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icewolf1
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Posts
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Posts posted by icewolf1
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Ok great will check with them.
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Ok great I'll go for this noob v7 SA3135 but where to buy it from?
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1) Buy the Noob v7 with SA3135. (aprox 400 USD) //
2) If/when the movement dies exchange it for a genuine 3135 with genuine date disc (add aprox 1800 USD) or a hybrid Yuki3135 with genuine parts (add aprox 1000 USD)
// 3) Get the hands and dial relumed with BGW9 Grade A (add aprox 200 USD)
// 4) Get a good modder to mod the solid end links as they have too much material (the SELs aren't recessed like on genuine, instead they are flush.
5) Exchange the crystal for either a genuine 25-295-CAR-V3 (add aprox 300 USD) or my preference a ProfStef non-cyclops double AR Crystal (add aprox 150 USD)
... Now it is a 1:1 (but still has some tells)
I would only do 1 + 3 + 5 to start with
OK great thanks...will go for that one
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Ok thanks guys yes I guess it's hard to tell when it's on the wrist. Ok what about the movement? Is that miyota 9015 really Japanese and regional miyota?
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There are NO true 1:1 reps of Rolex. All have some tell or other. There are some very good ones out there though.
Any good place to buy the best ones? With high quality movement?
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Guys,
I am looking to buy a submariner rep and found this with miyota 9015 http://www.pf-818.com/0-0-rlss00016-116610-black-ss-sub-jap-m-9015-3135.html
Is that a good 1:1 rep? or at least hard to tell the difference type of a rep? also how about the movement?
Please help
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Ok thanks ... will buy that
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IWC Spitfire chrono
in The IWC Area
Posted
What about the movement? Does it break easy this a7750? I watched a video where the guy said buy a manual winding watch that would last longer. Is that true?
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