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Dawagner

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Posts posted by Dawagner

  1. Hey all,

    Looking for some tips/recommendations. I bought one of those 200 valjoux 72 Daytona cases from eBay and I am trying to install a Clark T21 Crystal on it. I also bought a new bezel from WatchNY on eBay and it is just a bit too snug where when I try to force it onto the crystal installed on the case the crystal ends up breaking where it seats onto the case.

     

    When I try the crystal and bezel when not on the case it seems like it would be a perfect fit, snug but not too bad and I can squeeze the crystal through.

     

     

    What do you guys recommend. Do I try to widen the internal diameter of the bezel OR do I sand down the crystal to get it to fit?

     

     

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  2. So I have decided to start off the path of building myself a V72 powered 6263 Daytona.  One main element for that build is a Valjoux 72 in good running order, or in my case a questionable eBay score.  I snagged it for $1300 so not too bad but after digging in it has definitely seen some better days.  Some rust (thankfully only mainly affecting screw threads) and some shotty repair/replacement work BUT it does run pretty decent right out of the case.  Right out of the old case and on the timeographer it was reading +1sec/day, +1.46ms Beat error,  and 277 amplitude.  Im hoping with a nice clean and fresh oils we can improve that.

     

    Anyways I took photos along the way to keep track of where all the parts go and figured I would share with the crew here incase anyone else decides to go down this road.  Sadly when taking the photos it didn't hit me to keep the same orientation of the movement for each shot so I edited my best to keep it somewhat consistent shot to shot, If I do get around to photographing the assembly then ill keep that in mind.

     

    To kick it off Ill start with a shot of the whole movement and a close up of the "aftermarket" hour recording jumper spring I didn't notice before I bought it...

     

     

     

    _DSC3311.jpg

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    And on to the disassembly, Starting with the dial side standoffs and chrono parts. 

     

    _DSC3313.jpg

     

    Hour Recorder bridge first (Boomerang shaped part left of center).  Hour Hammer [censored] is next (large giraffe shaped part with two large screws just right of center)

     

    _DSC3315.jpg

     

    Hour hammer and Pawl next which were under the hour hammer [censored] on the right side along with the large long Pawl spring contacting them.

     

    _DSC3318.jpg

     

    The large curved Dial standoff on the left is next ,

     

    _DSC3319.jpg

     

    And on to the reverse side to start on the Chronograph parts.  These ill just show instead of naming parts.

     

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    Heres the underside of the train wheel bridge.

     

    _DSC3351.thumb.jpg.15cf7d62c3774be6f350dd02b16584d4.jpg

     

    Shot of the wheels in their places

     

    _DSC3352.thumb.jpg.b814d2edaf029cb16180f571b711031b.jpg

     

    Escape and seconds wheel removed

     

    _DSC3355.thumb.jpg.4cafa0af2a1939673c0962789b47e0c2.jpg

     

    And home stretch back to the dials side for the keyless works and the other thing :) 

     

    _DSC3356.thumb.jpg.7a7fa983760e35c911ecacb4b1e651f1.jpg

     

    _DSC3357.thumb.jpg.7df87dc6959744ad0f3ac8bafb781ece.jpg

     

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    _DSC3359.thumb.jpg.9137ccccdb93283f57e5068a04c4dc2a.jpg

     

    Check out how dirty the main spring is.  Nasty stuff.

     

    _DSC3360.thumb.jpg.2d7e6af0dabc8060b3ddc35e4181014f.jpg

     

     

    And one last shot of all the Chronograph parts next to their respective screw.  They all have their own unique size screw so I wanted to make sure I got this shot for the reassembly.

     

    _DSC3343.thumb.jpg.1329eb546b8c76464c31684908343880.jpg

     

    Thanks guys!

  3. Hey guys,

    I recently bought a new staking set and it came with a set of these mystery (to me) tools. It is like a spring activated punch that reveals a sharp auger like punch when depressed.

     

    Take a look and let me know what these are and what they are used for.

     

    Thanks!1a5d249c1763b26bfcdc25a25718388f.jpg59158087ba8656a70e021b7710b77373.jpgce0c27fff447087f8c4a9e056d1190e0.jpg

     

    Sent from my SM-N975U using Tapatalk

     

     

  4. So for a Dial *like* this she sort of hastily threw out a min order of 500 at $24.95. I imagine she didn’t really think I was serious. I think 500 is a bit absurd. But 200 I can live with and if I’m stuck with inventory for a while I’ll survive. I see the structural supply issue as getting worse not better and I am willing to take a long term view on ideas like this. Apologies again it was a 5513 reference Dial but the price reflects the enamel paint job so not highly relevant.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    HR did a single dial for me a couple times. Hope they didnt stop doing that. Been pretty happy with them.
  5. Yes as I was saying in the other thread you started, a gen or clone 3135 will likely not be an easy transplant.   Your case does not have the milling on the internals that would support the holding of a 3135 movement and as mentioned above the dial and hands you have would not fit either.

     

    Even some of the truly high end reps cannot have a 3135 placed into them.    We are not trying to be mean but the watch in the photos above is not a high end rep, from dial to SEL's to the movement inside all indicate a run of the mill one and it will almost certainly NOT fit a 3135.  Just the diameter and height differences alone already show the issue you would face.  The 3135 is wider and taller than the DG movement.

     

    If you are set on wanting a watch with a 3135 I would recommend you purchasing one of the new JF factory sub reps with the cone 3135 already inside and then if you want to swap for Gen its will truly be a simple swap and you would get to keep the dial and hands.

     

    To answer what exactly the movement you have it appears to be a Chinese DG2803.  See the photo below for comparison.

     

    dg-2803.jpg


    Chinese Automatic Movement DG2803

    Ligne size 11.5, height 5.3, hand sizes 1.00/1.52/.17, functions: Day, Date, hour, minute, sweep.

     

    Compare these specs to the 3135

     28.50 mm(12½ lignes)

    in diameter, 6.00 mm - height

    • Like 3
  6. I'm not impressed with the three dials with the minute tracks- the 3/6/9s look too fat and the 3s stick out too much on the bottom. And like Horfan said, the 9 on #6 is funky.
    So that leaves J-4-1 by default. Or check ebay
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rolex-1016-EXPLORER-Matte-Black-Refinished-Dial/263774448049?hash=item3d6a2ea9b1:g:EVQAAOSwtrJbLbkZ
    That seller has a lot of nice looking dials. Definately a good find.
  7. There are off brand 510 wheels that work just fine. Many watch part supply stores sell the generic versions. Much more plentiful and cheaper than gen if you are just wanting to get the clones up and running again.

    Check out esslinger (usa) or cousins (UK).

  8. Zenith solutions inc. Is a common brand that makes watch and clock cleaning chemicals. You can buy their products from esslinger if your having doubts about what ever website your on.

     

     

    There are a lot of other companies that are close to the same name such as zenith American solutions which is some sort od insurance agency from what i can tell and a whole bunch of others which are not related and probably of variable legitimacy.

  9. Hey all,

    I have a cartel 6263 and the little pusher extension "L" bracket thing came loose and no longer engages on the movement to reset the chrono. What would you recommend to secure it back on?

     

    I was thinking one if the green loctite's but figured I'd check if anyone had a good tip before trying.

     

    Thanks!

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