PAMman

Hi Kostas. I have assembled a number of Jimmy's CGs, also using a link pin removal tool, and on the first one the tool slipped off the head of the pin and dented the CG. It took ages to refinish the CG to remove the dent. Since then I use the same link pin tool but now I line up the pin and the tool and before I make contact onto the pin head I put a knife (Stanley knife) blade between the two. This means that the tool is putting pressure directly in line with the pin but it cannot slide off and damage the surface of the CG. This is a great method for pushing the pin completely flush with the top of the CG. I stick sellotape on the blade which means that there is no metal-to-metal contact to result in any scratches on the CG. Try it - it really works. T

Looks really well. I like your dial with the vintage lume. BTW, a 004 (& 009) has a black PVD finish - this is a 001. Enjoy your watch and wear it in good health.

Possibly you tried to reset the date when the watch was between 10pm and 2am. If that is the case allowing it to run for 48 hours may rectify the problem. Replacing the Asian 7750 with the ETA has been done before. The sub-dial hands won't fit but I think that I have a source for ETA fit alternatives.

Hi Mark, count me in for my 029. Thanks.

1 for me too. Thanks.

I have already voted yes. In the gen I would prefer a chrono but I would fit a decorated 2892 A2 to a non-chrono rep, for a top-flight watch.

I am in the middle of this swap with The Zigmeister and I have sourced white and silver hands to suit the sub-dials which are too large on the Asian movement. The Asian center seconds is slightly too small but I'm hoping that it can be reamed out to fit.

Excellent photos and a lovely watch. I have a genuine Omega movement for one of these so I am tempted to buy one, otherwise I had intended fitting it into a Navitimer. Pics like this would tend to push me towards buying the rep.

Kostas, the case / stem tube should push into the case fairly easily and will protrude enough to allow the rubber seal inside the crown to be compressed when the CG lever is closed. Also the crown should not push fully against the case when closed - it is this 'sticking out' part of the tube which sets the crown at the correct position. Jimmy's case and tube is exactly the same as the original Panerai item and it fits the genuine crown and crown guard 100% without any adjustment. My experience is that a crystal / bezel press is a must, in order that the case can be assembled properly.

I have a 2893 029 from EL and initially I thought that the dial and hands were inaccurate (hands too long and dial layout too wide) because the reference pics on the Paneristi forum(s) showed a different version. The 029 were first produced in the A series with 'T' dials and then in the B series with 'L' dials and the 2 versions have totally different layouts with the L dial having the digits and markers much closer to the outside of the dial and longer hands to suit. The rep version that I have is the B series with a correct L dial and longer hands but I have seen many references to the rep being inaccurate when it is simply being compared to the earlier version of the watch. I have got Palp's crown so I need to get the crystal and I'll wait for the datewheel before I get the mods carried out.

The Iwc Aquatimer Chronograph is one of my favourite watches. Whether Cousteau Divers or the standard version, if it can be made available with the Swiss ETA 7750 then COUNT ME IN.

The '64 Heuer Carrera and I bought one of the re-editions. I suppose it was my first 'replica'. It is still one of my favourite watches but so small that it gets little wrist time. It has the same Lemania based chrono movement as my original Moonwatch.

Beautiful watch Kostas. That photo shows exactly what I meant. The top, black layer is not painted on a flat base but is a thin sandwich layer, which in the case of my (ex) 111 was beginning to lift on the inside of the bottom of the 2 and similarly on the 3. It makes for really crisp edges to the lume that can't be replicated by printing. I suppose that, given the sheer size of the dial and markers this is the only way to get good edges to the luminous material, in a way that isn't critical on smaller dials or dials with smaller expanses of lume.

At the moment I have only one gen Panerai with Luminor (+ 2 Tritiums) so I can't compare the painted with a sandwich dial. However I have always thought that the luminous material will get less exposure to light at the bottom of the sandwich cut-out, than the painted 'flat' dial in a similar situation. Also, marginally less light may be emitted through the same cut-out. Consider it this way: if the top layer of the sandwich was 100mm thick it would be obvious that less light would enter and exit, to and from the lume, so there must be a decrease on a pro-rata basis that would result in a marginal decrease from a thin top layer. Incidentally, the flat 'painted' dial on the genuine A-G series 44mm Panerai (and current 000 & 005) is also a sandwich with cut-outs for the markers. This will be apparent only when you view the dial through a loup. I had a F series 111 that had the black layer lifting slightly on the inner tight curves of the 2 (of 12) and 3 digits. Also, when photographed with side lighting, some dials display the edges of the top, black layer of the dials. This helps explain the crispness of the edges of the lume on the gen dials.

