Amplitude

Another cheap and worthwhile mod is thicker diameter springbars. They'll snug the end links up to the case properly. Looks good!

pictures can be decieving.. .if you take a picture too close up, the rehaut will appear conical in the photo for some reason.. you need to take the pics in the macro setting at a medium distance at high resolution then crop it down to size later.

It looks that that undr the eye loupe too. That's why I noticed and took the pics. (I did use the macro) The sides aren't straight, you can see it's not an illusion by the reflection of the markers inside the case. Anyhow, I just thought it was interesting. Next time I see one I'll try to post pics of it. Not all of them look like that.

Sorry I took so long, forgot to take pics on Saturday. Here they are. I'm not a very good photographer, but here are the ones that came out.

I work on a lot of different watches at the jeweler I work for, and I started to notice on some of the newer subs the "rehaut" is conical, just like some of the reps here that people try to avoid. I have a two tone sub on my bench, not sure of the age, but it has solid end links, and drilled lugs. The movement has a free sprung balance. I suppose it's fairly new. (I'm not a modern Rolex fan, so I don't know much about them, I just work on them.)

I haven't been able to take good pics before, but I have a new camera now, so I'll take some pics tomorrow so you guys can see what I'm talking about. It looks just like some of the pics I see here of reps that are considered incorrect. I'll shoot a pic of the movement too so you can see I'm not trying to put one over on you. The only Rolex fake I have is a (very modded) "MBW" red sub and like I said, I don't keep up on Rolex much, so this may be common knowledge anyhow, but it's nerw to me. I will also be posting some pics of the more interesting stuff that comes through for fun as often as I can.

i understand how you can fill the holes and file the down and polish them etc.. i just cant picture how you attach the pin to get the bracelet back onto the clasp after? Or have you mounted it perminantly now with no adjustment? Im assuming its similar to the clasp on a rolex submariner with the adjustment holes?

No adjustment holes, the gen is probably fixed in the same manner, with a permanent pin. That's why the holes aren't there. The links are pretty small on the 3717 bracelet, it's easy to get a comfortable fit just by removing them.

Sorry I'm not better at describing the process. Wish I could take good pics. It is "permanent", though the pin is crimped a little close to one end, and that tension is what hols it in. It is possible to remove it with a strong link pin push tool, or tapping it out with another pin if you had to replace it.

I just have a camera on my phone.. I've tried to take closeup pics before. Doesn't work. Sorry.

I was in the process of modding the insert on my MBW 16610 and managed to bust the little gasket that holds on the bezel. I compared it to a caseback gasket on a 6263 that I had tore down on the bench and they appear to be the same. While I am at it I figured I would get an extra for my 1665 to use when I switch out to the T39. I have heard that there is a groove for a gasket under the retaining ring. Does anybody know where to source these in the US? I know Cousins has lots of gaskets, but I don't have the foggiest idea what I am looking for...

Get out your micrometer and measure the diameter and the width of the groove for the gasket. Order that size, or buy an assortment.

Yes, but ignored it because I thought the inner bezel rotates independently of the hour markers? Hard to tell alignment sometimes from angles.

I've checked out the gens, it does rotate independently, but with "clicks", so if it's misaligned it may be a difficult fix.

I've been a little reluctant to share this because I've been afraid of people swapping the datewheels and fixing the holes and selling these modded 3717s as gen. They really are that good with minimal work. (And BTW, the gens have yellow tubes on the hands, not white, just like the rep. Tired of hearing that one.)

But, I may as well. I'm not the only one who will think of this, and it's better people know than get screwed by somebody unscrupulous that does the same mod.

Push out the springbar that resides in the the bracelet at the "holes" location. Pull the spring and springbar ends, and keep the tube. Put the springbar tube back into the tube in the bracelet. It's a snug fit, and it will take up slack and wobble later.

Get a 1.05 or 1.1 mm (your hole size may vary, they come in all sizes.) stainless steel solid link pin (I'm a watchmaker and we have tons of these in the shop, so don't ask me where to order them, I assume Borel carries them since we get most of our material from there.) and a bench block, and a brass hammer. Remove the link that holds the clasp cover (The part with the "IWC" on it, and the button. Unscrew the small screw that retains the clasp latch/button, set it aside. slide the button out, and the spring. The spring is a long coil spring that sits in the bottom in a "U" shape, just telling you in case you pull it apart and are confused at reassembly.

