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Jismaa 125 and Molykote DX oil


watchas1

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I was watching the ETA 7750 assembly on eta.ch website and I have a question regarding oiling of Asian A7750.

How different in viscosity are these Jismaa 125 and Molykote DX compared to Moebius D5 and 9010??? Maybe it would be ok to substitute these two types of oil (Jismaa 125 and Molykote DX)?

From the assembly one can see that Jismaa 125 oil is used only once, on 31.080 driver cannon pinion. Molykote DX is also used only on several parts:

- 51.050 Yoke;

- 55.200 chronograph cam;

- 55.281 Lock, 2 functions;

- 55.241 Hammer, 2 functions;

- 55.248 Hour hammer;

- 55.055 Hour hammer operating lever.

So, I would need your experienced advice what would be the result of oiling these parts with substitute oil or not oiling them at all? I mean, knowing that new Asian A7750 movements come unoiled at all and they still work well, so maybe it is ok?

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Not to come off a an a$$, but I assume you have no experience in the servicing of a watch by your question?

If you use D5 or 910 in place of DX, you are just going to end up sending oil throughout the watch causing more harm then good. DX and Jismaa as not oils, in the sense of the term. Each lubricant in a watch servers a special functions and there are reasons why each type is used and how much of it is used.

Sometimes, and you only know those "sometimes" through experience, you can exchange what types of oils you use and where to help with friction issues. Sometimes it take a mixture to get the results you need, but again this comes with spending may hours under a loop.

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Not to come off a an a$$, but I assume you have no experience in the servicing of a watch by your question?

If you use D5 or 910 in place of DX, you are just going to end up sending oil throughout the watch causing more harm then good. DX and Jismaa as not oils, in the sense of the term. Each lubricant in a watch servers a special functions and there are reasons why each type is used and how much of it is used.

Sometimes, and you only know those "sometimes" through experience, you can exchange what types of oils you use and where to help with friction issues. Sometimes it take a mixture to get the results you need, but again this comes with spending may hours under a loop.

Oh yeah, sure, I have no experience no education in watchsmith whatsoever, I just want to try to play ;) So, I start by doing a homework, learning as much as I can before making a cut into the watch :)

Anyways, I was thinking to save on buying 4 types of oil, but now I got a better idea. I will simply visit my local watch repair store and ask them to drain me a few drops of each oil. I am sure guys will do so for a few beers :)

Thanks for your response.

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  • 1 year later...

Not to come off a an a$$, but I assume you have no experience in the servicing of a watch by your question?

If you use D5 or 910 in place of DX, you are just going to end up sending oil throughout the watch causing more harm then good. DX and Jismaa as not oils, in the sense of the term. Each lubricant in a watch servers a special functions and there are reasons why each type is used and how much of it is used.

Sometimes, and you only know those "sometimes" through experience, you can exchange what types of oils you use and where to help with friction issues. Sometimes it take a mixture to get the results you need, but again this comes with spending may hours under a loop.

Found this post while googling Jismaa 125 (which is recommended by ETA for their 7750). Everywhere I've looked mentions Jismaa 124, but not 125. Is there much of a difference? Only thing I found was that the 125 is a heavier grease than the 124.

Any thoughts?

(yes.... I am in the market for some oils so I can start practicing servicing some movements :D )

Also read that Moebius 9501 is used in place of Jismaa 124 - but can it be used in place of 125?

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Found this post while googling Jismaa 125 (which is recommended by ETA for their 7750). Everywhere I've looked mentions Jismaa 124, but not 125. Is there much of a difference? Only thing I found was that the 125 is a heavier grease than the 124.

Any thoughts?

(yes.... I am in the market for some oils so I can start practicing servicing some movements :D )

Also read that Moebius 9501 is used in place of Jismaa 124 - but can it be used in place of 125?

I am thinking 125 is a mis-print by ETA, as like yourself I was looking for 125 at one point. I talked with my buddy and he said Jismaa 124 or 9501 is what he uses and what is used in the schools. I have used both 9501 and Jismaa 124 where they are called for (areas where clutching is required) on different movements. No noticeable difference.

What I have learned about lubes:

- All the oil recommendations from ETA are biased to a large degree.

- There are other brand oils/lubricants out there that work just as well and better…they are just not recognized by the all mighty ETA as being good enough. But they are good enough for Patek!

- Seems ETA is constantly updating their oil charts with the latest and greatest lubes on the market.

- A good watchmaker knows what lubricant is required to solve the issue. I have seen lubricants mixed to get the correct viscosity and effect, required at the point of lubrication.

PM me is you want to some 9501. Have a massive tube of the stuff. Could never possibly go through in my life time.

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I am thinking 125 is a mis-print by ETA, as like yourself I was looking for 125 at one point. I talked with my buddy and he said Jismaa 124 or 9501 is what he uses and what is used in the schools. I have used both 9501 and Jismaa 124 where they are called for (areas where clutching is required) on different movements. No noticeable difference.

What I have learned about lubes:

- All the oil recommendations from ETA are biased to a large degree.

- There are other brand oils/lubricants out there that work just as well and better…they are just not recognized by the all mighty ETA as being good enough. But they are good enough for Patek!

- Seems ETA is constantly updating their oil charts with the latest and greatest lubes on the market.

- A good watchmaker knows what lubricant is required to solve the issue. I have seen lubricants mixed to get the correct viscosity and effect, required at the point of lubrication.

PM me is you want to some 9501. Have a massive tube of the stuff. Could never possibly go through in my life time.

Thanks for the tips BM! So, based on your experience, what is a good list to start with when getting some oils? I just ordered an oiler kit from Offshore. I know that D5 seems to be a pretty major one, and Moebius 941/9415 also seem to be pretty critical.

Any thoughts on a good "shopping list"? :D

EDIT: Nevermind :doh: You already mentioned that in an earlier PM ;)

So for the others who might be interested, here is a small list of "essential oils"

Moebius D5

Moebius 8010 (although I have seen 9010 as well)

Moebius 941

Main Spring Barrel Oil & Grease (for automatic movements as it is for clutching)

Moebius 9501 or Jismaa 124 Grease for Cannon Pinion Clutching

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Moebius 8217 for main spring barrel grease

Moebius 8141 for main spring (Automatic. I use a little heavier for manual wind)

Molykote DX for high pressure areas like the chrono reset hammer on a 7750.

The 941 is used on the pallet fork...or any place you need extremely light oil.

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