Revere

since this is a genuine movement and genuine dial your best bet is bringing this to a good watchmaker. i'm certain there is someone on this forum that could do the work but because this is a gen-franken there's no reason to limit yourself to RWG in your search for a watchmaker. when you reach out to a watchmaker just tell them that you have a genuine rolex that's had some parts swapped in and out over the years, and it needs some work on the movement to get running.

The parts are with the integrator right now. There's a good bit of work to do on both: swap crystal to gen T17 crystal swap crown and tube to Athaya crown assemble watch (which has some nuances due to parts incompatibility)

Answering your first question: let your parts compatibility and priorities do the downselection for you. It sounds like you are hesitant to avoid modifying the dial, so this means you'll be using a 3135 movement instead of a 28xx movement. Take a look at these web pages on Ranfft which have details about the movements you're considering, and take a look at the dimensions under "data." Look through the link "comments about the data" underneath to understand what each of these parameters physically refers to on the movement. http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&ETA_2824_2 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&ETA_2836_1 http://www.ranfft.de/cgi-bin/bidfun-db.cgi?10&ranfft&&2uswk&Rolex_3035 You will understand that a case designed to fit a 2824 might not fit a 2836, and might not fit a 3135 movement. This is because of different stem heights and diameters of the movements. Clever uses of spacers/shims can allow a case to be used for multiple movements, but unless there is an explicit statement in the listing saying it'll fit a 3135 movement (or unless you have confirmation from someone knowledgeable), I would not buy that case. Focus on finding a case that will fit a 3135 movement. To answer your second question: it would fit the movement you want to use, but it's possible your dial will be too small for the dial opening in the case. In a watch the dial with diameter D is pressed against a "dial lip" which has a diameter slightly lower than D. This means the outer periphery of the dial is hidden underneath the dial lip when viewing the watch from in front. If your dial is too small, it'll "fall through" the dial lip into the area underneath the crystal, and this means the whole movement/dial assembly will be floppy within the case (i.e. this does not work, you must find a case that fits your dial). If you know the diameter of the dial that's supposed to fit that watch, and if it's within a small range of your dial, then it'll work. If the case is cheap enough you could buy it, get some calipers, take some measurements, do the same with your dial, then draw a conclusion.

Also, if you trim the dial feet and fit to an ETA, you will need a good "date wheel overlay" or DWO for the movement to show the date correctly in the window. Mounting this DWO is a huge pain in the ass, and finding a nice one is a bit of a challenge these days I think. if it were me i'd use a 3135 clone movement and find a nice case for it. I think that would be easier overall, but might require more patience

You'd have to cut the dial feet off and mount new feet to the dial (kinda difficult for a novice, and is irreversible in a literal sense, though you can install feet in the original positions again if you wish). What type of DJ is this dial for? You might be able to get a nice rep case, or just hunt for a gen case if it's a vintage model. Maybe some of the usual suspects like raffles/MQ/phong/Ruby will have DJ cases, though maybe unlikely since these are comparatively less popular models

The "damage" did turn out to be residue placed there intentionally, presumably to not cause any customs issues, so the cases are A-OK. Ruby was prompt in responding to me and letting me know to use acetone to remove the residue. Seems I got all worked up about nothing, fortunately

Ruby says to remove this residue by trying acetone. Will give it a shot tomorrow!

Got my cases in from Ruby today, the engraving areas are all scratched/damaged. Super annoying... Let this be a warning for whoever orders from Ruby: the real product may vary from what you ordered. I checked the photo she sent prior to shipping; the casebacks are conveniently facing downwards but you can just barely see the damage between the lugs. I told Ruby this isn't acceptable and asked whether she can replace the cases. Will update...

Both of these are going to go into Ruby cases with ETA 28xx movements. I have a nice 6538 with an identical dial and gen movement but it doesn’t get much wrist time owing to the fact that the movement is delicate and I wear the crap out of my watches. I’m working with some folks on this forum to get the dials onto ETA 28xx movements. I’ll share more details once the project is moved along further

Hi everyone, long time without sharing a post about my projects here. I recently received 2x 6538 dials, very nice ones. Current plan is to use these in two builds, one for me and one for my father. I'll share more details later on - probably a few months. Just a teaser share for now.