I have an F series rep and I have fitted a solid B series caseback. It fitted perfectly. Looks and feels much better now.........it has a Jimmy Fu CG as well. Go for it. BTW if you can get the solid backs please drop me a PM.

I think that the 2000 rep is a great watch in its own right, but AFAIK it is too small in comparison to the genuine.

Looks just great in white. I could be really tempted. However I have a dead 'Series Special' with the old Asian movement and I have bought a ETA 7750 to fit into it. The hands should be a straight swop with the ETA. I also have a good gen dial but it is approx 2mm larger than the rep so no go there. Does Ruby have the standard 6-9-12 layout also? Does anyone know the case size and dial dia?

Great watch and excellent bracelet. It is easy to adjust - there's a button in the center of the back of each link. Press this button in with a toothpick or the brass tool which may be supplied with the watch and use another tool to push the link pin out from the side while the button is being held down. There is no need to force anything as these are very well made and fit well. Enjoy your watch.

Yes Mark. One for a GMT

'Mr Smith's' professionalism and attention to detail is absolute. I have no doubt that anything that he is involved in will be 100% or it will not happen at all. There will either be perfect CGs or no CGs. I have no fear of committing to buying this gentleman's product.

Excellent review. I have the TAG although I am not a huge TAG fan. I got one in a trade and intended to sell it but it's still here. BTW, the micro adjustment has a 9mm springbar holding the 2 parts of the clasp together. You only need to use 4 of your hands to adjust this one............1 to hold the watch, 2 to push in the both ends of the springbar at the same time and the 4th to catch the springbar when it flies out across the room (thats how I know it's 9mm - at least that's what the relacement one in mine is). I didn't even see what flew out but the local AD was able to tell me what it is and to supply another one.

I have emailed my intention to take 2 or 3.............I can confirm at least 3 if that helps. As far as numbers are concerned I would think that these would sell easily on ebay, similar to Jimmy Fu's. Jimmy doesn't sell on the forums so obviously the market for correct parts is much wider than the rep community. However you won't get any confirmed pre-orders for sales on the 'bay. It's a bit of a chicken and egg situation as you can't offer to the market what you haven't made yet. It would be rather 'naughty' to list a genuine G series crown on the 'bay, described as an accurate aftermarket part, only to withdraw it prior to closing, just to test the interest. Worth a thought though????

I just received my Ing and it is 100% perfect, with no chips and the bezel properly aligned. This one seriously impressive watch. The only drawback s the need for an extra link but one of the members has stepped up to help out. That's what his community is all about. Thanks RT for organising the Group Buy. By sheer coincidence I met a friend who is also a watch nut with a large collection of gens, including 8 or 9 Rollies (Daytona etc) and a gold Portuguese moonphase chrono. He was wearing his new AMG and his only comment was that he was torn between the SS because of its impressive weight and the look of the Ti AMG. He said 'Take good care of it because maybe we'll swop when we get tired of wearing hem'. *BTW I'm in for a strap too.

Hi V. Your Destro looks fantastic. The dial seems to be one of those where Luminova is thinly applied and the recessed markers are more obvious than many gens.............the best combination in my opinion. Contrary to what most people think, this series of dial B to G series are not painted but are also of sandwich construction with the top layer being very thin and usually the cut-outs are fully filled with the luminous material. However if you look closely at this Destro you can clearly see the edges of the recessed markers, which just looks superb. Wear it well.

I have one of Jimmy's CGs fitted on Joshuas 000 and it is a perfect fit. It is also a perfect fit on the genuine case, and the gen CG fits Jimmy's case perfectly. In my opinion Jimmy's cases are 1:1 copies of the genuine Panerai cases and I doubt if anyone could spot the difference. Don't forget Jimmy Fu is a highly respected Panerai collector and he had a batch of parts manufactured some time ago with the intention of producing his own unbranded watches. His stuff is in a different league to the usual rep watches.