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southcoast68

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Posts posted by southcoast68

  1. Hi all

     

    I know I'm late to the party and not eligible to win, but I got a joke anyway.

     

    A man goes to his doctor for a physical, about half way through, the doctor says, "you know you really should not masturbate so much." The man replies, "why, am I causing myself some kind of harm?". The doctor replies, "no, but you're hand keeps getting in my way."

     

    Badda boom boom...

     

    Happy holidays everyone!!

    Cheers B)

  2. I have three DDs' that have a genuine dial, each watch came from a different source (Josh, Trevor, and used from another member). The one from Josh and the one from Trevor both had genuine dials drop right in, both the day and date windows align perfectly and look great, both used the more modern flat dial. The used one I made into a vintage using an older pie pan dial, the day and date windows did not align and I had to make my own day and date wheels. So, I would say that as long as it is a rep of the older DD (not the newer, larger DD-II), and you use a flat genuine dial, it should work. One thing though, if you try to use a dial with stick markers, you will find that the hands will not clear the taller markers on the gen dial and you will have to either a) change the hour wheel and pinions to taller versions, or B) slightly bend up on the minute and second hands (like I did). See picture below of my vintage using an older pie pan dial;

    DD1.jpg

    DD2.jpg

    Good Luck!

    Cheers B)

  3. Thanks for the reply. Yep, I remember Freddy's thread on the perfect rep Daytona, and I just went and reviewed it again. However, and this may just be a trick of the camera lens, you're bezel still looks flatter than the normal rep fare. Most if not all faux chrono Daytona's have that flat case back that also has that nasty looking "Winner of the Daytona 500" etched into it. I often thought that if that etching is not too deep, then some quality time with a dremel would remove it, and if that caseback is the same size and thread as what the 7750 case back has, then that solves that problem.

    Using this same case you used along with the newer A7750 with the closer subdial spacing from the Zenith Defy Chrono rep and the elprimero Daytona dial would make one hell of a project. I was going to try this a while back myself, but I had to sell some stuff to pay some bills and that included selling the elprimero dial I had, so its all out of reach to me now. Anyway, I have been barking and snarling about the rep makers doing this kind of rework for the rep Daytonas for a while now, but I've all but given up since they seem to be sufficiently occupied with comming up with a seemingly endess parade of AP ROO chronos of every color, vast varietys of Panarai watches that all look the same to me after a while, and Hublot after Hublot after Hublot.....

    Still, they do an awesome job, better than they have ever done, but seriously, they can certainly do what you, Domi and Freddy have accomplished here.

    Once again, great project, all the best to you!!

    Cheers B)

  4. Great stuff, looks fantastic!! Congrats, on all you're projects!! I do have questions though;

    1. is the bezel genuine, or is it aftermarket?

    2. what crystal was used?

    3. is the caseback genuine, or aftermarket?

    4. did Domi have to modify the 7750 to run without the rotor (making it manual wind) so the flatter caseback would fit?

    And a question for our rep makers;

    Why can't you make a Daytona like this ??!?!?!!!??

    Cheers B)

  5. When you are buying a Daytona witch seems not to be 100% original, it's all about believing... ;)

    But it's a good reading and you are right, it's absolutely possible this one is 100% original.

    You know where we are - we (and I) take much attention with the "details", and even if we make mistakes sometimes, it's still interesting to watch about these details to learn more and more about these sexy Daytona's :)

    I cannot agree more with you ! Correct dial, or not, this watch is amazing :D

    It is in all the details isn't it, and its the verification of a solid source of information in which we all look for to better determine if something is real or not. After all, this solid verification helps us make better projects for ourselves ;) .

    It makes me think of the GMT that Nanuq has which features the "radial mini" dial like the one I have. At one time, folks would have dismissed it as a redial or aftermarket until some real authorities in the subject on the gen websites verified that dial as just another variant of the real deal (see pic below).

    Cheers B)

  6. Hi all

    Concerning the non-oyster dial on this watch, let's consider the following;

    Even though this watch was purchased brand new in 1969, it may very well have been manufactured in 1965, please refer to following information from Melrose Jewelers website;

    Subsequent Models of Rolex Cosmograph "Daytona"

    Over the years, Rolex came out with the following new Daytona models, each showing some technological improvements over the previous models in some way or another:

    Model 6262 & 6264: In 1965, model 6262 replaced the model 6239, while the model 6464 replaced the model 6241. These models were an improvement over the earlier versions as they utilized a new Valjoux 727 movement.

    Model 6240: It was a completely new model, also launched in 1965. Its unique feature was its screw down waterproof pushers making it waterproof to a level of 165 feet. It was also the first Rolex Daytona that had "Oyster" engraved on its dial.

    Model 6263 & 6265: Introduced in 1971, model 6263 was an improved version of Model 6262, while model 6265 improved upon model 6264. These improved versions featured the new screw-down waterproof pushers. They were also the first Daytona models to use a new larger Triplock winding crown.

    Model 16520/16523/16528: These models include the new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, launched in 1988. While the tachymeter scale present in these models calibrated to the usual 200 units per hour, it was soon thereafter upgraded to 400 units per hour (as can be found in all current Daytona models). The only difference between these models was that while model 16520 was available in stainless steel, model 16523 was available in a combination of stainless steel and yellow gold (two-tone) and model 16528 was available in yellow gold only. These models were powered by caliber 4030 Zenith El Primero movement, which gave them an edge over previous models in terms of performance.

