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Ssouthall6

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Posts posted by Ssouthall6

  1. They've been around a while now. Don't think there are any major reliability issues with the design unlike the sh3135/yuki and other clone movements. They aren't 1:1 with the gen though, lots of parts incompatible.

    Mine was damaged from the dealer and unfortunately the best they could offer me was 25% off a replacement watch. Not a TD here - RWI - and to be fair the haven't hid from the problem, they've been responsive for the best part of a year to try and make a resolution. The problem was the 225 spring was so badly bent it would barely fit the case. Assembly issues rather than systemic.


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  2. thank you fellas. any other watches have the Noob 4130 ?? wonder if I can buy another watch that’s cheaper on price with that movement


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    If you want to sell it and cut your losses I'd be interested. I have a faulty one gathering dust too


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  3. One rep dealer advertises an A3135 Mod movement in his Datejusts. Is it a Noob?


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    They don't always list them correctly.

    If the dj is an ARF, even if it says sa3135 it's an sh3135.

    If it says noob a3135, it's an a2836-2 with a decorative plate.


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  4. It's not just the dealers it's the factories that are worse than ever.

    Noob could make a 116520 or 116520 with a better dial and bezel. There seems to be some tacit agreement with ARF that one factory will sell a good looking tona and the other will produce a functioning watch with gen thickness.

    They knew between them that the price of gen parts would rocket so to throw together a decent Franken, not even with gen parts, you need to buy both watches. Then pay a modder to shave the dial.

    I draw the line. [censored] that. We've suspected deliberate collusion for some time, this absurd scenario confirms it.


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  5. Reliability on the new noob is fine, lots in the wild now and no horror stories.

    Dial on the steel version is a joke, completely wrong. Bezel isn't great either.

    Dial on the ceramic is better in terms of the ROLEX spacing but the Subdials are too fat. Once seen you cannot unsee. Bezel is poor compared to the ARF as well.

    For a Franken project it isn't going to be cheap. The fact noob have a functioning thin watch is pushing the price of gen daytona parts up, certainly on the steel model, on the ceramic forget it, gen parts are impossible to find.

    A good alternative is buy the noob and if you can get hold of an ARF bezel insert and dial do that. Even the BP dial is miles better. Problem is both BP and ARF dials are a fraction too thick so will need to be shaved in order to fit the noob case.


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    • Like 1
  6. Also another member mentioned
    The dial isn't even close, neither is the bezel. Where do we start with the dial...the ROLEX lettering. Font is completely wrong. DAYTONA font and thickness are wrong. Markers are slightly too skinny like ARF. ARF dial is miles better. Bezel markings are shallow and skinny on noob, much better on ARF. 

    Sels...you could fit a credit card in the gap on noob. ARF is subject to QC but a good one is nice. 

    Overall, it's a massive disappointment other than the movement and crown guards. Oh and pushers. 
     
     

    That's me, I'm a bit picky, sorry!


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    • Like 1
    • Haha 1
  7. V6s is no longer available, even if dealers say they can get it you will get a v7

    Sa3135 is ok but would benefit from a service as if it packs in you won't be able to get replacement parts, unlike the sh3135 or eta movements

    The new seconds at 6 movement in the ARF has been around a little while (it was previously used in the newest iwc 3714) and touch wood there's been no stories about it playing up or even stuttering seconds like the old one. The seconds works but the other subdials don't.

    There's no reason why you can't remove the deco plate, use a different rotor or thinner caseback, we've seen Domi offering this service over at RWI


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  8. Any feedback on whether it's worth 1. Changing the stock sh3135 stem and 2. If so whether a standard aftermarket like Clarks is ok or whether gen is significantly stronger and more reliable?

     

    I've usually gone for gen anyway purely as I like as many gen parts as possible if they are readily available but I'm having a hard time getting hold of a gen stem having had two empty envelopes arrive from eBay lately and had to fork out a load of unnecessary customs fees that will be a ballache to claim back.

     

    Any feedback appreciated.

     

     

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  9. Funny in 7 years worth of revisions they still can't get the SEL quite right, not that anyone other than us nerds would know what a SEL is let alone spot it as a tell. Nice piece and the insert numbers look lighter than some v7's I've seen which is a step in the right direction.


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