PAMman

Just a 'heads up' if anyone is interested. Check out Watchco in Australia www.watchco.com.au They have new Rolex 7mm triplock crowns available at $15 AUD which is approx 12.5$ USD. These are new and unused but loose packed (not bubble packed). I have found Watchco to be an excellent source of genuine material at fair prices.

Check out Watchco in Australia www.watchco.com.au They have new Rolex 7mm triplock crowns available at $15 AUD which is approx 12.5$ USD. These are new and unused but loose packed (not bubble packed).

Great rep. I have mine on a gen black rubber strap. I my opinion this is the most accurate, best quality rep straight out of the box. The 'white' dial is the same coral colour as the genuine Steelfish. On the gen strap, this is one rep that you could wear into the AD without any fear of being rumbled.

I broke mine as well - you should be able to get one locally from any decent jeweller / watch shop. You need a 9mm springbar - just try to get one the same thickness as the one that you broke. I didn't have any problem at all as the first shop I went to was able give me one straight away.

Thanks for all the responses. I have one of the earlier ETA Seamaster reps with the good bracelet (pins and segmented end-links) and good dial with 3 o'clock marker. However it has the thicker case (higher caseback), HR valve incorrect at 10 exactly. I just trying to improve accuracy with the case etc but possibly it's 'not worth the candle'. I also have one of the black ETA SMPs with the correct HR position and better crownguards but the overall quality of the case and bracelet is not as good as the older rep. Just another case of 'two steps forward and three steps backwards???

It is likely to be the wire spring that is at fault - either it has broken or weakened with use over time. You can replace it with the genuine item which is available from Cousins (in UK) or Ofrei. Hope this helps, Cheers.

Can anyone confirm, preferably with photos, the accuracy of the so-called 'closed factory' Bond Seamaster? I understand that this was fitted with an ETA 2892 and is the most accurate Seamaster rep to date. Apart from the accuracy of the detail how does the quality of the build compare to the MBW DRSD for example? I know that these Bond watches are no longer available but I'm considering offering my modded DRSD (by Plapatine) in exchange for one of these Seamasters. The DRSD has a gen crown / tube, modded CGs, drilled lugs and bracelet, aged lume and aged/polished case with paint removed from the caseback. The question really is: Are these two watches comparable in terms of quality and accuracy?.....Is this a sensible notion at all? I came to the rep scene too late to buy this Seamaster new and my tastes have changed from Rollie to other brands anyhow. Any advice, suggestions etc appreciated.

That's a genuine PAM 111. Dial and dial font is correct, crown is correct, crown guard is correct, movement is correct (based on a Swiss 6497-2 which has the larger escape wheel than the standard 6497), movement decoration and bridges are correct.

Yeah, me too.

This seller is fairly local to me but has never responded to any of my questions or offer to meet and buy any watch. I think that it's a scam.

The genuine 'painted' dials are actually a sandwich construction too, only the top, black layer is almost paper thin. This is why the lume appears to be recessed below the dial surface as Kostas (V) says. He's also right when he says that a gen 112 dial isn't available - if it was I'd buy it. I have a one of the gen 003 Tritium dials which I haven't built into a watch yet, but The Zigmeister has built my preA 001 with a gen crown etc - it's a gem. What about getting a proper rep dial made, with correct fonts etc. as a special project?????????

The ETA parts supplied from Cousins are 100% genuine, even though they may be individually packed in bags. I have had them supplied in bags and in individual bubble packs but it doesn't make any difference.

The Swiss (ETA) movement in the rep is the base movement used in the genuine Breitling SFSO and should last as long as any other similar powered watch which includes many well known Swiss brands. For example this rep has the same movement as an auto Tissot Seastar 1000 diver or a Fortis or an Oris etc etc so long term reliability should not be a concern, providing the watch is serviced in the same way as these gens will need to be serviced. The SFSO is a great start to rep collecting - enjoy it.

Yes, I've got a sapphire crystal from a rep 005 in Jimmy's case / bezel combo.

Can anyone confirm who can supply the version with the older movement, or does anyone want to sell theirs (older Asian movement only)?

I don't think there was but contrary to what most people seem to think there was a SS Aquatimer as well as the Ti version. I have seen so many posts citing the SS as being inaccurate when this simply isn't true.

