RWG Technical

If you pulled the movement out of the case, this means that the crown is not stuck anymore...so I don't understand why you are taking the rest of the watch apart. How did the crown get stuck in the first place? Had you done any work to the watch prior to it sticking? Did it work fine and all of a sudden jam up? Why do you think the keyless works is the problem and not the crown itself? By "stuck" does this mean you can't wind, set the date, or change the time on the watch? If you could do these functions, your keyless works are working just fine and the problem is not in there. If you couldn't get the crown to work with the movement in the case, now that you have removed it from the case, did you reinstall the crown and stem into the movement and test the keyless works functions before tearing more of the watch apart? That would be the next step. If the keyless works fine with the movement out of the case, then your problem is not the keyless works... Successful troubleshooting means describing in detail what the problem is, and approaching the fix in a logical manner. As someone already said, if your crown was stuck, the first question from anyone would been "Have you unscrewed the crown..." RG

I think you have a few options: 1. Find out what is loose, not running, and ratteling all point to a loose rotor as already mentioned. Open the caseback and see what is going on. 2. Try manual winding the watch, 20-30 full winds. At least this narrows down what the problem could be, either a winding problem, or a movement problem. 3. If the movement is FUBAR, you can always replace it with a Miyota 8215 as Pix said, a great option. So all is not lost, and your money is not wasted. Just a setback that's all... RG

Great post, wonderful pictures, well done. RG

Beautiful job finishing the assembly, that pearl is spot on - great job! RG

Well the 2836-2 as made by ETA doesn't have a GMT capability, but the Asians have modified the movement to give it a GMT capability. It works just like a GMT should, but the quality of the modification varies from poor to very well done...and the only way to know this, is to remove the dial and have a look at the movement itself. Which is probably not an option in this case... You don't hear of many folks with problems with these movements, so it's probably fine. RG

No worries... RG

Well that is not good at all... Members need to be aware of this, I am sure the crowns are not cheap. RG

I would say 90% of the aftermarket crowns I have received, are defective. The defect is the same on all of them, they are drilled crooked where the stem inserts into them. These are the "Palp" or "PAM" crowns that are being sold. I just got 3 more of them in for installation, and the owner was hoping that at least one would be usable, have a look at what I got. CROWN 1 CROWN 2 CROWN 3 (installed on the watch, as it was the one with the less of a bend in it) How hard is it to screw a stem into the crown and test it before you ship it out? Or better yet, how hard is it to put drill the hole at a 90 degree angle to the crown face, so it's not defective. I am not sure of the price of these crowns, but this is unaceptable. Anyone else have or note this problem with theirs? RG

Scratches and lint are one thing...the missing cannon pin is another all together. Lets hope the dealer makes it right, but you have to wonder why this left the hands of the dealer in the first place. RG

Well I guess the good news, is that the 2842 is only a 10 year old movement, but the 2836-2 goes back 25 years...so you may have a much newer movement than if you bought a 2836-2 model. RG

oops, keyboard slip, I didn't scroll up high enough...I meant bruce79's pics...got you and his posts mixed up. RG

Thanks for the pictures fxrandy. @VW Don't misunderstand, there is nothing wrong with this movemnet, it's not a cheap quality ETA anymore than a 2836 is a cheap ETA. But it's not a 28.8k model, or what you were expecting to buy. RG

Well then it all makes sense now... If it's a 2842, it is 21.6K beat. A 2842 measures 5.2mm thick, a 2836-2 is 5.05mm and a 2824-2 is 4.8mm thick. So I would say your best option for an upgrade is a 2836-2. But, is it worth it? The 2842 is a Swatch exclusive movement, and if the dealers are installing these, it only confirms once again that we are at the mercy of the surplus market, and it seems as if the ETA's were used to having, are running out... RG

I think there are still a number of members who's property was never returned, as well as a number who paid in advance for datewheels and never got them, or their money. Then to the mix, add the many watches he ruined, including a ETA 7753 powered 188 that was destroyed by his incompetance (and you can't buy 7753 parts, so it's scrap, $1k down the drain). I hope someone from here or TRC puts up a show and tell on Paneresti to show who Mark really is, and the truth behind him. RG

