fraggle42

Ah, I didn't know that! Thanks Pete

At a guess > One watch had the threading where the crown and body meet come off. That was $100 wasted. The crown screws onto a tube which is either screwed or glued into the main body. The crown is meant to unscrew from the tube, but the tube should never unscrew from the body. If that is what happened it was most likely caused by you screwing the crown down too tightly, so when you undid it, the tube actually came away from the body. > The other had the crown come off of the stem somewhere during that 3 stage date set/hour set/minute set stage The crown is attached to the stem, a thin metal rod that goes deep inside the watch and that winds it and adjusts the time, day and date. When you turn the crown, you turn the stem whcih turns various gears inside the watch. As you know you can gently pull the crown out one or two clicks to adjust the day/date or the time. There is a thing inside the watch that obviously stops the stem and crown just falling out, but it's just a tiny, thin piece of metal (it's got to fit inside the watch along with everything else!) and if you pull on the crown too hard it's easy to bend, break or even just make it bounce around a bit so that the crown and stem come right out. Once it comes out you can't just push it back in (normally, i've gotten away with that ONCE but the watch didn't have any day/date complications and I was very lucky). Sounds like you're just being a bit too rough with reps. They're NOT as tough as the genuine article. I don't think it will make any difference if you spend any more money to get an Asian movement, it will still just be as fragile. Buy a really cheapie from the M2M board, just so you can learn how little force it takes to pull the crown out, screw it down lightly, etc, and it won't matter if you break it. A couple of months wearing it and getting used to it and you'll be fine and can then go on the hunt for that perfect Sub with a quality movement in it!

I *think* PureTime is selling the Noob version, as it mentions V3. Not checked out Trustys site for it yet.

One thing to note is that you can only edit the Subject if YOU started the thread. Here's an example using a thread I started. Go to the FIRST post and click Edit, highlighted in a red circle here:- Then click on "Use Full Editor", highlighted by the red circle:- That will then bring up the "full" editor, which is just like the editor you use when creating a brand new thread. Note that the Subject is at the top, and you can edit it. You can see it here highlighted in red:- Note that you have to be editing the FIRST post, and YOU must have made that first post. Cheers, Richard

Pity you're not in the UK Daniel, I've got a 2006 iMac that I never use and am getting rid of.

It is a simple fix, so might be worth while pointing it out and asking them to fix it and then retake the QC photos.

Google for "Paint.NET" - it's a free program that you can download add ons for that you can use to do simple stuff like rotations:- It looks like the dial has shifted down and to the right - it's not central, and would also explain the date window. Ask for another.

Thanks for you help. This particular one has been sold, so it wasn't destined to be mine!

Hi all, A member on another forum is selling his gen Speedmaster 3510.50. Sadly it's just the watch, no box or papers, so I'm assuming no receipts from any service either, so I'll factor a service into the price. Watch appears to be in lovely condition. Sellers too far away for me to realistically go and see it (about £200 to get the train there and back) but has posted detailed reasonable pictures. What would be a fair price for one of these in good condition? And are they a reliable movement? I've read that the added chronometer plate makes them a pain in the a... to service. Tempted, very tempted, but concerned about buying a high ticket value blind.

Talk about avoiding EBay fees! Report it!

Bah! I can take a hint! I'll bugger off and go and sulk in a corner... NOT!

Thanks, it's great to know that the ones they are sending out are good. You have to wonder why on earth they're using those photos to (try to) sell them! I did consider buying one and then saw those photos and was completely put off.

+1 the paste is going to be the easiest way, and the cheapest. Getting it regulated again is easy for any watch repair person with a timer, should only be $10 ~ $20 plus the postage, or find someone local.

I love watches that are well made and that I think look great, I'm not particularly bothered if they are accurate to gen or not and I've never done research on gen models prior to buying a rep, never been to an AD to try one on. It all depends what you're looking for. I seem to be in a minority, most people want to pass off the rep as a convincing gen. The social circles I move in buy max £50 watches from Argos mostly, so wouldn't know if a watch is a rep or a gen! They can all appreciate good craftsmanship though, same as me. In the QC pics I check for faults in the assembly of the watch, are the numbers and markers on the dial on straight, are there any scratches on the case, crystal, bracelet or hands, is it keeping good time, is the date / day well aligned in the window, is the AR good or bad, etc. Things you can apply to any watch. And then of course, as Freddy said, is it the same watch you have ordered, same case style, same colour dial, same bracelet / strap?

On TTs site, the 15th picture that shows the back of the cases, the rep case is terrible, cracks all over the back of the arms, they look like they will fall to pieces in a very short time. And on the front shots of the assembled watch again I can see flaws. On PTs site the logos in the photos hide any details so you can't see if the same faults exist. I'd try to find QC or user pics of a PT watch before buying. To me it looks like they're repping a difficult process which just can't be done well on the cheap.

"Winning" bidder has 5 feedback, and second highest has zero feedback. Lets hope they're both fake accounts to prevent fakes being sold. $8,100 and a fake.

If you edit the post, and then just below the edit window you will see a button saying "use advanced editor" or "use full editor", click that, scroll to the top of the page and you can edit the subject.

Yes I did use option one Pete. Angus has confirmed that my payment has gone through, so all is well. I can relax and forget about it until Christmas I wonder how many people are going to get 3, 4 or even 5 BBs arrive?! What's the betting we'll see a few C&Rs for sale? _C_redit card _R_aped

Damn! Sussed! Ok, I admit it, I like (some) kids programs But they'll never be as good as DangerMouse, Fraggle Rock or Bagpuss!

Yes it does refer to the good ol' Fraggle Rock When I got into CB radio decades ago I was stuck for a handle to use and asked my mates. One of them said Fraggle Rock, as small, cute and furry is the polar opposite of what I look like, and it's stuck ever since

Did anyone get an error after paying when you got back to Angus' site? Seems the same thing has happened to a lot of people. Have emailed Angus to see if it's gone through and if not to send me a PP invoice.

Violet laser pointers. These charge your lume up that quickly, and as its a small beam you can charge up every other hour marker and have stripes up the hands

LOL! The young 'uns have no idea what Fraggle Rock is

If this is resolved and you're happy Mike isn't a scammer I urge you to edit your initial post and change the Subject, as at the moment it still reads as if you are calling Mike a scammer.

Reported it again! Jeez, how stupid are eBay? Or do they just look at the fees they'll collect and not give a damn? How easy is it to create a throw away eBay account? May create one and put a bid in for a million pounds right at the end