Pull the other link that is attached to the rest of the clasp. Place together the two parts and hold on your block. Get your solid pin, and start tapping the tapered end (obviously not the crimped end, but just in case you are confused.) in the hole, through the clasp, and on through the other side. Try to seat the end as flush as possible. Use good end cutters to snip off the extra length.

Now you have no hole. If your pin was a proper fit, it will be nearly invisible when finished. Use a swiss file to get the other end flush. (Don't slip.) Take a thin, flat piece of steel (about 6mm wide) and attach a piece of 400 grit to the flat steel with 3m super 77 spray adhesive. Use this to sand the clasp and pin totally flat and flush on both sides. Remove as little material as possible. Graduate to 600 grit, then, 2000. You should just barely be able to see the edge between the pin and the clasp with a 3x loupe. Now, high polish with tripoli. You are finished. Looks just like gen, and much stronger than the original springbar too. Reassemble your button and bracelet and wear proudly.

While you are at it, you ought to finish all the edges of the clasp stampings in the same manner. (and the button, including the hole for the stud) Square all your edges up first with a file, them follow the same steps to get a finish like IWC applies to theirs. It will improve the "feel quality", and if you are a perfectionist, make you feel warm and fuzzy inside.

Also (you may have missed this) the gen crown has a more obvious, sloping bevel on the inside and outside edge. If you have a lathe, this is an easy fix. Obviously it can also be done by hand but will take longer and a bit more care. Finish the serrations perfectly too. And while you have your watch apart you may as well finish the end of the crown tube....

I own 2 21J's and both have hack-function.

It's a PAM090 Powerreserve and the Cheap but Great Chopard Mille Miglia GT XL.

Be warned though that the rotor of the 21J makes heavy noise when spinning it around. some try to fix this by using grease for the rotor bearing, but both The Zigmeister and my local watchsmith told me not to do so as the grease will definately spin out of the bearing at a certain point in time and thus polute the movement on areas where grease can do serious damage (!)

True, but your watchmaker can lightly oil the bearing with a heavier grade lube that will reduce the noise a bit without danger of gumming everything up. Grease all over the place won't really do any damage, (unless you use so much it gets on the dial!) but your watch will run like crap and it's an unecessary reason to require a yourself a service.

Don't try it yourself unless you have experience oiling watches. Too much oil in a watch looks like no oil at all to a layperson. That's probably why they are warning against it.

Light PML or d5 on the click and click wheel will also help quiet it a bit.

Certainly cannot go wrong either way. I have bought a dozen of the same movement you already have for myself as well as another dozen for other forum members. They will need servicing sooner than a brand new movement bought from ETA so in the long run the cost will be the same. But if it makes you feel better I have installed several and so far none have required servicing. Could be luck but who knows.

I bought a few of those too. They look fine, no wear to speak of, oiled nicely, and running very well. I have one in my 3717 fake.

The newer 25 jewel movement is a bit nicer, and will last longer with less wear because of the added jewels, but if you keep the 17 jewels serviced they'll last at least a lifetime.

Either way you will do well.

My IWC Asian Cousteau's day wheel is stick on Sat and won't move. I've called around couple watch repair shops in Seattle and they won't work on it.

Does anyone have any recommendations on a reputable replica watch repair guy? locally preferred, but at this point, I'm willing to send it to get it fixed.

Thanks

If you have basic tools you can probably fix it yourself. Somebody posted a thread about changing your day/date wheels to eta. Use that for a guide. The day wheel just drops in place on 7750s, asian and ETA. IF you bump it hard enough, or the dial isn't fitted as closely as possible to the movement, it can come loose and stop working. (It will probably look "cocked", or closer to the dial on the outside than the inside if this has happened.)

If this is your problem, try to follow the instructions in that thread if you have some basic watchmaking tools. Just remember to adjust the time until the date flips and stop there before you refit the hands at 12...

Order one from jules borel. Cut it to approximate size, then dress with a ladies diamond impregnated file. Buy more than one since you have never done this before. Trust me, and have patience when doing the work.

If there is any of the stem protruding from the crown, put the nub in a small vise and unscrew it from the crown. If there isn't, you'll need swiss files and a set of good watch screwdrivers. Heat the crown a bit with a lighter to break down any thread locking compound. Cut a small slot and unscrew it with your screwdrivers.

It's a tough job for a beginner with minimal to no tools.

Crazy. I guess I just got lucky! Glad I picked up a few while they were cheap.

Look at Borel's price now: ETA 7750 MVT MecMvt13-1/4X7.9 S,DD80/120/25 $450.00

So far, all my reps stops after 3 or 4 days (at most 5 days) after I fully wind it and wear it during day time office hours. As I only wear my watch for about 8 hours a day and I work in the office in front of my notebook most of the time, I guess the lack of wrist movement caused the watch to stop.

