rm1406

Beautiful build. At this rate, I think there will be more Rolo-gens out there than genuines! Looking forward to the day collectors are comparing a gen they're thinking about buying to the RJ special and saying "Hmm, this one is all wrong, case shape is slightly off, dial looks too new, nowhere near as nice as the vintage one I purchased from Rolojack!" More gen than gen

Wow, that side-by-side. Looks the business, great build A very minor detail, but Sogeha is bang-on about the tip. Little too short and too wide. Jeez, might be lower than 0.1% "Hey buddy, nice invicta. Did you get yours at costco too?" On some level, I don't understand the point in owning such an expensive piece (in gen, that is). It would break my heart to have such a fantastic watch both in design and history, and not feel comfortable wearing it out and about (which I certainly would not).

Great read, Auto. Interesting comments about the 3-6-9 being roughly 1/2 the marker spacing. Glad I'm not going crazy (ha...). I feel that overall the NDT dial looks to fit the bill, though Ruby's has slightly better numeral spacing. The lume and print though, oof. Reminds me of a post (I think by JMB and/or Lhooq) talking about how Rolex isn't/wasn't exactly the paragon of consistency (especially in the old days) they're often held up to be given dial variations of the 1016, even when accounting for intended changes across the 1016's 40-ish year production lifespan. Even given this little tidbit, the Ruby dial looks sloppy (both print and lume app) especially for the asking price. Perhaps that's an old picture and things have changed? I've completely lost perspective at this point. My favorite example is when I show the lady friend a new latest (better!) dial and the response is "I thought you already had two of those, why do you need another one?" When I really think about it, she's right (per usual). I'd certainly be happier with the watch had I never researched anything, no doubt there, and less money down the tubes to boot! :P

Hi all, I sold my whoopy 1016 dial a while back (regrets, but times are tough, friendo). Recently, purchased a yuki 1016 dial thinking that I'd be okay with it, but it's really not tripping my trigger (numerals too small and too widely spaced, allowing for a lot of dead space in the dial). Maybe I just got a dud of a dial, but I'm also fairly certain this is (was?) a known issue. I knew about it before the purchase, just didn't think it would bother me quite so much. Looking at it now, I don't know what I was thinking. Anyway, given that whoopy dials are darn tough to come by these days, I was looking in to other options. NDT seems eerily similar to Ruby's, but numeral spacing still seems slightly wide (though I may just be going crazy from staring at so many different dials). NDT dials also look like they have much cleaner ROPE text, with visible serifs all the way through. Were there ever 1016 dials produced without serifs? Maybe someone with more expertise can comment on this. Rumor has it Ruby's 1016 dial is nearly/equivalent to an MQ 1016 dial, and from stock pictures looks a cut above the yuki in terms of dial proportions and slightly more appropriately spaced COSC text. The ROPE text seems a little rough given that the serifs are there, but difficult to see due to the print quality. The lume looks a little bit like I tried to apply it, but you'd expect a little drift in a watch this age, right? Last concern is the feet position of the dial. Ruby says its standard 15xx, wondering if they wouldn't be able to "refinish" a eta 28xx dial. I'd prefer not to use dial dots if I don't have to, even if it costs a touch more. Anyone have any experience with any/all of these dials and care to comment? Any thoughts appreciated. R

Top notch work as always RJ, enjoy seeing your continued work. Normally the 1655 isn't really my jam, but this one has me thinking maybe...

But did manage to strip and wreck three separate tubes in the process! You'd think I'd learn...

I was that person this time... Case looks great JMB, great tutorial!

He does, unless he's changed his policy since I sent him my dial. If you search for everest watchworks his site should come up. He gave me a pretty good estimate of how long it would take (just over a week from when the watch was received), and once I confirmed he had the watch, I left him alone until he e-mailed me with QC pictures. Further support of his work and reliability here from more reputable members than myself: That commando dial is a rarity, don't see to many of those about. Wasn't that watch originally a 34mm case, and hand wound? Looking forward to seeing the finished product...

- vibes and hayden: those are both fantastic looking 1016's, would either of you mind providing specs? I always like to see what others have used. mano- Cost was $142.50 to strip and lume the hands, and lume the dial. I can't recommend Kent enough. He's provided lume service for plenty of 1016s (both gen and franken), and I couldn't be more pleased. I can't find the lume shot he sent me, but his work is really top notch. He was patient and worked with me to find the "light" vintage that I was looking for. Also, I found a better shot (from Kent) of the watch head before he sent it back.

Thanks everyone! JMB - I'm not so sure you couldn't sell through 500 cases, I'd (try to) be first in line if the case makers decide to go back to the 28.5mm seat. Other than the dial seat, the case is fantastic. I've been wavering back and forth about trying to drum up a 16014 case because I feel like it'd be a step down in that regard, especially for the going price. Are yuki's dials actually 29mm these days? They're listed on the site as 28.5, but I wonder. I am itching to do something with the 2846 I received, and am thinking about doing cheap-o tudor 7924 with a tiger concept big crown and raffles dial I have lying around to try my hand at vintaging.

Hi all, My first post, and my first build, it's been a little while in the making, but I think it came together nicely. It's a fairly standard build from what I've gathered, here are the specs: JMB case (+ engravings) Clark's tudor hands gen spec tube gen 1601 crown whoopy dial (lumed by Everest Watchworks) a2824-2 movement WSO 455b endlinks tiger concept bracelet (not great, but okay for now, will replace later perhaps) I was having a hell of a time centering the dial, as the dial seat in the new JMB cases measures 29.2, and the whoopy dial is gen spec 28mm. That extra millimeter is a pain. I cut some shims out of a razorblade and wedged those in between the case and movement spacer, and by my eye the dial is mostly centered at this point. It's been bugging me, though (maybe I just need to get over that) and I'm thinking about upgrading to a gen 160XX case for a dial seat that fits the dial properly so I don't have to mess with the shims ever again... I have a gen eta 2846 that I purchased, but I missed a 16014 midcase that was in great shape on the bay, I was waffling on pulling the trigger due to price. Oh well. The 2846 may yet go into a 7928 build. Big thanks to JMB for putting up with all my noobie questions, and of course LHOOQ, for all the 1016 threads, without which I couldn't have put this together. Also, to Kent at Everest Watchworks for the amazing lume work. Lastly to the rwg community, for a wealth of information to learn from. Now, pictures!