sishac

Hi everyone - last night I decided to try and remove the bezel of my asian 21j 1680 (from Reg) because I wanted to shave the crystal down a bit and age the insert. I used a case knife and popped the bezel up and off of the crystal from the 5 o'clock marker. When I took the bezel up, there was a ripped thin black gasket along the base of the crystal and nothing else. I went to put the bezel back on, expecting it to "click" on and it just sits there and doesn't attache to the case. Initially I didn't see the spring, but now that I do...an 8 sided spring...how do I get the bezel to attach to the watch using this spring? Also, I've read that a genuine watch uses a flat tension spring that goes around the crystal...this is what the bezel snaps into...assuming that my crystal is the right size (currently it has a Clark 127 that needs to be shaved down a bit), can I buy one of these tension springs (I saw one on ebay for $20) and use that over the crystal instead of using the 8 sided spring that is currently in the bezel? Thanks

Modem burner is just a saying (at least for me)....I'm a FIOS guy. Concerning the watch progress...honestly I've just been enjoying it and haven't done anything yet. I've worn it on an oyster bracelet, a black leather strap, and my favorite, a simple bond nato strap. I've gotten the new clark crystal, but I think that I am going to try and just sand down the original one first. Strangely enough, I've gotten used to the cyrstal height, but I it just seems a hair bit too high. My understanding is that a gen should have a thickness of 14mm...I don't have a digital caliper yet, but hopefully I will be able to just shave a mm or so off of the crystal to get to 14mm, and my date will be perfect and my height will look better. I've really been struggling with the whole crown guard thing....how do you think they look? They maybe seem a bit too long, but I was looking on some gen forums and they seem to always focus on the back of the watch.... As I said, I was told that the watch was from Reg...I don't know what version it is though...to me it looks a bit better than some of the other bargain reps, especially the lugs...I love the vanilla of the dial markers....better lume would be nice though. I don't know the dial size yet... Tom

Beautiful work RA....the 1675 you made for me caused me to go and buy a gen!!!

So I have to ask you where you got the dial from? It is my understanding that a gen dial (or even a Yuki, or JAW dial) won't fit as it is too small. I have one from Reg that RolexAddict worked over for me...he worked the bezel (now it sports an aftermarket insert of the right size), relumed the dial/hands so that it has a nice vintage glow, and installed a clark crystal. I love it on a jubilee bracelet so much that I am on the search for a gen!! Here is a photo:

Hi all - I bought a new clark 116 crystal for my 1655 and I'm having trouble removing the bezel. Can anyone give me any suggestions here. I would think that I just need to run a thin knife blade around the base of the bezel and eventually it would wedge itself in, but nothing of the sort? This bezel comes off, but how? Suggestions??? Thanks - Tom

So I recently picked up this red sub from another forum. It is from Reg, and it is an asian 21j version. I would love to hear from people if they think it is the new cartel version...I don't think so as the crown guards seem too long, but Reg sometimes gets some fun stuff (not a MBW of course, but a nice budget vintage I think.) I was up in the air between a 1680 and a 5513, and this came up. I bought it for 2 reasons....first, I didn't have a sub, and I LOVE the matte dial versions, and second, I really like a nice acryllic crystal...and this one had a clark 127 installed (although a bit high). I paid for the watch on Saturday night and by Tuesday, the watch was in my hands. It came on a nice heavy oyster bracelet, but I soon took it off and put it initially on an olive nato (too high I think) and then onto a simply black oiled strap...it looks great on that I think!! Anyway, the first thing that jumped out at me was the height of the crystal...the previous owner had mentioned that he didn't shave the crystal at all, and he gave me an idea as to how to do that...so that is on my to do list. In the future, I might try to put a 5513 superdome on it just to see how it looks..I loose the magnification, but I've always loved a domed crystal. After examining the watch the biggest thing that jumps out at me (other than the crystal) is the date magnification...its HUGE almost to the point of being unreadable...I'm pretty sure that is a function of the clark 127 crystal, and the fact that it is slightly too high at this point. All of the gen 1680s I've seen have great magnification, and on another forum I was told that is one of the things the 1680 are known for. The other thing that I noticed is that the crown guards are nice and long...I've been looking at this for a while and wanted people's opinion as to how they look...I know that they should be straight (and not curved) on the outside, but to my untrained eye, they look pretty good. So, this is what I plan on doing to this watch eventually: 1. shave down crystal to a slightly lower height (14mm total watch thickness?) 2. slightly age the case by putting it in a box of coins, screws and such and shaking it up for a while...then polishing the watch with a cape cod cloth...also cutting down the sharp edges of the case with a nailfile. 3. slightly aging the insert by putting it in a solution of 50% water and 50% bleach...waiting until I start to see a swirl of paint and then removing it to an all water bath 4. oiling the bracelet and softening the edges a bit. Oh, I almost forgot...its got a 2.5mm serial number...I believe that is 1969-1970 production...which I think it correct for a red sub!! Crazy right?! So, on to the pictures...