All my reps are with Asian 21j movement. However, I do not face similar this kind of problem with my Seikos with 7s26 movement. Looks like 7s26 winds easier than our Asian 21j movement.

Anyone having similar situation/problem with their reps. Or perhaps it's not a problems with all my reps, likely it's my little wrist movement during daytime.

You probably don't move your arm enough in the range of motion that they require to wind. Desk job, right? Happens to me sometimes too.

Lots of people have the same problem. I work for a jeweler as a watchmaker and we get at least one person a day in that can't keep an automatic wound because of their job.

If you walk briskly with good arm movement for about 15 minutes a day that ought to solve it. But it sounds like you may need a winder anyhow.

That sucks Veronica.

What kind've hardware were you firing, just out of curiousity?

Why do you guys buy chronos/7750's knowing they just. dont. work.?

They do work, they are just more complex. The 7750 is the most widely used chrono movement period. Very robust, but a hard whack can kick things loose in any watch, especially mechanicals. The more complicated they are the more parts there are to knock loose.

I stopped at the pistol range on the way home today - wearing my Ferrari Pam chrono. I only shot about 100 rounds. On the drive home, I noticed that the minute hand counter on the chrono was pointing to 19 minutes. And now it won't reset. Fun. Guess it didn't like the weaver stance.

The hand is probably loose from the tube. Get out the glue and a loupe.

Funny that happened to you; I went shooting this weekend with my newly installed swiss 7750 in my IWC 3717 this weekend, and my daywheel came loose. Pain in the ass.

I know the bezel dimensions are different on the genuine 42mm PO, I doubt the gen crystal will fit the rep of either size, but if it does, I'd love to know.

He left his IWC up. Is it possible to own a rep for sale and not know it? The guy sells handbags too.

Yeah, it's possible- look at his happy customers that now own reps without knowing. But since he's been pretty careful about selling the cream of the crop reps, very hard to tell if you aren't an crazy watch idiot like us, I'd say he's doing it on purpose because the likelyhoods of him being caught out is nil unless the bamboozled take their new watches into an AD to get verified. And some of them won't care, since they are so good, and they probably have no idea how low the actual price is on them. 8 years ago, if I paid 1000 for a near perfect rep of a 5000 us watch, I'd have been damn happy.

Poor folks.

Whatever , there is no hole on gen. 3717.Thank You i'am done here.

Whatever, the tubes on the hands of the gen 3717 are made of brass. Thank you, I am done here.

The hole is on the clasp, but shouldn't be there. That's gen clasp.

Aha.

Guess I have to break out the welder.

That hole is there on some IWC models, I worked on an IWC (Porsche Design) titanium quartz today that had the springbar hole. The tube must be partially cut to allow access on that clasp.

This is fake bracelet, same thing on every iwc bracelet - Ingie, gst etc. same thing on his bracelet....just look closer....

The flaw "hole" that you can't see in pic number three is where the springbar attaches the two halves of the bracelet. I'm pretty sure the gen bracelet has the same hole, otherwise you wouldn't be able to take the clasp apart. I didn't look for that on the Aquatimer when I looked at the AD.

Show me a clear pic of the gen bracelet missing the hole. If it's missing on the gen, I'll weld mine up.

I know that's a factory pic, but i can see the difference between silver and brown color silver - gen rep.- brown. simple.

Wrong. They are not brown on mine, they are shiny brass yellow. Just like the gen. Gen pics follow.

from a timezone.com thread.

i never seen bras pinions on gen. plus no box no paper, this one is fake

Look at the closeups of the 3717 in my bracelet thread. Those are all gens, and they are brass.

I have no idea why this rumor persists.

I have the Ultimate PO, and I am curious why my watch would stop on me while I am wearing it? When the watch is wound and sitting on my shelf, I can usually get a full rundown on the power reserve (at least 24 hours), but the watch will stop frequently while I am wearing it. I don't do anything drastic like run around or anything, usually just sit at my desk. I thought it was damaged and sent it back to the dealer, and they had their watchmaker take a look at it and said everything looked fine so they sent it back. I'm just curious what would cause that to happen to my watch while I am wearing it.

Has anyone else run into the same issue?

Thanks!

It could be a ton of things. Debris in the case that finds it's way into the movement while you move around, a missing cap jewel, hands running into each other or a marker...etc.

Take it to a local watchmaker or send it to one of the board guys.