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Posts posted by Triplock
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Quality Swiss ETA movements are lifetime movements and don't require constant babysitting. Just routine maintenance.
As much as I love mechanical movements I agree that a quartz movement with sweep second hand would be very cool if they would fit cases.
8 hours ago, automatico said:"Why not use a Yuki 3135?"
I would rather get away from a mechanical movement to something more reliable and does not need constant babysitting to keep it running.
Imho the Y3135 is at the lower end of the mech movement scale because of the high buy in price and no parts (same as the genuine item). After all, parts make the world go 'round. Affordable parts that is.
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15 hours ago, 508-Fanatic said:
That's very kind of you and I appreciate your offer! I'm a graphics guy and have designed a dial in Illustrator which HR is making. I hope to get it soon. I'm also going to experiment with gilt dials made with decal technique.
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Sub V6s A2836 as a base.
Removed cyclops.
Swapped black bezel for blue.
Swapped movement for genuine Swiss ETA 2836-2.
Parts obtained from various sources.
It's a fun watch to build and I hope to eventually have a custom dial with my name on it.
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@ChrisBlank Beat error is the clockwise and counter-clockwise rotation of the balance wheel. With zero beat error both rotations will be equal. Anything below 0.6 is acceptable, but I prefer 0 or close to it. Some people will accept higher values and I'm a hobby watchmaker and not a master, so other opinions will be welcome. For my watches I set timing and beat to a few seconds fast per day @ zero beat error. You will need a timing machine and to learn to make the adjustments. It's delicate and tedious, but fun if you enjoy nerdy things
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On May 24, 2016 at 11:44 PM, ChrisBlank said:
I would say that movement needs timing and regulation to get the beat error down. 0.5ms is right at the edge of an acceptable limit.
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@Mike_GReally nice lume job! Luming indices with a metal border is one thing, but lettering and indices without the border must be very tricky. I'd love to tips on doing this so I could do mine. This looks great!
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This might be the funniest thread in the history of forums!
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An outstanding project! I really unlike the white dial. Well done! Makes me want to build something similar.
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37 minutes ago, teton236 said:
Nice build.
please share the specs
JMB case set w/tube, crown, bezel, and crystal
T21 crystal
Yuki dial and hands
7206 bracelet from NDT
Swiss ETA 2824 running +3 secs
Distressing and vintagizing by me
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Recently completed 1016 project. Added a 7206 bracelet. -
There's nothing not to love about this build. Stunning all the way...congratulations!
I'm scared to ask what it would cost to source all gen parts like you've done.
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2 minutes ago, Revere said:
The watch's profile looks way beefier with a brushed finish, in a nice way.
I think so too, Revere. Shiny metal doesn't show contours as well.
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37 minutes ago, 997 s said:
more pics, more pics
Here's one for ya
6 minutes ago, jmb said:That looks great! I bought one of these when they first came out and I think only wore it once 'cause it was too shiny and "blingy" looking! This one looks like it means business.
Agreed. The Milgauss is the consummate tool watch. Nothing agains't the polishing, but brushed is so much nicer to my eye, and I think you can see the contours of the steel better.
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2 hours ago, Ryan310888 said:
Looks good. What did you use?
3M microfine and ultrafine foam backed polishing pads and good old Scotchbrite.
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I've just never been able to feel the love for polished center links. Here's my Milgauss GV with a new brush job. I also brushed the case and bezel and it's more to my liking.
Genuine green sapphire and Swiss ETA 2836 time to COSC standards.- 1
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1 hour ago, dbane883 said:
An expandable rivet bracelet (e.g. 6636) has links that spread apart when a force pulls at them. The links are held together by internal "springs". When the force is removed, the links retract to original length.
The links of a 7206, 9315, 93150, etc remain fixed when a force is applied. Non expandable bracelets encompass the vast majority of Rolex bracelets.
Thank you dbane! That explains it perfectly. Much appreciated.
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Pardon my ignorance but can someone explain what a non-expandable bracelet is?
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Milgauss w/genuine crystal.
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JMB case, Yuki dial, hands, and bracelet. ETA 2824.
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31 minutes ago, Revere said:
Very nice. My dad's gen milgauss is so nice to look at, I love the green crystal.
I'm not sure how difficult the process truly is. I'm assuming it has to do with doping the sapphire crystal with some contaminant, and it changes the coloring in that way. To get full transparency with just a green tint, it's probably on the order of parts per million or something like that. Semiconductor industry has been doing that for a long time with silicon, germanium, and other materials. Maybe they just want to make it sound fancy
Glad you like
Yes, it could be they're making sound more difficult than it really is, but has any other watch company made anything similar?
There's some interesting info on the subject on TRF. Rumor has it that Rolex uses the "hydrothermal method". -
Recently completed Milgauss with genuine crystal and Swiss ETA 2836-2.
The rep crystal is pretty nice with its AR coating, but it can't compare to the gen crystal. Rolex has this to say about its green sapphire:
"Green sapphire crystal - A unique watch crystal in green sapphire developed in 2007 by Rolex. Scratchproof, fade-proof and available exclusively on the Milgauss. Its light green shade, tinted throughout the entire crystal, turns nearly luminescent at the bevelled edges. The result of a secret process that required years of development to master and takes weeks to produce. Not patented, as it is so difficult to make that no one else would even venture to try."
So that's the reason the replica makers have not released a green sapphire crystal.What's interesting about the genuine crystal is that green only appears at certain angles and in certain lighting. The photos might make it look like you're walking around with a luminescent green circle on your wrist, but that's not the case. It looks quite normal until the light catches it just right and you get a brief and brilliant flash of color. Fascinating!
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Nice to see this, Mike. It turned out really well and looks great. I have one started myself with JMB case and 2824-2.
Do you think you'll ever go with a steel bracelet or keep it on leather (which looks good btw)?
Submariner 116613 V7
in The Rolex Area
Posted
Curious to know how you messed up the Milgauss bracelet. And what did they charge you for a replacement?