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Found 133 results

  1. jimcon11

    Winter 7922 / Reflections

    I thought I'd share this Tudor 7922 big crown build that I finally have near completion after a few months of messing around with cheaper builds. Added are some thoughts that might help others since this is a very uncommon build. Specs: Rubyswatch 6538 case ETA 2451 18000 bph, non hacking DIY movement ring from a silix case Athaya 8mm crown and tube Vietnam 7922 gilt dial, aged by hologramet Jkhorological hands Default Vietnam plexi shaved ~1mm Phong insert and pearl Tropic dive strap total cost: ~$1400 Notes: •Case I've noticed that a lot of people advise that the dial is the most critical component of a rep and that you should start with the best available dial and go from there. I'd have to disagree and say that the case is the most important part. Before getting the Vietnam case I tried the HR and Silix, and both of them nearly put me off from wanting to continue wearing a vintage Sub. They're just too big in diameter and don't look right on the wrist. To me the early Submariners are basically regular sized watches from the era (read: SMALL by today's standards) but with an oversized case in order to make them super durable and functional for divers. It's a specific look. When you watch the early Bond movies, the 6538 does not look like a big, eye-catching watch. There are certainly some awesome looking HR and Silix builds, but to me the 1-2mm dial and case difference is a deal breaker. I'm probably in the minority here as I'm partial to smaller, vintage, particularly military watches. With that said, I think ability to accept gen parts is an even bigger factor. If you bother to wear a rep watch in the first place, you're probably attentive to detail, and over time you are going to want to improve your build. The cheaper cases are dead ends in that regard. Getting the Vietnam case opened my eyes, not only to how elegantly designed the early sub cases are, but to how easy it is to improve on this build with gen parts in the future. Regarding Rubyswatch, this case was not perfect. The finish is spectacular: chamfers on the lugs are excellent in my view, lug holes are perfect, caseback and bezel function smoothly, engravings look great, and everything is brushed or polished as it should be. There is a minor flaw in the way one of the lugs is cut on its inside edge, but I'm being very picky there. Unfortunately the crown and tube I got were very bad. They didn't screw together properly and I stripped the threads in about one day. The tube itself was bare inside with no gasket and the crown didn't fit snugly as it should. Worse, the tube hole drilled into the case itself is not straight, it inclines as it heads into the watch, so that when I installed the Athaya tube it was noticably drooping downward off the side of the watch and would never have aligned with a movement stem. Long story short, I managed to bend the Athaya tube upward, probably about 3°, to exit the case properly perpendicular to the "ground", and the crown functions as it should. Despite the trouble, I would recommend dealing with Rubyswatch, I'm sure she would have accepted a refund or gotten a replacement if I had asked. Just be prepared to do some work if you want to pay half of Phong's prices. As far as this build goes, from reading around (here and VRF) I determined that early Tudor 7922s from ~1956 were cased with 6538 cases where the 6538 is struck out on the caseback and replaced with 7922. The 7922 big crowns were perhaps all military issue watches (MN, USN, etc.) total numbering in the 1-200's. There is a lot of confusion because later on, ~1958, Tudor seems to have released small crown subs labeled 7922 and big crown subs labeled 7924. Interestingly, the later 7924 used its own case that looks slightly fatter and has more bull-nosed lug ends from the side (more like a 5513 or 7928). So repping the 7924 seems like a lot of work since no one makes that case. I would need to fix the caseback and between the lug engravings to make this case totally accurate. I should also age it but so far I can't bring myself to do it. •Movement It was a pain in the ass to get this movement working after I lost the correct cannon pinion but the slow beat rate is something you immediately notice in the gen watches so it was worth the effort. Hopefully it won't cause trouble for a while. Originally from an interaktiv build so thanks to him. •Crown/tube The Athaya stuff looks and feels awesome and was really a lifesaver as shown above •Dial These are really hard to find so thanks to hologramet, who I think did an excellent job aging this one. As far as accuracy goes, it doesn't make sense that a big crown would have a 100m dial, but sure enough you can find several examples of seemingly original big crown Tudors bearing the shallower depth rating. Perhaps not many people build crownguard-less Tudor subs because there is really no accurate dial. The Tudor script in particular is different on these compared to the more famous 7928, which all the rep dials do a great job mimicking. See the difference, gen on top: The correct font is taller, thinner, and more calligraphic. They all look like that. It's subtle but a dead tell once you notice it. I realized this too late and just decided to go with the most expedient and nice-looking dial available, since not even Minh Quy seems to get it right. Let me know if you are aware of a more accurate dial... I may try to print one in the future. •Hands JKhorological are the best cheap hands I think. The proportions are off but it's not clear to me if anyone does better, even for ridiculous prices. Are the Michael Young hands still available? Hands are important to me and I might have to spring for gen eventually if I can ever find them. •Crystal The crystal coming with the case seems fine to me, although it was way too tall so I sanded it from the base. Maybe I need to go even a bit further? •Bezel The teeth on the Vietnam bezel don't seem totally accurate but I'm just so happy they aren't the big ugly square Silix ones The Phong insert I got also isn't totally accurate, it should have a narrower triangle and the pearl should sit higher. I really haven't seen one exactly like this on a gen watch, but I love the early, no minute hashmark and rounded font look. Almost all of the gen 7922s I've seen have either the round font/red triangle/minute mark insert or the later squared font with serifs insert that was undoubtedly a service replacement. All three I've described can look really nice and it was a hard choice. I bleached this one for a couple min and I'm really happy with the result. No more [censored] gluing in crappy Silix inserts!! Oh, and I definitely need to do something about the stock pearl!!. Not sure what yet as all my aging strategies would get washed off over time.. •Strap I really like the tropic straps even though they didn't appear until the 60s somewhere. This will be an unpopular opinion but I don't understand using a leather strap on a dive watch, leather is not going to hold up around seawater. But I do have to admit that some of the brown and black ones can look really nice. I'll eventually get a 7206 from Yuki or ruby and deal with that, but this project has already broken the bank for now. ____________ Well that about covers it. Hopefully this was an interesting or helpful read for a few of you. I'd like to hear what you guys think; there are some incredible builds around here and I wish I had stumbled upon this forum sooner. I appreciate the knowledge base here that helped me with the build and hope I'm adding to it a bit.
  2. Guys started out as sales thread but we are off to research the movement question So I moved as watch sold. MOAB View Advert Hi there, I purchased this JF 1:1 Submariner 116610 LN from puretime a couple of weeks ago with the intention of using it's movement in a franken project. The JF SA3135V2 basically is a Yuki 3135 with engravings and much better availability. I came to the conclusion that sapphire crystals just don't do it for me anymore and therefore I won't take this watch apart for it's movement. Here's the link to PT: http://puretime03.com/submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-jf-1-1-best-edition-on-ss-bracelet-sa3135-v2s.html I paid 486 USD including shipping, which equals 455 Euros today. As with every Yuki3135 or JF 3135V2 I highly recommend to have this movement serviced immediately! Do not even think of wearing this watch without the movement having had a proper service. Though it keeps good time it winds like it was 50 years old and has never seen oil in it's long life. That's nothing a proper service from an experienced watchmaker could not get rid of. The watch even has all protective stickers in place. It is unworn and brand new. Letting this one go for 385 Euros including worldwide shipping with insurance. I am in the EU but will ship worldwide. Buyer takes customs risk / fees / responsibility. Within the EU there will be no customs involved, of course. Let me know if you have any questions. Advertiser chefcook Date 02/19/2017 Price Category Watches
  3. madasboot