Talk to @mymanmatt, he can probably enlighten you.

Awesome build! Old post indeed, but I still haven't gotten around to making a Commando. That might change now - thanks!

Very pretty. What hands did you use?

+1 to NDT being long gone. I wanted to source a dial from them back in 2015 I think, and they were apparently not doing business at that point.

The Noob CHS movement is not reliable. Thoroughly documented and you are kidding yourself if you think yours will be the good one. Two factories (ARF and VRF I believe) came out with their proper CHS movement clones for the 116710 a few weeks ago. Only a matter of time until the 126710 gets the same treatment, so I'd be patient and wait for that

Is mymanmatt still around? He used to be the go-to guy for these. He's very talented, and also a nice guy to work with.

I am surprised to see a comment taking a dig at super frankens like these. I spent more than OP while building a super franken 6538. It's one of my most treasured possessions. Seems silly to say that a super-franken is just a rep and not worth spending $,$$$ on when we are, at the end of the day, collecting tools that are obsolete - replica or otherwise.

I have the same watch that has the same issue 😕 I actually no longer wear it because of this issue, it bugs me too much. I'll be sourcing a gen dial to install soon.

Wow, that's a really interesting observation. I had no idea they were actually tapered. I know that the TC hands are very well known for replicating the gen look appropriately. I happen to be sitting on a few sets. I'll post some pictures in a day or two.

I'll post some pictures of mine later, I am at work currently. I absolutely loved building my 6538. It was my first big watch project. It sounds cheesy, but the project taught me a good bit of discipline and patience. A few members on this board were so helpful in completing the project - if y'all read this and remember my PMs to you a few years back, know that I am grateful for your help every time I wear my watch! A good dial is paramount. The rest of the watch will not matter if you do not have a great dial. Hands are also very important. If you have the financial means and the access, do not skimp on either the dial or the hands. A few tips that people passed on to me: if you buy a dial from MQ, make sure he does not send you a cheap dial in place of an expensive one. If you buy a case from phong, make sure the case he sent you matches the case he sends you QC pictures of. I also noticed that a few of phong's cases had crooked crown tubes, leading to the crown being crooked. If you can, get a gen 8 mm crown. The best 7206 bracelet that you can seem to get is the one from Yuki. The most accurate recreation of the strap used by Sean Connery in Dr. No can be found at the following link. It is important to note that the strap used in the film is not a standard NATO strap but is actually a one piece strap. https://www.esprit-nato.com/nl/nylon-watch-straps/153-the-real-james-bond-sean-connery-in-goldfinger-black-military-green-red.html?search_query=james+bond&results=63 Good luck with the project.

@manodeoro Where did you get those hands? I’m also curious about the November & case you selected. I tried a commando project years ago but stopped when i couldn’t find good hands. Your post gives me hope

I always install a glide lock on my reps too. Feels awesome

Love this forum, can always count on someone to come in with answers on modding our watches. Thank you Hologramet!

As the title says, I want to outfit my Noob 116500 with one of the 16520/116520 bezels shown at the bottom of this URL: http://www.jewelryandwatch.com/contents/en-us/d245_Rolex_Daytona_Bezels.html Can anyone provide comments on the following: 1) Would the bezel fit? 2) While removing the ceramic bezel, is it likely the crystal would be removed with it? Similar to the issues with the TC Subs Thanks!

I've been up to date on TC's work since the v5 or so. I also own a JF v2. The differences between the JF v2 and the TC V7x are, in my opinion, quality and finish oriented. The differences in case shape may be minimal, but details such as the following make the V7x a clear winner: - great bezel insert - great bezel action (very solid clicks, very little play) - great machining of the teeth on the bezel - V7x comes with lug chamfers that are more similar to an unserviced 16610. JF lug chamfers are IMO more similar to a sub that has been very lightly polished and rechamfered at an RSC, but others argue the JF lug chamfer is as many 16610s came originally. YMMV That said, the V7x sells for a good amount more than the JF v2. If you want to save some money on your build, sell the V7x, buy a v2, and make something a hair less expensive that is 95% as good Good luck with the build and be sure to have patience as with any committed project.