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Italiansub

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Posts posted by Italiansub

  1. Building a 118208

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    :bleh:  Probably easiest thing would be to get the plain SS case, re-shape, then get the whole thing plated...

    M, was your rep case sort of "flat" between the lugs or round like a regular DJ case?


    Mostly concerned w that "flat" section between lugs...do you know of a good SS case to get shaped and plated...?




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  3. Building a 118208

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    After taking those pic, I noticed that the rep lugs were a little thicker and the crystal sits a little higher. I also realized that the crown on the gen has the two dots, not the slash/bar. I guess that signifies gold which is pretty obvious on a YG watch, less so on a WG one. But overall I consider the rep a very nice approximation of the gen.
     
    Also, just thought about the crown position, appears to be slightly lower on the rep and that could also account for the thicker lugs- the 2834-2 (mine says 2836-2 on it from 2008 or so) may be a little taller than the 3155. I also noticed a few variations between the two gen dials- Swiss Made is further apart on the dial in the rep case, print looks lighter also on that dial.   



    Thanks for the pics.

    Is the crystal higher? It looks like the same size gasket...but the bezel looks dif. Maybe it's a little thinner?? You should buy another gen bezel and swap it out...then take a side by side...c'mon...do it!!


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    Quite a bit of difference in the bezel and crystal area and the rep lugs look a tad chunkier.  Maybe I should write a program - nah...
     
    But, those observations aside, it's a nice looking watch!


    Talk about dangling a carrot....haha!

    What would happen after the case got machined down? Gold plating? Can we get a prototype?!?!


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  4. Question: Datejust 31 franken???

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    That's a good questions. The washer has fitted to the movement side the movement spacer. This allows it to clear the DW same as it would with the dial. The trick here is to have a washer that's so thin it doesn't affect the stem or hand height significantly.

    I think if you look closely you'll see the movement spacer in the pic.


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    Also...the watch I franken'd came with a DG2813 (similar to a miyota mvmt) so can't speak to the reps w eta/clones. Let me know how it goes.

    Also...gen crown fit mine.


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    One more thing....since it's a no date dial...you could take off the DW if you were having clearance issues.


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    • Like 1

  6. Buying first rep

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    I am trying to buy my lifestyle. I love luxury. If I could, I would buy every gold rolex in the world. As soon as I graduate college I will be making six figures so a rolex will be considered chump change to me.
     
    That being said, ever heard of the phrase "fake it till you make it"? That is my plan.



    Oh man. Love it. Forgot what being 21 was like.

    What exactly are you trying to fake here? The luxury lifestyle or confidence?

    If the goal is trying to fake the luxury lifestyle...I'm afraid the watch isn't going to be enough...I size people up by things that can't be sourced from Chinese websites and assure you most others do as well...for instance...I don't look at just the style of clothing someone wears...but how it's cared for and worn. Is the person wearing the standard no brainer Rolex sub, or do they know watches enough and shop at the places that will help them pick a model that isnt rep'd by every Chinese factory? Are their clothes properly tailored? Pressed? Are the soles of their shoes clean and fresh? How bout laces? Are they worn?
    When going out .... does the style and brand of bank card one pays with match the "lifestyle" they rep? Does the person know the things that one should certainly know if living "the life"? It's so transparent when someone tries to fake the "luxury" lifestyle...because luxury isn't about what someone wears...it's about the confidence that someone shows when they don't need to prove anything to anyone. See...the last poster was trying to re-assure you that's it's OK to have the lifestyle of a recent college grad/intern. And in being OK with it...and perhaps having on a Tudor or Seiko...which is a perfectly respectable watch for anyone who's either made it, or on their way to "making it"...it shows that you have the confidence and know things you "should" know in order TO make it.

    Maybe you should perform a test...fake being confident until you are. Buy a quartz Nixon for $35 at an outlet...wear it into your new job and every time someone notices...which will be about 200x more than they would notice a Rolex...tell them you hate it, but can't yet afford a Rolex. Tell them you plan to work hard...that you plan to save up...despite your penchant for loving the "luxury lifestyle"...and that one day, when you've "made it"...you plan to put the Nixon in a watch box and save it for your kids to see...so that you can tell them how once upon a time you actually thought it was important what watch a person wore.