I have been, and continue to help, many members from the UK and the EU. Shipping watches has never been a customs issue, either coming or going... If your going to remove the movement and have it serviced stand alone, beware of the big problem in installing a 7750, is that while handing it, you will move the beat arm and the movement will be out of adjustment. I have never been able to service a 7750, make all the adjustments, and then install it in the case, without affecting the beat and needing to re-adjust it when it's all cased up. The beat stud arm always gets bumped a little bit, and then it needs to be re-adjusted or the movement wont' run right. Which is why it's better to send a whole watch, not only a movement. I had someone in the EU send me a dial/movement assembly only, no case. Did the work that was requested, adjusted the movement, but when the owner installed the movement into the case, he had running problems because the beat arm had moved. RG

Your right. His constant excuse of "personal issues" preventing him from being able to stand up and post on RWG, and give members the goods and money he stole from them, was just that - an excuse. Now it looks like he's going to try and get in as a "fake" turned "I only own gen's now..." expert on the other forums. His excuse for not being able to give everyone back what he stole from them, would be easily fixed with a good kick in the groink. RG

Short answer - probably not, the hands are not that much longer so I doubt it would be very noticeable. I don't doubt that PT is an honest dealer, but you and I have been around long enough to know that what you think (or the dealers think) is the movement in the watch, can vary. I have seen it all, from asian copies of ETA's, to Sellita SW200's, to Asian movements... Only by opening the back will you know for sure what movement you have. It could also be that the beat is out on the movement (common problem) and this is causing the hesitation you see, or the movement could be dirty, the escape and pallets gummed up, etc... RG

A 7750 is a 7750, as long as it's a 12-9-6 true 7750 subdial layout, everything dimensionally is the same. Differences are: Old 21.6k A7750's have the same hand size as the ETA 7750, swapping is direct and straight forward. New 28.8K A7750's have different subdial and chrono seconds hand sizes, and need to be modified to fit the ETA. RG

No love lost from anyone on RWG about Mark. I like this statement from him "I actually taught myself watchmaking and can strip a 7750 if I need to because of this!!!" Sure Mark, you keep believing this...I have seen his work, he knows nothing about watchmaking except how to ruin people's watches and steal their money. He knows as much about watchmaking as I do about rocket science. Interesting that he's also an expert on Swatch and ETA as well as how reps are made, the steel they use etc... Funny how he has time to post and try and get attention on this forum, but won't stand up like a man and show his face on RWG, or give the members who were scammed their money and parts back. RG

I would not be relieved at all...your being mislead, maybe not intentionally, but mislead for sure. The ETA 2824 and 2836 are IDENTICAL movements, the only difference is that one has a day/date, and the other has date only. They have the identical gears, balance, escape wheel, etc, all identical parts, therefore there is no difference between the sweep of a 28XX series movement, all beat at 28.8K, and all tick the same. Certainly an ETA 28XX doesn't tick 3 times, stop and tick another 3 times, but some asian movements do...especially the indirect center seconds models. You may have a copy movement beating at 21,600 or something else...best to open the case back and see what's inside. RG

It pushes right out with the crystal press...no bezel removal needed. RG

@ harley How about opening the caseback and posting a picture of the Tudor 7750? RG

It should just pop out, I am not aware of any PAM model that requires the bezel be removed before pressing the crystal out. What model of watch is this? RG

I would say that your obvious option is to contact whoever "you know who" is? RG

Wow, I didn't know there was that much of an interest in this model, 500+ hits in a day, I get less hits with a technincal post...guess I know where the interest lies... As for the crown tube glue, I use Cyroacrylate (spelling?) instant glue to secure the tube to the case. As with anything you mod, trying to get gen parts to fit rep cases, you have to be careful, screw the crown down hard enough, and you'll pull the tube out of the case. In my experience with the latest Omega crowns and tubes, the problem never seems to be one of the crown not being able to be screwed into the tube (due to stripped threads, which is the common problem on a rollie), but the spring assembly on the crown is faulty and poor. It's too weak and what happens is that the crown becomes loose and doesn't engage into the stem. Most people (me included) are replacing the crowns and tubes from necessity, not astetics. I have replaced all my Omega crowns and tubes with gen's, it was that or put the watch away and not be able to wear it. RG