leatherback

It has been like that for at least 6 weeks where I am at. PLUS, it isn't just a straight scale either. Mine last 4 have ranged between $32 and $40 and I have NO idea what makes one time more expensive than another as the most expensive transfer was for the least amoutnof money.

At 23 yrs old, I had a sector and a Tag 1000 both of which were bought in a pawnshop just off of campus. There were so many fake Tags running around at the time I was always worried that people thought the Tag was fake. I miss that watch and laugh becuse the guy whom I sold it to still wears it even though the jubilee style bracelet is seriously spent. I could only dream of a Submariner as I had school loans out the ass.

This one

PM sent!

his bezels are the EXACT same as the one for $29 so save yourself the funds there. (it is the one on top, the other is the original TW best bezel before being upgraded) His inserts are hit or miss but he has replaced the ones that had only half full pearls the other look descent. (if you don't screw it up trying to thin it out) One set of hand from him was reallygreat but the other set had a too short second hand and the hands were flat with no curvature what so ever. [sorry no pic} The date discs are not to bad at all, better than the stock TW best (sorry for no straight on shot but I do not have one on my laptop and I am not at home this weekend) I have orderd one of his retaining rings but have not recieved it yet.

The absolute best rendition of "Lady Be Good" ever recorded. And a very good version of the very over played "Take 5" Arne Domnerus does an amzing job on sax and even better on the clarinet.

I am glad you like the watch! I LOVE the 217 and thanks for the extra crown gaurd.

So, basically unless it is a watch like the ferrari scudera with: 1. seconds at 9 o'clock 2. no chronos 3. no large center seconds hand You are limted to the asian movement if you can't find hands?

THANK YOU! I posted this question on the other forum but THIS is exactly what I needed to know. I needed to know which was the correct crown for my 16800 project and if the other was correct for a 1680. I have this one on my more modern TW best sub project just because it was new. It is beautiful but know I know it is incorrect: But I also still have one of this type crown that I got used. It is difficult to see in this pic but has the shorter wider coronet: I have a MBW 1680 on the way from TTK and I am VERY happy to know that I already have the crown for it! That is ONE LESS thing I will have to lay out funds for in it's modification.

That is an incredibly nice 1655 TTK! And considering decent reps are near impossible to find makes it all the more impressive. It looks like I am going to be addicted to this damn hobby!

ditto

forgot to say I will look tonight

Not off the top of my head and ebay is blocked from work. Good thing they don't know about this site. He was in isreal and had a TON of watch parts.

The crystal was $90 bucks on ebay. It has an almost invisible scratch. Too much?

My daily watch until I got my TW best in. Wonderful watch but the hands bug the crud out of me.

I know this is an old post but I have just a bit of info to add to this. The bezel construction in the picture above is exactly the same bezel construction that is in the TW best classic I recieved. with one small but very important difference. Where the noobmariner has the same spring that the ch subs have, the TW best actually has the same rubber gasket that is used to seal the caseback. if you have and exrta gasket this size lying around try installing the bezel with it instead. It may be a stupid idea but at least I have thrown it out there. After doing my crown gaurds I bent the bezel trying to put it back on. I went and bought a small electronics vice and a $1 sheet of 1/8 inch hobby rubber to line the plasting jaws. I then would place the bezel on the tabel top to see where the warp was and then would place small sections in the vice and incrementally bend it back. I took a pic so I willsee if I can load it. The other thing I noticed as a difference bewtween my new TW best and a CN sub I not is some thing I do not know the name of. I spent the weekend trying to mod both and f*cked up two inserts trying to shave them down with a dremel but was glad I had the CN to learn on. Anyway, no matter how muched I shaved the insert I couldn't get it to sit any lower. I finally just placed it on the watch sanz bezel and saw it was hitting the case that retains the crystal gasket and not the angle inthe bezel. The TW crystal gasket and retaining groove is less than half as thick as the CN gasket and groove. So I popped out the crystal and layed a sheet of 800 grit wet sandpaper on the glass top of our table to keep a smooth suface. I sanded the case top on the paper contastanly turning the case as to keep the pressure distributed evenly. And BAM! now it has a ton of crystal sticks out. But it looks like ass since the crystal in only beveled a tiny bit. But still looks beter than before.

The only rep I own (until mw TW best gets here) is and IWC Inge. When I got it, although a very impressive fake, really didn't blow sunshine up my skirt as it doesn't sit right on my skinny wrist, so I immediately went to work trying to improve it so it will grow me. I was lucky enough to find a "geniune replaced crystal" in an eBay store. And in conmunication found he had a "geniune replaced crown" that I purchased too. As he said, both items have a flaw or two which is why they were replaced, but are impossible to get. My parts arrived from Isreal yesterday afternoon, amazingly quick I might add. Crystal I will preface by saying the crystal that arrived is exactly the same dimensions as the current crystal. But it has a spectacular blue AR coating on both sides. Yes, if you look VERY VERY closely and in a perfect reflection you can see what seems to be the out line of a water spot but is actually a minute scratch in one side. But if you are not looking for a flaw you won't see it. Any way, the gasket that came with the crystal is just a bit thinner than the fake one and darker material. The size difference is not noticable until you press in the crystal. If you use the new gasket the crystal just basically drops in with minimal fingure pressure. But if you use the current gasket as I did, I had to use one of those "soft clamps" with rubber covered jaws intended for wood working to smash that thing in there. Question 1: finally - Is there any problem with using the current gasket with the "gen" crystal. It fits, but am I better off using the "gen" gasket and cementing it in? You cannot see any difference when the crystal is mounted. Crown. Question 2: The "gen" crown screws in to the current tube. But not smoothly. It feels a bit tight, not rough but more like the crown and tube have a slightly different thread pitch. Will this smooth out over time? Should I just keep unscrewing and rescrewing the crown over and over until it smooths out? Then blow out what ever metal dust as a result? The crown that arrived is 100% nicer than the current crown. Where as the current crown has a finish of very fine machine marks, this crown is finished between the "lugs" with the same tiny, sandblasted like finish identical to the finish inside the IWC Probus insignia on the top of the crown. The top of lugs are then smooth polished. This looks SO good and correct and looks like it belongs on the watch. But in pics of the gen it looks like it should be polished between the lugs and brushed on top. Is it possible that is this the gen crown FOR A ingenieur but NOT THIS ingenieur? side question. Is it bad that I loctited the eta stem into the crown? Tube. Question 3: How can I tell if the tube is too short to be sealing properly? I cant tell whether or not the crown is bottoming out on the case and not making a tight seal with oring out of the old crown. I think the tube may be pressed so is it possible to pull it out a bit and then loctite it into place? Thanks. And does anyone have any tricks to tell whether or not parts are genuine IWC? I know the seller has the whole "WE sell only geniune parts, no monkeying aroud" slogan on their auctions but does that really mean anything? one observation - I have got to get some watch tools. Using a wide open pair of needle nose pliers to open a watch is just asking for problems.

Just making sure to cover all my basing by posting that I would like my name added as well. white letter 1680