RWG Technical

I have done these types of repairs in the past, mostly on genuine dials where you can't replace them. It is next to impossible to not have your repair visible, so if you can source another dial with no damage, that is your best value. If this dial is irreplaceable, then attempting a repair is probably your only option... RG

Well done, results speak for themselves. Great job. RG

Congrats, it looks great, and I too find that there is a real difference in feel and fit and finish between the reps and gen's. Wear it in good health. RG

An unserviced movement is an unknown... This particular movement was seized solid when it arrived in the shop...after clean and oil, it's working perfect, go figure?? RG

In my view this movement isn't a ticking time bomb at all, in fact as I stated, it's an excellent design as good as the running seconds at 3 model. The failure rate of A7750's after I service them is less than 1%, the failure rate of the running seconds at 3 models I have serviced is 0%. There are only 2 gears out of the 5 that drive the running seconds that are not jeweled. The friction from those two gears is not enough to affect the running of the movement, that is not going to change over time, meaning the longer the watch runs those gears are not going to cause problems. If there was enough friction to affect the movement, I would see it visually when I inspected the balance swings, as well as on the watch analyzer. I am first and foremost a watchsmith, I base my findings on what I see, and what my testing shows. It's not subjective, meaning that I measure and test each and every part and piece of the movement as it's assembled, any problem along the way, I can see it and know why it happened. This movement is well designed, and in 4 years of providing these reviews, I think my experience and track record speaks for itself. It's up to the members to decide where they want to spend their money...I gave a poor/terrible rating to the GMT 2836 basterdized movement, and the seconds at 6 Daytona's, that doesn't seem to have affected sales because people keep on buying them, so this review is no different in my view. You (the members) will buy whatever you want to buy, no matter what I, or anyone else says... If someone else wants to present their arguments why this movement is no good, and back it up with supporting data, I welcome the input, as will everyone. I stripped this movement completely, cleaned it, and then assembled it in sections, tested each and every new piece as it was installed, and in the end, it's working perfect, the watch analyzer doesn't lie, I have nothing more to add of any value... RG

Your hand is touching something. Take the movement out of the case and see what happens...it keeps running because the cannon pin is slipping. RG

The raised section I am referring to is on the plate, under the gear...you can't see it unless the gear is removed. In those pics you can see the hollowed out top part for when your upside down wearing your watch. @JohnCraig No need to be formal, we all belong to the same forum so that's good enough for me to be casual. RG

My pleasure, always willing to lend a hand to another watchsmith. RG

Spray alone will not cover up that damage, and even painting the damage and then clear coating will not hide the damage. Think of it like a car, a big dent and rust, you can spray paint over it all, but it's still visible... RG

nmj

m

Welcome back...just like old times... RG

Your crown stem clutch is defective or the stem is cut too short. The stem should disengage from the crown when you press it in to screw it down, but even if yours is not disengaging, the amount of winding your doing to the movement while screwing the crown is nothing to worry about. You will cause more damage by leaving the crown unscrewed and allowing dirt and moisture to enter the case. RG

There could be dozens of reasons why it stopped working. Other than trying to hand wind it and see if that makes any difference, the only solution is to have a watchmaker open it up and see what is going on... RG

Great workmanship as always, they look wonderful. RG

Wow, thanks so much for the endorsement. As I stated in the original post, I wanted to set the record straight, and showcase the quality of my work. I think this and the Cousteau bezels, and the lettering changes on T dials should set the record straight of what I can accomplish and the quality that I can achieve, all freehand I might add... RG