    Then...come back onto the forum...and tell us about how you view people who come to these forums and make their first post ever about how they intend to impress people by "faking it till they make" it with a watch.

    Good luck dude.


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    • Like 2

  7. Question: Datejust 31 franken???

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Very nice job!  It's nice to know that a gen Rolex dial is smaller than the Tudor.  I have built a couple Tudor mid-size with gen Tudor dials and they fit the case perfectly.  Your solution was slick!



    Thanks bro...but incase you forgot...it was actually your solution that I stole! Only difference, was that I took the shortcut of finding a .001 washer. Being the machinist you are...you had told me to grind down a washer to that size! Guess this is the "city-boy" version...

    And...if you have any of those Tudor dials kicking around, let me know...I've got one of those empty cases just wanting to be built up.


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  8. Buying first rep

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    If I only had 2 grand in my bank account and didn't want to wear a watch too far outside of my social class, I would purchase a Tudor Black Bay ZF V4 Rep for ~$300 from InTime.   I would then promptly thank my lucky stars that I still had $1700 in savings and be grateful for such a kickass Rep.  :play_ball: 



    You're a genius...but something tells me a Tudor is beneath the OP.


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  11. Buying first rep

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    I remember in high school I was making $9/hr and didn't want to get a Toyota bc I thought they were POS. Now I'm making decent $$ and cant wait to trade in my BMW for a Toyota w a third row of seating. It's all perspective I suppose...


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    • Like 1

  13. Question: Datejust 31 franken???

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    I have built a 31mm oyster perp also. I have to say...it was actually easier than the 36 dj's ive assembled.

    Also...@jmb the Tudor cases I've used do not fit a gen dial...the dials tend to be too small, but the case overall is very nice. Maybe I have a different version?

    I started with a rep using a miyota movement and a crystal gasket cut down to fit as a movement spacer. The biggest challenge was getting the gen dial, which is considerably smaller than a rep dial, to fit onto the movement. I solved that issue with an extremely thin washer bought from amazon, glued to the back of the dial. This fits over the movement and right into place when the case is all buttoned up. The hands still fit, and I didn't find a need to increase the pinion height.

    Here is the watch:

    IMG_1237.JPG

    IMG_1188.JPG

    IMG_1187.JPG

    I posted a thread on rwi but they seem to be down ATM.


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    Btw...my case happened to fit a gen crystal gasket, crystal, and bezel. The bezel fit was tight, and there is more case showing around the edge than I prefer...it's not noticeable on the wrist...but you know how it goes...once we see it...it's always there


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  15. Buying first rep

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    Hmmm...Where to start...I know you weren't asking for my advice on life, but I'm going to give it anyways...

    ...particularly in FINANCE...most see a watch as a right of passage...a milestone marker...

    And probably expect ANY Rolex they see that's just too new, or on the "wrong" person to be a rep. Remember it's their job to size up the bank accounts and spending tendencies of people.

    So...when they see someone who is 21...particularly an INTERN...they will immediately think rep even if you buy a gen watch. Upon meeting you and getting to know your situation in life...they will either come to the decision that A)it's DEFINITELY a rep, or B)it's bad form to flaunt a Rolex when you're an intern.

    In either case...they won't say "hey look at this rep"...they will simply think it and "know it".

    Now...you sound like a very nice person...maybe even can "pull off" a watch at your age...but I assure you, you aren't impressing anyone unless you plan to rock something north of a $50k timepiece. It's finance after all...rolexs are about as common and unremarkable as beats headphones at the local high school.

    If you must though....here's some advice...get a gen Tudor, a gen Seiko, or a Gen omega. Those are watches that scream gen...and are within your budget, and well respected by any watch fan. There's nothing wrong with buying within your BUDGET. Particularly a good lesson to display in FINANCE.

    Now...once you've been working for a few years...and have a client list to impress...feel free to go nuts on gens or reps that you like.

