Avenue
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Posts posted by Avenue
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Hello there,
I've received the QC pics of my new Submariner 116610LN V6s. As I'm not VERY good with doing QC's; I'd love to receive some help from the more experienced, (Rolex) Qc connoisseurs. Please chime in with your knowledge and help me out as much as you can, would be greatly appreciated.
- Are there any flaws? If so, which?
- Should I ask for more (detailed) pictures?
- Should I Accept it?
I hope to hear from you guys, I have about 16 hours to get back to them before they will send it to me.
Thank you so much in advance!
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Interesting article to read for sure, especially if you LOVE the new (basel 2016) 116500LN Daytona.
https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/ben-clymer-and-john-mayer-talk-about-the-new-daytona
Let me know what you think!
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On 20 May 2016 at 3:19 PM, ChrisBlank said:
It would be cool if there was a cross reference chart or something available on this forum so that we could easily distinguish differenceso between the model variations.
Maybe if I could eventually gather up all the information I will put one together to contribute to the community.
Looking forward to it. If you have any questions, me and/or holo would be able to help you out, of course.
@hologramet actually, you have a PM in your inbox.
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9 hours ago, 508-Fanatic said:
I had sent a few pictures over to a well known watch dealer of my 5513 gilt PCG... just for masturbatory pleasure - and he offered me $17,000.00 for it. Certainly made my day lol.
Now obviously had I sent it to him, I'd have gotten spoken to and he'd have probably been pretty angry - lol, and rightfully so. I'm not one to do that.
eBay is *dangerous* for buying vintage Rolex -anything-
Crazy right.. Must feel good though, obviously; you won't send it to him nor actually sell it, but it must feel good that a well known watch dealer doesn't spot a flaw in a rep/franken. Well done.
The thing is.. this watch actually got sold for 6k$. The person who buys it will never ever know that it's just a Franken, unless they go to Rolex for a Service.
The Ebay seller seems to be a pretty reputable seller, I'll keep his profile in my mind to check it out sometimes for a good laugh.
7 hours ago, newswire said:So key is a gen movement .... Hmm
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If the rest is perfect, apparently yes.. If it breathes Rolex the rest will be considered Rolex as well; in this case.
9 hours ago, dbane883 said:Assuming dial is gen gilt, it's worth $6k alone.
Oops. Just read the dial was refinished. Yeah. It's a head scratcher.
That's what I thought first, but it's actually just a piece of junk, funny right?
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You've got to be kidding me. Fake case, reprinted dial, mismatched insert!? Franken projects are starting to pay off. LOL.
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Beautiful! Enjoy the sun.
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12 minutes ago, Mike on a bike said:
Send it out for the plat. mod on numbers once you get it if that's all you have wrong.
I agree with this, as said before; you've gotten quite "lucky" with those qc pics as it does not have many flaws at all. Look up "PPP-Mod" or "Platinum Paint mod" on forums/google and you'll find very handy links. Depending on where you live, you will find a suited watchmaker/modder on this forums (or possibly RWI) that will get the job done for you. It'll probably cost you an additional amount of $80 (Incl. shipping if done locally.)
7 hours ago, hologramet said:Ask yourself, why do you want the Rolex Smurf? I'm going to do it easy for you. You don't want to regret the buy in half a year, and feel like one of those guys with a 200k $ "Tourbillon" VC or Patek and driving a 10k $ VW Polo.
What I'm trying to say is wear a watch that's right for you, your age, your profession. If you're 20-30 the Black Bay is much more suitable than a Smurf. Or a SM300? Maaaaaaybe a 114060/116610.
If you just like the design. And the color isn't thaaaaat important. Just buy the Noob V6s LN.
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To finish my jumpy rant off...
If you really want the LB, buy that one. It's about as good as they get from that model/maker (I think),
If you now have doubts about the watch, or you want a near perfect rep, reconsider other alternatives.
I also agree with what holo has to say about this, it might feel a little direct, but at least it's a very honest opinion and hidden advice.
The smurf is indeed white gold, and is WAY more expensive as a genuine compared to the 116610 LV / LN. (Rolex Submariner Black ceramic date / HULK) as those are just steel. The design is exactly the same, just a material and color difference and a HUGE price difference.
If you can pull it off and are really fond of the smurf, don't hesitate and go for it. You're the only one who can make this decision. In my honest opinion, if you indeed want to buy a near-perfect rep with no flaws which fits in the picture on your wrist, go for the "standard" models and not a white gold version. You will not be annoyed by the bezel insert as it's near perfect and it (most likely) won't have any flaws that you could be bothered about.
It's your own choice, but if you are in love with the model and the "Submariner" idea, the feeling and looks, I'd recommend you to drop this one and go for the 116610 LN / LV V6s that dealers currently offer. In the end, it's your choice and you should be happy with whatever you decide to choose.