    almost there... 5513 Mil-Sub

    Inspiration: a 5513 (5**/76, delivered to the Royal Navy in March 1976) the hommage (low cost but time consuming) dressed in grey:
  4. Bart Cordell

    1962 gilt 5512 PCG

    Hi Friends ! I'm very happy to present my new baby. This project started by chance, I was fortunate to be able to buy a 700 gen crown and a 5512 PCG Phong case. Initially the crown was destined for my cartel 5513 but the day after its purchase I could not resist the opportunity to get a nice PCG case with correct crown eight. This was a quick decision to take as this case has the particularity of having a wider dial opening than the usual size for the 5512. It seems that for the first 5512, Rolex have used 5510 dials that measure 27mm. Then with the appearance of the 26mm dials a slight gap was visible between the dial and the rehaut. The 26mm dial not resting on the dial seat, the assembly was held in the case thanks to the fixings of the movement. With an ETA movement, which is smaller than the 1530 Rolex, this is not possible, the 26mm dial + movement set passes through the dial opening. So I had to be able to make a larger dial that can fit on the seat of the case. On this case, the diameter of the dial seat is 27.8mm. So I simply resized a 29mm dial in 27.6mm. The regulars know the following, removing paint from the dial, sanding with 200, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000 sandpaper, polishing, gold plating, decal then lume. Specs are : Vintagewatchmaker case set Gen Service T19 Gen 700 crown Athaya 7000 tube Athaya pearl ETA 2824-2 JKHorological Hands Beco 2mm gen spec bars Gen 93150 bracelet Yuran Rally strap Decal dial Thanks for reading ! With her sister
  5. JSebWC

    The Million Dollar Sub..