The watch looks GREAT!!! Can you please tell me how high that 127 sits above the bezel? Or even, how thick the watch is from bottom to top? I've got a Clark 127 in a 1680 from Reg and the crystal needs to be shaved down (it is WAYYY to tall) and I'm just trying to figure out how much the crystal should be rasied from the bezel. Thanks in advance! Tom

Love my Railmaster...doesn't get a whole lot of wrist-time though (so if you're interested, PM me)....this is from Ruby from a few years back....verified gen swiss movement, but it is the gold colored movement...I have a blue Aqua Terra that has the silver movement...I believe that they are supposed to be ETA 2892, but in reality are a Seagul clone movement? AR on the crystal too. Has great lume for a rep, and I honestly think that it has a genuine crock strap. Keeps great time too!!!

Gotta love a vintage GMT!!!!

Today I've been wearing my vintage GMT that has had some magic done on it by Tic-Tac/Rolexaddict...the lume markers and hands have been redone and now have a soft vintage glow at night and a creamy off-white during the day, the bezel has been modified (it has the proper size insert) and an aftermarket crystal has been installed. I haven't done any vintagizing to it yet, but I'm thinking about it. The asian GMT movement keeps great time and is close to the proper slow beat movement!! I LOVE the watch enough now that I am hunting for a gen 1675 or 16750!!

Quick question for you concerning the dial...I thought that a genuine dial wouldn't fit the rep? I thought it was too small? Could a Yuki dial be used?

Both watches are quite nice....I am by no means an expert, but I am looking to possibly get a gen 1675 in the near future, so I'm trying to learn. As many other posters said...the biggest tell is the word "Date" on the dial...it should just say "Oyster Perpetual"...the word date wasn't added until I believe the 16750 dials. I believe that you also have a sub bezel. WIth a GMT a genuine insert is slightly wider. In addition, and maybe this is just my eye, but the printing on the dial isn't bold enough....I was recently in NYC and I was looking at tons (well like 10) gens, and each one had a very white and bold lettering on the dial. Your GMT, like mine in the photos below, seems to have too light printing...the printing doesn't jump out like on a gen. Now I also have a 1655 rep, and that printing is very white, bold and crisp. Here is a picture of my asian 1675 that I bought from Reg a while back and had modified by RolexAddict (a GREAT guy by the way)....he relumed the dial/hands, installed a proper crystal, drilled out the lugs and installed gen Rolex springbars and modified the bezel so that it accepted the proper insert. Now here is a picture of the watch as I got it from Reg...notice that the lume is more yellow, and the bezel looks very different. This is the original domed crystal: Enjoy the watch...it is beautiful and should last you for a long time!!!

That looks pretty cool!!! Did the GMT bezel just snap on?

Money and the potential for variety is why I collect/wear reps. I've got a few nice gens (Speedy Pro and SM300), and a couple nice reps (Omega, Rolex)...the reps give me the ability to have the variety that I want out of watches, without spending all of the money of the gens. My gens are watches that, to me, are timeless and that I can see myself wearing for a long time. The reps might also be that, but they are my test drive. I owned the "good" Speedy Pro rep before I bought the gen...the same will happen as I enter the vintage Rolex world. Yes, I have the money to buy whatever gen I want, but rather than spend that money on everything, I would rather have a few special watches that are "keepers" and enjoy the rest of the watches as reps. Oh, and I can honestly say that if I were to win the lottery, I would still buy reps ;-)