    Model 16518: Rolex launched a new Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona model in 1992, which was made available only in yellow gold. It also featured a leather strap and safety deployment clasp. It was different from the earlier models due to its bezel, which sported small triangles in place of small dots pointing to the individual calibrated numbers.

    Model 16519: Introduced in 1997, it was similar to model 16518, the only difference being that it was made of white gold.

    This may have been one that went through the system using dials that were being used up from the previous years, in manufacturing, it happens. Much like a 1965 Mustang I used to own which was verified to have many parts on it from the previous year (what some folks call a 1964-1/2), when Ford switched to the full 1965 model year and to a generator charging system, many trim parts from the previous run were used up along the way (like trim, carpeting, door handles, etc.), hence the confusion as well as claims of "its not all original".

    Very possible that this Daytona sat in the jewelers store for a few years since Daytonas' of the time were not popular with buyers due to the fact that it had to be hand wound often which put accelerated wear on the crown and tube. This and the added cost made these stick around for a while. From what I have read (in some of the same books that are not considered as gospel), that jewelers were often cooperative in swapping parts to a customers liking to make a sale, explaining why some Daytonas that should have black bezel like this example actually have an all steel bezel. At the end of the sixties, Zenith and Seiko introduced their own self winding chronographs making these older Daytonas sit even longer.

    I'm believing that this watch is all original, I am also believing that it was purchased new in 1969. But I also believe that this was an early 6240 that just got the wrong dial at the start, it happens, and its not something somebody would complain about and have changed back at that time when these were just watches that people would wear and enjoy. Remember, contrary to what you read in some books, Rolex watches are not "perfect in every way".

    In short, its gorgeous, and I wish it were mine!

    Cheers B)

  7. The El Primero movement in the seconds at 9 is every bit as complex as Rolex's second at six. Both require building a new movement from the ground up (if you want working chrono, proper case thickness and pusher and crown placement).

    They already have a 7750 seconds at 9 with closer sub-dial spacing that they use on the Omega PO chrono and the Zenith Defy chrono (Joshua sells them both) which should also yeild a better looking seconds at 9 Daytona. It would not solve the case being too thick, but it would be more reliable than that seconds at 6 hot mess they have been pushing for years now. Still, we all dream on.

    Cheers B)

  8. Here are three differences I see right away (circled in red), a.) balance mounting size, b.) jewel size and c.) keyless works a bit different.

    post-783-0-77250800-1323455308.jpg

    post-783-0-65614300-1323455337.jpg

    At the keyless works, the release button for the stem is in a slightly different position leading me to believe that the stems do not interchange (a problem if you damage one in installation). The other two instances may not be a big deal, unless something there breaks during tear down and servicing. I think just the fact that these movements can accept genuine cases, hands, dials and date wheels without modification is the major draw for folks in the rep world and the other minor stuff fades to the background.

    I think most will find difficulty in using these for the following reasons;

    Using ETA - Using an ETA movement was comforting to us since if it broke, it could be serviced with readily available parts, even though we had to use spacer rings and such to make them work in projects. However, with more restrictions in getting ETA movements and parts, would servicing ETAs get more difficult as we move forward anyway?

    Using Asia or ETA clone - Using these was comforting to us in the fact that they were for the most part, pretty good runners, and if they broke, we could just chuck them out since replacement movements could be had - for cheap.

    Using this SA3135 - Using this movement worries us since it is new, largely unproven, has proprietary parts, is expensive to buy, and currently only available through one vendor that we know of. All this and the fact that is would be inappropriate to use this movement in a vintage build since it is a high beat rate as opposed to a low beat rate.

    With all this being said, I think I can predict that Angus over at Pure time is going to be busy filling orders this Christmas season :yeah:

    One of these needs to make it over to The Zigmeister for a full writeup and performance study.

    Cheers B)

  9. This is exciting news for Rolex fans indeed! As far as the case, I really don't think it looks that bad, we have all seen worse I'm sure. For those who remember rep life before the Noob existed, something like this would be a virtual unicorn for most and only available to those in-the-know folks who have the special handshake, secret password and the like. However, I do see many of these being sold to have the movement be installed in a WM9 or BK Sub project. I myself am curios if this movement would fit a gen DateJust case (16013, 16014 case) since I have two currently with ETA's in them, this would really make them that much nicer.

    Cheers B)

  10. I got this sub from Silix a couple of years ago, it does not have gen like bezel construction, but with some casework, dial and hand aging, glued in place Sternkruse crystal and a aftermarket Nato band gave me these results;

    3691.jpg

    3692.jpg

    Mine was a bit more in price since I opted for one with an ETA instead of a Asian clone (and from the best of my knowledge, it is an ETA).

    Cheers :peace:

  11. Well , the dealers have learnt. This is not advertised as a "1:1 copy", it is a "I:1 copy"... :whistling:

    Even with the flaws, I personally thinks it is a decent out of the box replica. One thing that buggers me is that it seems to have the fat case, as the 1655-replica has. I have ruined an otherwise nice watch by grinding down the case.. As long as the lugholes are in relative good location and there is no "date" on the dial, I am happy. Sometimes almost must be "good enough".

    Nice reference pictures of a 1969 genuine. Sems like the lugholes still is 1.0mm and not 1.2mm:

    It also states in the description "bezel clip on construction exactly similar to genuine..."

    "exactly similar!!???" :blink:

    Yeah, I know its probably a translation thing, but I just could not resist in poking at it :bicycle: .

    For me, it still seems like there is no such thing as a vintage GMT that looks even close to being right, but we always appreciate the effort.

    Cheers B)

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