35 minutes ago, pcardoza said:If there are no glaring flaws, take the watch and I'll bet you'll be thrilled with the results.
Before you start to think you can buy a 100% 1:1 rep without any flaws by just being picky over qc pics; refer to above comment. Well said, as indeed those pictures are taken under very bright light / microscope to really give you a close-up of the watch to point out MAJOR flaws. If you have it in hand, even if you look real close, you won't notice these things due to natural lightning, the human eye, etc. You'll be very satisfied whatsoever. If you start to get more picky and more knowledge rich about flaws, imperfections, mods, etc. you could start fetching parts, modding things (PPP-mod) etc.
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2 hours ago, hologramet said:
Train that eagle eye.
It was hard in the beginning, I didn't understand all the SEL-talk either...
Thanks for your very detailed explanation. Read it all and have learned a lot.
Is it possible to receive 100% v6s from dealers right now? And does BK (if you order from him) make sure that the watch is v6s?
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6 minutes ago, ChrisBlank said:
I have accidentally posted 2 threads, the other thread has the images. I tried to delete this one but couldn't see how.
You cannot, I just replied on your other thread. PM a Mod to close/delete this thread. :-)
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43 minutes ago, hologramet said:
Rehaut alignment looks good (from the very narrow angle)
Dial looks good
Bezel insert looks ok
SEL-fitment isn't the best
Crystal looks well-aligned
Date wheel overlay looks centered
Other than that, what is there to say... A good BP-Sub.
Seems like you always know what to look for very well, helps many members out.
Would you be so kind and explain me what to look for in QC pics regarding SEL-Fitment? I can spot the rest fairly well but I keep being troubled by the SEL-fitment.
Thank you for your kindness.
37 minutes ago, ChrisBlank said:What do you think about the platinum colored engravings? What are the dark areas?
I have posted this photo highlighting areas that I think might be a few issues, but maybe it's just dirt...
Also does the bottom of the case appear scratched?
The bottom of the case does not appear scratched to me, just very strong lightning conditions to take pictures highlight the brushing done on the watch.
You also mentioned the platinum coloured engravings on the bezel insert, they indeed look kind of odd to me as well. The "10" and the "50" differ in color from the rest of the numbers, and that's not a lightning problem but seems to be slightly under-filled with paint or perhaps a slight different color mix (if you ask me). I would mention this in response to the QC pics and ask if they can swap the bezel insert for a different one.
My advice: Do not let them change the watch because, as hologramnet said, the rest of the watch looks perfectly fine straight from factory; consider yourself "lucky" for not getting crooked cyclops, misaligned rehaut, uncentered date, etc. So try to get them to swap only the insert instead of the entire watch!
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Cannot see/find image in your thread.
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Just now, docthor said:
Well...since there wasn't any information there was just a HULK...nothing special so far...
From just one pic and without any more information how should we know that this is a gen?
If I offended you with my well I'm very sorry...wasn't meant to...more like a written ???
I was just wondering if people would notice that this wasn't a good rep. :-) No offence was taken sir, just wanted to know what you wanted to say. How's your day though?
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21 hours ago, docthor said:
I don't get the thread...therefore...well...
Sent from my wooden drums via Tupperware
What's more to understand than just to acknowledge the beauty of this gen Hulk?
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16 hours ago, themannier said:
What well what ?
I don't get the "Well....."; that, well what.
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2 hours ago, docthor said:
Well...
Sent from my wooden drums via Tupperware
Well what? :-)
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On 20 May 2015 at 3:17 PM, Legend said:
The Dome by Stephen King
Q: Have you ever tried Monkfish and if so, is it an acceptable substitute for lobster tail?
A: I have never tried monkfish in my life. It's more exclusive than lobster so it should be an acceptable substitute in my opinion.
Q: How would you describe a perfect first date and where would it be?
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Don't watch them, wear them.
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Very beautiful watch, I will pm you for another question.
However, for everyone and for discussion; isn't this the "Pre-Daytona" Ref. 6238 instead of the 6239?
The ref. 6238 was produced from the early 1960's to 1967. It is often referred as the "Pre-Daytona" as it shows the transition between the cosmographs and the Daytona that was issued in 1963.
Your caseback indicates that it was delivered to the Peruvian Airforce. (Fuerza Aero del Peru). Around 1000 6238's were delivered to that airforce.
On a side note, I do however agree on the fact that your bezel is a 6239.
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Hi all,
I would like to have your thoughts/opinions on the "improved?" version of the V5 Submariner, namely; the V6.
I will list the changes and improvements.
- Bezel markers are as deep as gen and have the platinum hue. (Finally; maybe no more PPP-mods? > The "older" models had white bezel markers.
- Double AR has now a "sight blueish" tint that the gen has.
- The rehaut engravings are same as gen has right now. [Double line engraving] (Apparently a new machine has been bought in order to replicate it better.)
- The crystal now sits slightly above the bezel as per gen. The crystal's edge is also rounded as per gen.