    Ever wondered what a Million dollars will buy you these days..?? Most of a 6538 Sub, explorer dial- Meters first red text. and they even throw in the 18mm Nato strap, On the house!! And this is why I love this Rep building hobby Does anyone Make this dial? https://www.hodinkee.com/articles/rolex-submariner-6538-christies-new-york-most-expensive-ever
  6. Hi everyone i cant decide on which Rolex Submariner Hulk to go with they are both really nice but i want the one that looks closest to the Genuine! Heres the links to both of the watches im looking at. NOOB V7 - http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=15352 This one says i can change the external parts i am thinking of changing the face and bezel for a genuine. VRF - http://trustytime.store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_7&products_id=18064 This one doesnt say i can change anything but it does look very nice! If you guys can tell me which one is the better one or give me links to a better one than these to would be amazing and much appreciated! Thanks Very Much!
  7. Hi everyone! I'm quite new to the forums and I wasn't sure if this was the correct place to post this. Anyway, I'm looking for some help from some reputable members on here who can guide me in the correct direction. I'm looking for a replica Rolex Submariner. So far I've narrowed it down to these three: http://www.intime.co/rollie/2725-submariner-116610-lv-black-ceramic-v2s-1-1-jf-best-edition.html http://www.intime.co/rollie/2637-2016-submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v6s-sa3135-1-1-noob-best-edition-.html http://www.intime.co/rollie/2640-2016-submariner-116610-ln-black-ceramic-v6s-a2836-1-1-noob-best-edition-.html Not sure which is better though. They obviously have slight differences but I would like to ask someone who has experience with some of these particular models. Also if there is better websites out there that offer a better price. Thanks everyone and have a good day!
  8. Don't mind the two SDs. This is a Sub thread. I have no idea how I got so obsessed by these. I had no interest in Rolex when I first joined the fora. So for your viewing pleasure / displeasure: Modded 6538, work done by @NCRich. Helenarou big_dazza modded dial. Modded 5512, this one I like playing around with. Franken 5513 built by @tripdog Franken TC 16610LV V6 originally built by BK I guess you would call this a SuperFranken 16803 built by my watchnaker, loads of help from the great members of RWI on this one. 16618 no idea who made it, it has a nice little 2836 inside. This was given to me by some kind members on RWI. Now the Ceramics. My first sub ever the Noob V2/ V5/ V5.1/ V6 No Date 114060 depending on which dealer or member you talk to. I just think of it as the one before the V6s. Hulk Noob V6s 116610LV, this may receive one or two mods. I have had too many Hulks but I have decided to keep this one. I like my Sunburst dials so here are two fantasy 116610s. Kindly given to me by [USER=2295]@rwatch0[/USER] .
  9. Hi! What do you think about this model? http://www.pf-828.com/0-rlst00003w-116613-blue-14k-tt-sub-swiss-2836-3135.html?___SID=U I don't know in what factory it's made. I know there are some other popular gold wrapped models on this model but my "problem" is that i need a detachable half-link to fit my 6-o'clock side wrist like this model have (confirmed by TD). Not many other 116613 reps provides that.
  10. buffdmv

    My 16610T

    I thought I would show her off a little. Bought her a few years ago. She is my daily. Originally a TCv6 with a few bits and bobs....
  11. Hello Everyone, Greetings! Am a newbie in replica watches and i bought these SDDS and Sub in Bangkok 2 years ago. got a few question hope you could help me out thanks ! 1. judging on the picture, could the replica company be identified? 2. if yes, which version could it be? 3. could the movement be identified? 3135/A2386/ETA2386 ? 4. what are the current market value for these? SDDS SUB
  12. hello everybody i m new here and looking for submariner date as a photo which is below the .. noob 3135 movements how can i contact the dealers who has the last ones noob 3135 and 1:1 ?
  13. d4v3