    If you must...get a TC sub...any version...tape up the crystal, remove the movement, and put the watch case and bracelet in a coffee can filled with screws, nuts, bolts, sand...and shake around for a while....then, maybe you have something worth wearing. A slightly aged Rolex that will pass 99% of the closeup inspections it gets (which won't be any) but at least didn't look like you went to canal street the week before your internship to buy some fake to try to impress people.


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    Actually...I take all that back....apply for a credit card and take your $2k down to the Rollie dealer and go balls out.


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    • Like 2

  16. Oyster bracelet from startime - 20mm hollow end lug

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    "But is the 75 dollar complete bracelet Chinese I assume?"
    It must be because the Italy made jubilees are specified as such.
    "Why don't they sell a complete Italian made stainless submariner bracelet I wonder."
    They used to but the 20mm Italy made oyster type bracelets must not be available now.  I still have one from a few years ago but it has solid mid links...it was about $99 iirc.
     



    Thanks for the intel on this. I managed to work out a 20mm TT jubilee tha looks pretty nice on the watch.

    I wonder if anyone knows where I could source a hollow midlink oyster with removable end links?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    "Have you actually compared the TT bands from startime (which as far as I can see sell for $500-900) vs a Gen band? The price is almost similar enough to just go gen...?
    I have compared the tutone jubilee bracelets to genuine and the Italian ST bracelets are probably just about as good.  If you use genuine hoods and clasp they look the same.  Iirc the removable screws are the same size as oem too.  Have a low mileage genuine late 1980s 16233 DJ with a jubilee and when compared to a new heavy mid link ST bracelet, they are very close.  ST offers a regular tutone bracelet with thinner mid links and they will probably not last as long.  Genuine hollow mid link tutone jubilee bracelets have mid links made like the heavy link ST bracelets with thicker, rounded inside corners in the mid links.  ST ss/18k heavy link 20mm jubilee is $1130 USD, ss/14k heavy link is $875, ST ss/18k 20mm oyster is $1090, and ss/14k is $790. 
    Have a genuine 20mm ss/18k oyster bracelet and it has steel tubes over the screws inside the removable link screws to help with friction, can not tell if it has them on the permanent links or not.  Do not know if ST Italy made tutone oyster has them or not but they probably do.  Last I heard a new genuine 20mm ss/18k hollow link oyster or jubilee with regular clasp was around $3k USD.  A good used one will probably go for $800 to $1200 USD.  Some owners use 19mm bracelets on watches made for 20mm bracelets so the outer edge of the links will not scuff and wear the inner edges of the lugs.  A lot of watches with old style hoods will have the inside tips of the lugs worn down where the bracelet has gnawed on them.  This does not apply to watches with sel bracelets.
    Gnawed!   Like in "I gnawed half the teeth off second gear in my old Muncie."


     



    Wonder if there are any other options for hollow midlink TT jubilee bracelets between the $75 riyi gold filled versions I see on eBay....and the $850 ST heavy link version that is passable?

    With decent condition used gen versions coming up here and there for less than $1000 I have a hard time shelling out that kind of money for a ST band.



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  19. Oyster bracelet from startime - 20mm hollow end lug

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    I got mine through a well known/respected member since I don't have a startime account. It was new when I got it. It is the Hollow endlink, solid midlink stainless steel oyster band. I'm under the impression this is the right band for a DJ 160xx or 162xx. Should I be looking for a hollow midlink instead?

    Seems to me like the screws were stripped from the time I got it...since the very first thing I did was try to size the band, and the three of the 5 screws were just spinning and not coming out.

    Thanks for the loctite tip.

    Have you actually compared the TT bands from startime (which as far as I can see sell for $500-900) vs a Gen band? The price is almost similar enough to just go gen...


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  20. Oyster bracelet from startime - 20mm hollow end lug

    in The Rolex Area

    Posted

    If the pin turns but doesn't come out, it's stripped. If the end of the screw comes thru the link, you might be able to put a punch on the screw end and press down on the link while turning the slotted end of the screw. If that doesn't work, you'll have to drill out the screw from the threaded end. 



    Got it. The screws ends don't come through...so I'm wondering if it's worth getting it drilled out...I don't have a setup to do that. The band was about $60...I imagine getting a machinist to do the work to it would be about the same...maybe someone with some knowledge of this could chime in?


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