RWG Technical

Hard to tell without actually having the watch in hand... 2 options. 1. The movement comes out towards the front and the bezel has to be removed, 2. More than likely it's just snug fitting and comes out the back, place a screwdriver in the area where the stem is inserted, you want the screwdriver to fit in between the case and what looks like the movement ring, gently pry up and see what happens. If you look at your picture starting at the bottom you have a silvery case tube, then you have the case itself, then you can see the silvery case tube again, then the movement spacer, and then a black rectangle. Where I want you to place the screwdriver is in the second space from the bottom the silvery area between the case and the movement ring. If no 2 doesn't work, then it's most likely the first option. RG

There is only one watchsmith I would recommend, that is Vaccum. I have seen the work of others... RG

My mistake, I misread the first post. I read it as saying that it reset to 3 even after running it...sorry. In that case, if it doesnt' move at all then you need to have someone who is qualified take the movement apart and find the problem, it could be a number of issues causing this, not a DIY project. RG

Great link, thanks. Some nice set up Archer has there, very very nice, lots of cash spend on the benches and storage cabinets. RG

All you had to do was ask...the package was delivered on friday...a simple email would have answered your question. Tracking only works some of the time...

The hand is installed at the wrong position. Remove the hand with the chrono reset, and reinstall the hand at 12. RG

Only ever remove a stem in the winding position, the time setting position is the worst possible position to have the keyless works in when you remove the stem. This is one of the old wives tales that simply won't go away, that and overwinding a watch...only ever remove a stem in the winding position. You have to disassemble the watch enough to see what the problem is with the keyless works, and fix it. Sorry to say there is not other solution. RG

3 months = over 90 A7750's serviced...keeping really busy, I didn't know we had that many members in the EU who needed their 7750's serviced. Also mentioned a number of problems and issues with the A7750, but not one of the issues was one of the ones I have seen during the past 4 years of servicing this model?? Not sure what to make of any of it. RG

The oils are going to dry up and turn hard and slightly acidic during that time, you can't avoid it. If you were doing this from scratch, then I would suggest that the best option would be a completely dry movement, with no oils anywhere. In other words, tear it down, clean and rinse it, assemble without any oils. If there is no oil, it can't dry up and turn hard. Getting it running again would be simple, a slight teardown to apply the required oils, and your off to the races... Sealed with a dessicant is mandatory to ensure no corrosion. RG

Only a few of the ETA 6497 parts will interchange with the Asian 6497. So from a purely practical sense, if it was me, I would buy the ETA, because I know I will be able to have it serviced, and any parts needed will always be available. $80 does justify the cost if you consider replacement parts, and if your Asian breaks and you have no parts, you have a paperweight not a timepiece. RG

I think you have to separate "Swiss" from "ETA". ETA has factories all over the world, including Thailand... Don't think of Swiss but think of the maker of the movement. Same as Honda is not really Japanese if the Honda is made in the USA or Canada?? It's still a Honda. So the question is, does the ETA watch have a real ETA inside. The answer is certainly "Yes". Is it worth the extra $80? Consider that we are talking about a handwind simple movement, if the A7750 - a chrono and automatic with many complications - is a good quality movement, then the simple Asian 6497 handwind has to be good as well... Why not invest the $80 into your Asian movement and have it serviced? You would be much further ahead... RG

You can't install the overlay because of the extra gear for the GMT function. The overlay jams up against the gear...so no overlay is possible unless the overlay is the same ID and OD as the original DW. RG

Asian 7750's are not timebombs at all, they are very well built and reliable movements. Did you completely take the movement apart, clean it, and then re-assemble and oil it? If you didn't do this, your adding oil just made your problem worse...you can't oil any movement until it's clean and dry. RG

It sounds like your reversing click wheel is sticking, the only fix is to take the movement apart, clean the reversing wheel and autowinder gears, lubricate them, and put it back together. If you feel resistance when handwinding, DON"T do it, you will strip the teeth from the gears and ruin the autowinder. RG

Do nothing... RG

No, it won't work... I have done 2 of these mods, and the last one took 15 hours, and at least 5 doner A7750's to get it to work...save your sanity, don't even go there...look at what happened to me RG

It's probably a 2- piece stem, you need end nippers to pull the stem and crown out, and separate it from the other half of the stem in the movement. Nippers on the crown and you pull it out... Once the stem is out, the movement falls out no problem. Without the watch in hand, that is my best guess, 2 piece stems were very popular on many vintage watches. RG

Well this one was certainly not without it's quirks and issues... It only proves once again, that what works on one watch, is meaningless towards another when it comes to upgrades or parts swaps...there is no consistency or rules and this watch proved it - 3 times no less. Too bad I didn't get frequent flyer miles for this one, I could be on a beach down south right about now RG

Why thank you. Sometimes it works, but other times the truth is not so popular, like a show and tell that reveals a modder who is doing shoddy work and hasn't a clue, or when a particular movement or watch is crap and I do a detailed post...in those cases the response is not so flavorable (Little Hero stuff comes to mind as I type this...but lets savor that one for another day...). RG

The cost is all relative though... When I worked in Koh Samui, the yearly wage was under $1000, $60 would be a lot of money. In Signapore $60 would probably get you a Happy Meal at McD's...so $170 in Signapore is a great deal given the location. RG

To each his own, some will simply buy a new watch vs ever having it serviced, or as you say, get it taken care of on site where they are produced (although not everyone has that option). There is no right or wrong, it's what works for you...I know many who never service and have no problems with their A7750's... RG

Well, if she says I "deserve it" then I guess I better make that call... While I am at it, I think I'll drop in to "Direct Buy" and get some real sales pressure tactics and hand over $5000 for my 3 year membership... RG

That is a good price, but it's quite a bit lower than the standard going rate for a commercial shop, in fact it's less than 50% of what most commercial shops charge for a chronograph service. As long as your confidant he's not going to perform a "swish and dip" service, it's a good deal. I would be very interested to hear what his comments are when he is finished the service, the A7750 presents some "interesting" challenges to anyone who tears them down...it's no ETA... RG

Grease isnt' going to quiet it down and applying grease is never a good idea at the best of times. Many have had the grease go where it shouldn't and then the watch is very quiet...since it doesnt' run at all. The noise on these models is normally due to the design of the click spring that ratchets as the rotor winds the movement, it can't be fixed - it's the way it is... RG

Yours looks like the first version, if you look at the markers (like the one that fell off) see if the marker is all white and doesn't have a clear piece of plastic on it. The newer ones are easy to see because the marker has white on it, but it's clear plastic also. From a side view, the older model markers look like white chaulk with no clear section. RG