- The bracelet is (now) SEL; clasp with polished Rolex crown logo.
- NEW SA3135 (Option). No more modified A2836-movements but a true "clone" 3135.Not sure if I can post the link but the watch is to be found here: http://puretime.watch/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v6s-11-noob-best-edition-sa3135.html#
It is listed at $418 with SA3135 movement. I was wondering what you guys think of the new version and thoughts on the changes/improvements.
Hope to hear your opinions on this.
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Beautiful watches AJ! Enjoy them and wear them well. Will definitely be checking for the strap photos.
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I will fit the new ceramic insert for you, they are very easy to break, so best left to someone who has experience. Your bezel assembly is perfectly fine, so no need to replace that Wil.
Sounds good Mick, thanks. That's very kind. So I should order the insert you say?
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Understood mate,. I was just clarifying, I'm wondering if a new insert would be a better option? Its as if the one fitted has a chemical reaction to anything I put on there unlike others I've done.
Indeed what it looks like, because I am using nothing on the watch and it just comes like this and it looks like the paint is being "destroyed" by something and losing it's colour. I have contacted BK for a new bezel insert, he can supply my with a new V5 bezel (with "platinum" paint already on it) and of course a pearl on it. I've got no idea how to swap those myself, to be honest. Is it an easy thing to do? And do you recommend me getting a new bezel?
Thanks Micky
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For clarity, it was me who did this PPP mod, in fact, the watch has been back to me several times for this PPP mod, as for some reason, this customer insists that the paint keeps coming off when he goes swimming with the watch on.
No idea why this bezel insert is always failing to hold the paint, all other inserts I have done have been perfectly fine including my own watches.
Untitled by Micky Aldridge, on FlickrI didn't charge €80 for this mod, I charged €60, and that was with a new pearl which came from BK @ €25 euros.
I'm actually at a loss as to what this has turned out like that, and keeps failing, but after reapplying different PPP mods, and paints at no charge, I am walking away from this, there's nothing else I can do.
Heres my example, looks much better, so confused as to why yours looks like that, and wonder if you are using any chemical cleaner etc..
Untitled by Micky Aldridge, on FlickrMicky,
I just wanted to hear the opinions of the other people on this forum. I didn't put your name up there as this is not some kind of good advertisement, I love the rest of your work I have got done by you, namely:
- BPH is too fast. +2 minutes /day sometimes. > Needs to be fixed.- Crown doesn’t pop out until the time-setting feature. (Why I sent the watch to you in the first place :-P, most important issue!)- I’m not sure but I’m guessing the rubber in my crown (the ‘clog’ thing), is messed up. I’m not 100% sure. But that might need replacement as well. > Rubber replacal and perhaps crown (Inspect the watch, I don’t know the problem)- Security clasp (on the clasp) is poor, sitting at an angle, upper left bar/arm is bent out fractionally. >Needs straightening.- Screws in the bracelet are damaged (by me trying to tighten them with wrong tools) > Needs replacement.- I have two very ugly spots on my bracelet. > Complete case polishing/or brushing (I don’t know which of those 2 the sub should get!)(also case back gasket) + Scratch removal on bracelet please.- If you open the clasp and move it (at the diver’s extension part) feels lose. > Needs tightening.These are the things you've done for me in the past and they were done perfectly, as you know I was very happy about the results. Indeed, the PPP-mod had come off before, and no, obviously I don't damage my watch with any kind of chemical cleaner, I just rinse it under the sink. As i've stated; the pictures are taken after arrival. I hadn't touched the watch with a finger or a drip of water. This is how it came into my mailbox. You must have noticed this when you sent it to me, as it didn't come off "en route" to me; that's just impossible. Your example does indeed look much better. Maybe because it hasn't undergone trial/error before and there hasn't been multiple kinds of paint on the watch itself, and in my case, there has been. I'm not here to complain about you, in fact; you have done great work for me in the past as i've stated several times, and I have said so each time. I'm just disappointed with how my watch looks after the most recent "mods" and wanted to get some opinions/ideas from other people, without giving you a bad name.And indeed, I mentioned the total cost of the watch being delivered at my house including the PPP-Mod and the Pearl replacement. I also mentioned getting a new pearl; so it's not only for the PPP-Mod which I paid for, obviously. Speaking of the pearl, The colour is off and it's very noticeably a "bad" pearl. It has a bunch of flaws and it's broken on the inside. You've mentioned to me that the pearl wouldn't be "perfect" but this is not something I expected of "not perfect". The lume colour is even much different than my entire dial.I'm thinking to buy a new insert from BK (including pearl) and replace it with the one which is one right now. Does that sound like a good idea to you?Thanks Mick.
[QC PICS] Submariner V6s 2836-2 [TIPS?!]
in The Rolex Area
Posted
Pic is taken from an angle (1st pic), from what I can interpret it is indeed centered.