Obviously you cared about it enough to pass on your problems and blame me for your datewheel defects. Ok, since you want to pass on your problems and blame someone else, I'll clear the air. The simple fact is that 90% of your Datewheels were/are defective: - printed incorrectly, some dates are centered in the window, some are high, others are low, all on the same datewheel - printed incorrectly and all the dates are low in the window - printed incorrectly and all the dates are high in the window - paint over the teeth and causing jamming up of the wheel - paint on the bottom of the datewheel causing jammin up I don't like to waste anyone's money, and I like even less to waste my time. After multiple failures and many returns where I had to fix problems caused by your defective datewheels at my cost, I stopped installing them. I made no secret of these problems and posted the results here on RWG, and told my customers as well. I did try many datewheels when they were sent in to me along with other work, each and every one was installed, and 90% were removed because they were defective. So let me make sure the membership of RWG knows the truth, somehow it's my fault you manufactured datewheels that were defective, and sent them out to the members (even those that a simple visual inspection where the teeth were all covered in paint and the datewheel was unusable were sent out). If you ever make datewheels that aren't defective, of course I - and every other watchmaker - will have no problem installing them. Let me finish by adding that it's YOUR responsiblity to do the required research and make sure your product works as it should. RG

I understand that a couple of weeks ago, on a forum far far away...someone asked a question: "Who does the best lume?" Of course the answers came from the forum members who recommended a number of modders, one of which happened to be none other than yours truly. Some jabs were thrown my way, and someone posted a number of my lume shots, without stating who did the work. Seeing the pictures and the quality of the workmanship, most thought that it was Kent of Everest watchworks who did the work. When it was pointed out that the work was mine, more jabs and insults were thrown my way... So lets set the record straight, sometimes you need to show off, and this is one of those times, so bear with me I have been an artist since I could pick up a pencil and paper, with that in mind I want to start out with a 036. This is a Tritium dial so I lumed it in Tritium Super Luminova mix, and changed the lettering to "T Swiss T". I am still waiting for someone else to lume a Cousteau bezel so I can see if anyone else has mastered that mother of all lume jobs...sausage dials have nothing on that baby...sorry I digress... B&R Some claim the true test of an "artist" is sausage lume...so the to the title of the post, here is my "Artistic" rendition of a B&R. NOTE the close up daylight shots, anyone who posts glow only pictures of their lume work is hiding his workmanship. EXPOSURE OF 0.5 Seconds, no "Turbo" scam overexposed shots to fool you into thinking I stole some nuclear waste... So there is my rant, and I hope you like the B&R as much as I do, I think it turned out great. Now the downside of course is that unlike a true artist who makes customers wait for months, the owner of this B&R, (who's watch arrived yesterday and will be in his hands before the end of next week), will probably suffer a stroke when the watch arrives in his hands in 2 weeks, not 2 months...sorry...I went as slow as I could If you wanted to wait for months for your lume, you should have gone somewhere else , I take lume work in anytime and turn it in around in aprox 2 weeks... Thanks for reading. RG

.

Beautiful, incredible work. RG

Applied the same as Super Lume, as long as you don't eat it or get it on your skin, it's harmless...and the stuff I scraped up is old and long past it's prime anyway. Now Radium is another story... RG

I think your right on Bob, and some pics if needed to go along would be helpful. If you need pics or more details via email, let J know and I'll get them sent. RG

I am not sure how the AD service vs dealer system works. Certainly it would be of interest to someone in Rolex to know about the lack of quality that this shop is putting out... I know if I was Rolex I wouldn't want anything with my name on it attached to this type of shoddy work. RG

Understood, good place to avoid at all costs. My guess is that they did a swish and lube and only took apart the easy stuff, mainspring wasn't touched and they simply washed the complete autowinder and never lubricated it, going train was oiled, but the balance was left alone... Very sad to see a AD do such shoddy work and charge like hell for it. Wonder how Rolex would feel knowing that thier rep is doing crap. RG

I think the reason that Nanuq doesn't want to out the previous shop is that it's more than likely a genuine AD shop somewhere...and probably no one here would be sending their watch to them anyway...that's only a guess - Bob only knows. And of course I am never happy to receive crappy work in the shop, in fact I try and avoid it at all costs...but with most gen's, especially high end models, you would expect better quality. @ automatico Thanks for the insight and possible repair's. It's only slightly worn and I tend to see this type of wear on the bridge on almost every old rollie in the shop, I prefer to leave it as is since the bushing won't wear anymore now that it's clean and oiled. RG