    My first 6538 build

    Specs: Silix case 6538 Athaya Brevet crown and tube Swiss 2836 movement Tiger concept second hand Clarks vintage Tudor hands set Helenarou 6538 dial Sternkreuz ST19 Rivet bracelet Nato RAF $ Fat Springbars Done thus far: case tapped to accept Athaya crown and tube, lug holes drilled to accept fat spring bars, lugs hand chamfered, plexy trimmed. pending to do: Relume 3 hands and dial to match, modify bezel shape to slim and change profile, age the insert install Athayas pearl with matching lume, remove engravings and engrave with better fonts, make a true gilt 4 liner solid gold dial. I wanna say thanx to many members that helped me out with tips and sharing knowledge and with their posts, hope its doesn't bother since it's an often seen build thread, prices are by memory to encourage other members to try their builds. so the pics: Silix disassembly Drilling and tapping the case and lug holes Athayas crown and tube ready to install crown replaced Chamfering the lugs some polishing and not chamfering the lug holes Lug holes not chamfered To be continued....
  14. After hours of evaluating the best choices for sub hands... Clarks/Watchman 'Tudor' hands = seconds hand has the wrong proportions (i.e. the dot behind the seconds hand's pinion is too close), hour hand has the wrong rectangular lume proportion? the hands are a bit shorter than gen 3135 sub hands (because it seems like Tudor hands were always shorter than Rolex counterpart hands), no 3D-looking polish, poor lume? Startime 'Tudor' hands = seems like it has same problem as the Clarks hands, except the seconds hand looked improvement proportionally (i.e. the dot behind the seconds hand's pinion is further away like gen) Raffles = hour hand's rectangular lume area has skinny proportion that isn't gen-like (and commonly associated to lower-end or cheap reps), poor lume TC V2/V3 = best ETA sub hands ever made (i.e. tapered front on the seconds hand, 3D-looking polish, correct dimensions with correct rectangular lume area/location, capped pinion on v3, pointy ends, excellent lume)... but TC is gone Overall = TC hands were hands-down the best sub hands ever made - period. But now that TC stuff is pretty much discontinued, the second best seems like to be Startime? Any idea what the best available ETA Submariner hands? Have I missed out on better alternatives? Can someone please recommend me the best ETA Submariner hands out there? i have spent a long time researching and it seems like the current market for ETA Sub hands have a combination of fatal flaws Thank you!
  15. Hey I'm new in this community, and looking for some assistance. I'm looking to buy a Rolex Submariner 116610LN replica. I've seen a few names in here, NOOB Factory, JF Factory and BP Factory, but since i don't have much experience with replica watches, i don't know what to go for. And beyond that, don't know where to buy it from. I'm looking for an "Original" looking Rolex, within' 400$ - 500$. (Please comment possibilities beyond this, if you know any) Btw, the luminescence is quite important to me, don't know why but i seem to really love that feature - (Not sure it i matters, since most watches i've seen seem to have a great lume.) - Thanks in advance! Best regards
  16. Hi ladies and gents! Got these QC-pics. Think they look good, what do you think? /Akilles
  17. Hi, I am looking to purchase the best 5513 and 1675 GMT replica also in the market for a Daytona. Any suggestions please? Anybody used Trusty Time? http://www.ttw-138.com? Regards Martin
  18. Hey guys, so I bought a Rolex submariner rep. Paid $300 of trusty time. Now I when I pull out the dial to adjust the time/date, it doesn't catch anything and I can't change the time! The perpetual movement still works and ticks fine. Wtf happened?!
  19. QueTip

    A guide to 16800 builds..

