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On ‎4‎/‎9‎/‎2016 at 1:34 PM, BooneShine said:

Bought the Kello app last night on your recommendation and it worked like a charm... Been looking for something simple and cheap to at least get a general idea on whether my watches we running fast/slow. Also, I noticed that the results were different depending on if the watch was facing up or facing down. I'd read about this phenomenon before, but it was awesome to see it happen in real time!

 

Wow, I knew superglue was too good to be true... Looks like I'm just gonna have to get better at managing those messy cements and epoxies. I didn't even think about lack of set time let alone the fume problem.

It would suck to spend all that time prepping your dial and end up with it permanently off center, with your fingers glued to it. Then when you finally free yourself from the unsightly beast, the fumes raise your prints to remind you of your mistake. Damn you superglue! Our relationship could have been so promising! Ha.

Thanks for the insight! Glad I didn't have to go through it myself... I may have just thrown in the towel out of frustration. Though I'm learning that this hobby/obsession is all about being okay with making mistakes, learning and growing.

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definitely a learning curve, it's like you have to mess up to learn, gluing was a pain at first but now I have steps that work really well for me, I dreaded gluing the date wheel overlay and my biggest thing was losing parts :-( but I'm getting better :-) because I tackled a 2671 small ladies movement really small parts which was good practice now the bigger movements 28XX are much easier to work with.

21 hours ago, BooneShine said:

Thanks! It's funny how before I started the project I was like "man this is gonna be the ultimate watch... After this I'll never make another one..." Literally the next day I'm obsessively looking at pictures of 34mm Tudor Rangers. Ha!

 

Please do post about your experience with the Loctite super glue on dial feet project. I was afraid to try it myself because I read somewhere that the fumes from super glue can sometimes mess with stuff. How exactly? I have no idea. So I'm super curious to know your findings... If it works out, sounds a lot less messy than two part epoxy and stronger than hypo cement.

I also am not looking forward to opening this watch up to service it in the future. Hopefully I will have gotten better at the "micro gluing" by then and will be able to properly attach feet.

Good call on the oiler... I'll have to try that out as well.

 

Good luck with your project! Let us know which method you end up using and how it works out

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yup I said the same thing, now into build 3 :-) it cost alittle more to build but its your build!! as for the fumes on my last build I soldered some copper wire with the rite diameter to the dial spacer which was a pain!!then glued the spacer to the dial, the spacer had some raised [censored] so I put a drop on each & the last time I opened up that case to set the beat I didn't get a BUZZ LOL, by the way Kello is a pretty good app for that using a iphone & iphone headset with mic

On ‎4‎/‎8‎/‎2016 at 7:46 PM, automatico said:

You might be able to ID the movement by going to the 'Chinese Mechanical watches' forum on WUS and dig around until you find this movement discussed. The movement is common in $30+/- watches and may be made by different China factories. I have owned a few and they are fairly accurate and reliable as long as they are clean and have a little oil here and there.

I just now looked in my parts box and found two of these movements in 'pot metal' case DJ look-alike watches that go for around $25. I had a 'pot metal' tutone omega smp replica a couple weeks back with a dial similar to the one in the picture but it had a Seagull ST16 in it. The ST16 is quite a bit higher in the pecking order than the movement pictured but cheap none the less...unless they are branded 'Claro Semag'.

'Pot metal' = common term for cast metal of some sort, aka 'ufo metal'. When the plating wears away (in a day or two) the bare metal looks a lot like a weathered 1950s automobile hood ornament after the chrome plating blistered off. 'High grade' pot metal usually = brass. Many have skin rash reactions to 'ufo metal'.

'Base metal' can be anything from ufo pot metal to stainless steel with plating applied over it. I used to see 14k solid yellow gold watches that had been plated with rhodium or white gold so the 14k gold case could also be termed 'base metal' in this instance. Matter of fact, I have a quartz diamond dial Lucien Piccard mans watch that is 14k white gold and was plated with yellow gold. I had it 'reverse plated' to remove the yellow gold plating and it looks fine. Btw, Lucien Piccard gold watches are still a relative bargain as no one seems to like them very much. I bought a 14k yellow LP 'Sea Shark' automatic on a leather strap that looks like new a while back for $110.

http://www.watchfreeks.com/115-watch-movements/3864-claro-semag-cl-888-a.html

 

ok thanks for that info much appreciated!!

40 minutes ago, panerai153 said:

Are those the only markings? I would suspect that is a copy of some genuine movement, as all the recognized brands mark their movements with name, movement number, etc.

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Yes that is the only markings that I can see :-( I have looked and looked and cant find anything that looks like it

3 hours ago, BooneShine said:

I just read that post. Pretty rad! Think I may try that on my next build.

Anyone try putting new dial feet into the movement foot holes and then gluing the dial to the feet? Might work if you're really careful and then you don't have to worry about transcribing foot placement.

I just finished my first 1016 project last night. First I tried dial dots, but because the clamps didn't hold the everything together tight enough, the movement would wiggle around behind the dial every time I pulled the crown out. So I took it apart.

On the second go, I used g-s hypo cement to affix the dial spacer to the movement, then again to affix the dial to the spacer. I got new clamps that held everything together better and it all worked out great!

I like the hypo cement because it holds quite strong, but is easy to remove with a blade if you need to.

Here's a pic of my new time keeper:

Yuki dial

Yuki hands

JMB v2 case set

Yuki bracelet

Asian ETA 2824-2

Word.

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I've used the hypo on 3 builds so far with success but dreading if ever having to go back and do those builds over on my next build I going the dial feet and Loctite super glue, being impact resistant, I'm getting pretty good at this micro gluing thing lol oiler and a dab should hold the feet on nicely  putting the feet in the movement first then gluing and aligning with a 15 to 30 sec window should work just fine :-) Nice Watch!!

So nobody has a clue what cal if any this movement is ? it has BE markings under the

balancing wheel

yes it does

hey all

a friend of minds pulled this out of his junk box ,he said it had been sitting in there 15 plus years

it seems to have been a Omega Seamaster Rep but there are no markings on the movement, can some one tell me what

movement this is please

Thanks

in setting mode while doing a date gear repair setting the hands got harder to turn to the point it binded up, so i took the movement apart down to the train wheels and removed the balancing wheel watching a video how to service an automatic watch,i got everything back together but now it will not run, the balancing wheel will rock back and forth a couple of times if i hit it but that's it,every thing seems to work correctly accept it wont run,what can i check?

Thanks