What about a genuine 6mm twinlock - I think it's the correct crown for this watch although I'm not a Rolex expert. Send me a PM if that's what you are after.

Surely the only 6497 movements which are 100% Swiss are the those with the original shaped plates and no Swan Neck regulator. They are available in at least 2 grades / finishes - one which is plain and was used in early Panerai reps with foil RAIPANERAIPANE cover plates (036, 005, 111, the first 127s etc), and a CDG finished movement with blued screws and sunburst gear wheels. There are at least two versions of the CDG finished movements - one has a broad stripe at 45 degrees to the winding stem (the same as the genuine Panerai preA movements) and another with narrower stripes at 90 degrees to the stem (the same as the genuine Panerai preV movements). Possibly the narrower stripe was simply an earlier pattern as the broader stripe is the current decorated offering. This theory would tie in with the earlier and later Panerai models and would explain why I cannot get one of the narrower CDG movements although I have seen them in various display back watches that crop up on Ebay from time to time. All the Swan Neck movements have Panerai shaped bridges and these are not available from Swiss ETA, therefore they must be at least partly Asian. I expect that the first of these was Swiss modified but over time (and due to cost) it would make more sense to replicate the whole movement in China / TW or wherever.

I have had more hassle with mine than any other component - it's just a POS. Chuck it out with the trash.

I agree that the dearer 'super reps' don't make much sense particularly if based on an Asian chrono movement (or worse still a modified A7750) which can't easily be swapped for a Swiss 7750. The Costeau Divers may look good but it seems that quality control is poor and the movement issue remains. However the rep Steelfish is an excellent piece of kit - very accurate with good AR, a simple ETA movement which is the base movement for the gen Breitling and good quality control. Put this on a gen rubber strap and you will have the full 'Breitling experience'. The handwound PAMs and the earlier Omega SMP are similar examples of good quality reps based on a simple ETA movements at a fraction of the cost of the originals. I share the OP's concern for where this hobby is heading and would urge our collectors to give attention to detail on some of the old classic favourites. For example the recent SMP is not a patch on the earlier version and the Panerai dials could easily be sorted to have accurate fonts etc. The more complex and exotic the model which is repped the less believeable it is for the wearer and more likely it is to have QC issues and an unreliable movement. My Steelfish, PAM 002, 000, UPO and Bond SMP are entirely believeable on my arm as I also have a gen black SMP, a gen Moonwatch a couple of gen PAMs etc. Just my 2 cents worth.

I think the title says it all. Has anyone successfully modified the CGs on their Seamaster SMP to mimic the genuine item? Any photos or advice? I am wondering if the crown tube can easily be removed and replaced to allow the CGs to be modified. I bought an older Bond SMP from another member, for my brother, and I have a gen black SMP. The CGs are the obvoius difference. BTW the old-school rep is a fantastic watch with a great bracelet and segemnted end links etc - a top-quality piece.

I got a message from him during the last 24 hours. However he had an accident and has not been active on the board for a while but it sounds lik he will soon be back to normal again.

Personally I don't like the sandwich dial in the 44mm case so I wouldn't buy either the 111 or 177 in the H - J series. For me Panerai is all about history and heritage and the painted dial is the way to go in the 44mm models. Therefore, if buying a new watch I would go for the 005 (or 000) or buy an older model. Amongst Paneristi there is a growing concern about increased yearly production and diminished exclusivity which has brought a greater interest in older models, particularly the 'T' dials etc. Why not aim for a mint B, C or D series 111 (with a closed back) which is still an affordable 'classic' Panerai. These are harder wearing and lees prone to scratches than the much softer titanium and can be polished again if needed. Also they will at least hold their current resale value and will probably increase over time, unlike a new purchase. Whatever you choose enjoy your watch.

As I understand it, the original post at the top of this thread acknowledged that both movements are Asian but simply asked if anyone could confirm if they are interchangeable with each other, and more specifically if the date wheels are the same and would line up in the same window in this UPO Lite. In other words is the spare movement a viable swap for this watch? I haven't a clue about Asian movements but I understand the question.

Buy a genuine box set from paneristi.com It will have a good resale value if you want to get rid of it again.