    The 16800 I've been thinking about this for quite a while yet and thought I would do a little tutorial on 16800 builds as the one I did on the Bluesy builds. Since there are NO reps of that model, you HAVE to build it to have it. So first things first.. The 16800 Basically it is the model between the 1680 and the 16610 (168000 actually but are we counting this??) It is a pretty unpopular Rolex in collectors eyes so far but I am totally positive that will change drastically over time with the rarity of the Pallettoni dials and the special spider dials that are popping up in those pieces, there most likely is a great potential in those pieces. Improvements compared to the 1680: - Saphire Crystal -> no more acrylic - Rolex Cal 3035 -> no more 1570/5 (-> added QuickSet function and now high beat) - Unidirectional rotating bezel - Waterproof to a depth of 300m -> 200m on the 1680 - New crown - 703 (trip lock) -> 700 on the 1680 - 93150 Bracelet with 593 end links -> 7206 or 9315 on the 1680 with 580 end links Now let's get to the building. Of course you will want a decent case as a base for your build. I also have to say this is probably one of the hardest tasks in repdom. Find a correct case... There are not many to choose... Only ones I know about that are usable are: - 3035 ST case (old and super rare) - Phong 16800 case ($$$) Sure you could use a TC case too but that wouldn't have a shallow rehaut and just be incorrect, also you will have to drill lug holes. It's up to you to decide if you can live with that flaw or not. Imho it's not too much of a biggie but I would still hunt for a correct case. Once you have a case, move on with the sourcing of a crystal, crown and tube. I personally would go gen on all of those. - nonAR 295c sapphire crystal - 703 crown and tube After that, I would go with the decision of the bezel assembly and the bezel ring. Your choices are: - Genuine - Phong - ST - TC (if you go TC case) Bezel insert HAS to be gen imho so there goes that. Now we have almost everything except for movement, bracelet, hands and dial eh? Yeah exactly. Now it is yours to choose if you want to go matte dial (Pallettoni) or gloss dial (with WG surrounds) Special dials would be the Spider dials (also $$$ if proper one) Spider dial: The matte dials are pretty expensive to buy if you can even find them in an acceptable condition. They are really hard to come by. The gloss ones although are out there like sand on the beach, you can find them literally everywhere and also score pretty good deals on them To be periodic correct there are several Marks for the dials.. Matte dials: Mk1: Mk2: Rare dial, can usually be found on watches with serial numbers from 6.1 to 8.5 mil ('84-'85) The hyphen in the wording 'Swiss - T<25' is perfectly centered with the '6 Marker whilst on the Mk1 it was placed more on the right. Also in the depth indication the tail of the letter 'f' almost touches the tip of the letter V in 'SUPERLATIVE'. Mk3: Even rarer dial than mk2 The two hyphens of the '=' in the depth indication are staggered - not aligned to each other Mk4: Now the Mk4 is a special dial since it is a dial that was around at the early serials. It is unique for the font of the 'ft' and the inclination. Gloss dials: Mk1: Mk2: I think the difference between gloss Mk1 and Mk2 are obvious, so I will not get into them now. Bicchierini Dial the Beyeler dials with WG surrounds that came out in '84 and lasted for a year or two. These dials would have the same printed font as the matte dials and were supposedly gloss dials but a lot of them have lost their gloss over time. This is a Beyeler dial- circa 84-85. (taken from alli, thanks I forgot it) If you have found a dial you like, go and buy a hands set, you should use: - genuine - TC LN v2 and age them to match the Patina of your dial. When it comes to the movement, the question is all about your wallet. You can go: - genuine cal. 3035 - ETA Now last but not least, we're having the bracelet.. For that you can choose between those: - genuine 93150 - PT 93150 - anything else aftermarket However I would suggest at least getting a genuine clasp for it. Please also keep the dating of the clasp code in mind so that it mates up with the rest of your build specs. After you have sourced all of those parts, send them out to the watchmaker of your choice and have him build the 16800. Happy building! :sparta::hi: @Sogeha
  20. XM195

    Rolex Submariner

    Hello fellow members. I've just registered, and I'd like to ask you a question. I know that maybe such questions are common here, but I have a serious dilema. I have 19cm wrist, will submariner look ok on me? Anyway, I wanted to buy V7 Submariner from N. What do you think about it? I've found a video HERE and it looks marvelous. There are some retailers selling them online, but maybe you happen to know trusted retailers? But I've also found site called iSwiss, on which they sell V7 really cheap but it's NOT RECOMMENDED and there are several comments saying N. replicas are bad. What do you think? Kind regards for everyone!
  21. UmpaHimself

    1680 Service Dial + SH3135

    I've been holding on to an 80's 1680 white service dial and insert for about a year now. My original plan was to put it into an MBW case but once I realized, to make it fit I was going to have to shave the dial down I decided not to go down that route. I have also been away from the rep game for a while. I see this new SH3135 movement being offered by JF Factory. I was wondering, if I bought a Phong case that was more correct spec, would I be able to combine the service dial and this new movement with out cutting the dial feet? Would the date wheel line up and would this movement fit in that case? Any help is greatly appreciated!
  22. I've been selling all the watches for some time ... And I bought one again and made some pictures of it. Regards.
  23. indywatchguy

    Rep Rolex Sub C LV on eBAY?

    Rep Rolex Sub C LV on eBAY? Rolex experts take a look and chime up....rep? Highly likely with one feedback. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rolex-Submariner-Date-116610LV-Wrist-Watch-for-Men-/162382449600?hash=item25cebf8bc0:g:11kAAOSw4DJYlLhL
  24. Hello there, I've received the QC pics of my new Submariner 116610LN V6s. As I'm not VERY good with doing QC's; I'd love to receive some help from the more experienced, (Rolex) Qc connoisseurs. Please chime in with your knowledge and help me out as much as you can, would be greatly appreciated. - Are there any flaws? If so, which? - Should I ask for more (detailed) pictures? - Should I Accept it? I hope to hear from you guys, I have about 16 hours to get back to them before they will send it to me. Thank you so much in advance!
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