Unfortunately, I think that the days of Rolex just being a "plain dependable watch" are well past us...now the cornet is seen as a status symbol by most I think. Yes, they are dependable watches, and if you are lucky enough to have inherited one from the days when they were seen as simply a nice swiss watch, that may still be your view of them because you don't know of the value or don't care about it. But today, I think that new Rolex are seen as just another way to flaunt what you've got. With regular price increases and a dealer service network that isn't overly friendly to vintage owners, they seem to be catering to their brand instead of their history. That is business. Personally, my views of Rolex have changed 180 degrees in the recent past....I have been gravitating towards the vintage watches...the 1655, the 1675 and maybe even the 1680 (well, I have a vintage SM300, so the Sub may be a bit duplication). What interest me is not the Rolex name (I think), but instead the history of these watches. Would I spend the same money on a sterile watch...no, there is a premium for the Rolex name. Would I buy a new Rolex...personally, no. Can I justify spending $5,000 on a watch right now? Not right now, but think about it...I was recently in a conversation with some friends and watches came up...the comment was made that who would spend $5,000 on a watch....I sort of rolled my eyes, and asked my friend how much she thought the engagement ring on her finger cost? She smiled a bit embarrassed, and I said that at least a watch tells time. That is not to insult anyone who enjoys nice jewelry, but I don't think a watch should be seen as anything less...people get them for different reasons (to mark a special occasion or as a sign of accomplishment in life) just as they do jewelry. Some watches have even been known to appreciate in value. I buy a watch because I enjoy the history behind the line and yes, the name, and I enjoy the feeling I get when I look at it (on business trips I have fallen asleep many a night staring at the lume on my SM300.) Do I want it to be noticed....I really don't care, but while I'm not going to go out of my way, I'm not going to shy away either...just the other day I was wearing my 1655 on a black nato, and someone commented that they liked my watch..what kind was it...I said a vintage Rolex explorer II...they said cool...that was it...they liked the orange hand. Do I wish sometime that it didn't say Rolex...yes, I think I do...not because I'm ashamed of it (I will buy a gen vintage one day), but because of the perception that some people have about them. (I think that BMW suffers from the same type of stigma...my client once asked me what the difference between a porcupine and BMW was...the porcupine had the [censored] on the outside...but honestly, it is the best driving car I've ever had and I can't image going back to a Honda, no matter how reliable that Honda is.) In short, I buy what I buy becuase I like it....and yes, I like some Rolex watches (I also like some Omega watches, some Panerai watches, and even some Seiko watches (gasp!)...I want to be known as the guy that wears that cool vintage watch, just as I'm known as the guy that drives the old Mustang convertible (even though it doesn't drive anywhere near as nice as the BMW) instead of the fancy BMW convertible. Enough said! Enjoy what you wear...for whatever reason you wear it!

First..simply a beautiful watch. The Explorer II is really growing on me with that orange hand. Second, a question...I've noticed that you can get the dial in either white or patina...if you were to go with the patina dial, wouldn't the lume on the hands also match the patina of the markers? I realize that the hands themselves are painted white, but I would think that the lume would have all patinad at the same time. Thanks, and once more a GORGEOUS watch!!! T

Hi guys, I'm going to go with comment #1a and 2...yes, this is definitely not a high quality rep bracelet (but I have to say it doesn't feel that flimsy, and sort of looks cool with the rivets.) There were no links removed, and they actually do taper down nicely. BUT, with the addition of the rivets the link is just a little bit too wide for the clasp. As one from Yuki will probably be more than the watch is worth (or what I paid for it at least), I'm going to simply going to GENTLY widen the clasp a bit to get it to fit. But first, I will put it on a NATO and think about it. Thank you both for your replies!! T

Hi everyone, I'm trying to adjust the clasp on a riveted bracelet, and for the life of me, I can't figure this out. Here is a photo of what I am talking about: When I remove the springbar that holds the bracelet to the claps and then move it in a few adjustment holes (on the clasp), the bracelet endlink seems to wide to fit inside the clasp because of the rivets. Any suggestions on this, or am I just being blind on something? Thanks

Still loving the Vintage SM300???? I'm on the search right now for one....so do you think that a vintage crystal (or genuine Omega) would fit the case?

I like button downs, but as a rule, never wear one with a suit....straight collar only. Button downs, for me, are for casual Friday, or if I am just going to wear khakis and a blue blazer. Casual, never formal.

Congratulations on the watch...the Moon watch is a very special watch, and that is a beautiful copy. Wear it well. I have a version of the 35th anniversary model (silver dial with black subdials) that I picked up...faux everything, but a stunning watch with a mezmerizing dial (and that asian movement keeps good time too!) I also have a manual-wind version with the domed crystal...great watch and it keeps excellent time. Enjoy your watch!!

Hi everyone....I'm an investment manager/financial planner for a large investment firm. I manage money for large endowments and foundations. I deal mostly with investment boards. It always surprises me that many of these big CEO types are wearing a cheap quartz watch (sometimes even digital) and not something more unique.

Beautiful watch!! Pleaes tell me how the various sub-dial hands work...are the subdials "dummy", advancing by the pushers, or do they actually work with a "ticking" motion? I have this same watch in automatic form that I bought on Canal Street last year. It has faux chronos and the 6 oclock dial is a 24 hour subdial. The "chrono" hand works as the running second hand. While it has the incorrect clasp, the bracelet is heavy, with a nice clasp. It even has a "correct" standard Moonwatch caseback (not the patch that is on the genuine watch) The color combination is beautiful. Good luck with your watch!!! I am sure that you will love it! Tom

So tell me about the Alpha....do the subdials actually move on their own, or do you have to push the pushers to advance each subdial?

Hi Guys, I have good news for you...the Railmaster dial is matte...very matte...not shiny at all. It has a slightly domed saphire crystal with a purplish AR on the outside...but I am 100% certain that it is MATTE. I bought mine from Ruby. It is a very nice watch...I highly recommend it.