheel post for some reason. As for the date not turing by the crown, that is most likely a problem with the quickset date gear, if the keyless does everything else (wind and set the time) then the only possible problem is the date quickset gear itself. The quickset date sounds fairly normal, but the seconds hand seems really strange, did anyone work on the watch, or was it dropped?

I agree, A7750.

Sorry I am late to the party... Here are my favorites, all of them are custom built by my own hands. First up is my "Stealth PAM 212" After a lot of discussion, I decided to paint the subdial and center seconds hand, so this was the end state... Next is my custom Fiddy. And finally, another Fiddy based custom, with a Ross dial, and a turn of the century movement...

I am up to my you know what in my day job right now, I will however get some pics taken and do something up of my top few...it will be later this week though... Great stuff so far, good topic as well, well done hackR!

Your very welcome, best to be armed with some insight now and then...but then Pug knows all about getting the truth out...

"spray a little silicone.."...

The silicone is not what makes it waterproof, the gasket does. The reason to put silicone on the gaskets is to lubricate them, that's all, it does nothing towards making anything waterproof. I see many movements damaged from members thinking the more silicone they jam into the crown and tube or the caseback the more waterproof the watch will be. The silicone should only be rubbed on the rings, it should look "wet" if you see chunks or blobs of silicone, you have way too much applied... Silicone is next to impossible to remove, and will destroy the watch cleaning fluid, so use with caution. To make the pushers waterproof, disassemble them (by removing the screw or C clip), then inspect and replace if needed the orings, rub a light coating of silicone on the o'ring, and re-assemble and test, there isn't much more you can do.

Why not simply ask Narikaa, Reg, isn't he one of Neil's good friends? He's also here most days on the forum...

Great results, well done.

Very impressive, well done.

Great photo's, you did an excellent job of capturing the green of C1 and the blue of BG W9, well done.

You are correct, I do apply the clear matte finish after the lume.

Your not accepting any PM's so I'll post my message here. With only me and Vac on the forum, that statement pretty well narrows down who you contacted and were "rejected" by. On the 25 Jan 2009 (give or take a day) you contacted me on PM. Once I received your email address, on the 26 Jan 2009 we sent you an email with my complete capability and price list, I have the sent email in my yahoo email folder. We never heard back from you, either via email or PM. Until today, I did not know that you hadn't received my information. A simple PM stating "Hey, I never received your email..." would have been appreciated. And before you add, "Well why didn't you follow up to make sure I got your information..." the reality is that there are plenty of tire kickers and deadbeats that stand me up, all the time, the same as any modder experiences. Thank you for giving me the benifit of the doubt instead of making assumptions. It's not like either of us just joined the forums...and for the record - unless I am away from home for my day job on travel status - lumes are taken in immeditaly. Have a Merry Christmas.

Looks great, glad you didn't sell the 7753 after all...