cjjoyce1

Nicely done! Some of those MBW's kick butt over Yuki or anything else.

Yeah - very interesting dial! The hyphen in oyster-perpetual is not common in non-guilt/gloss versions out there. Perhaps an ingod dial sourced a while ago F had been sitting on?

Well said zaza. Sure you can get the experts to critique it and sure it's got flaws - It's a rep! But it's the one that caught your eye the most. Don't second guess yourself on our account! Great watch! Wear it well!

I've used a torx-tip screwdriver before. Can't recall the number, though. Also a small punch inserted to friction fit works.

+1 @superlative - interesting to know. Me and another person on RG had a bad experience with CW too - we actually ended up getting contacted and order fulfillment because of the ebayer. Since their pics were the same as CW's, we expected them to be the same entity - which they claimed they weren't, but did know CW's and would get them on the ball. CW ended up sending me two DWO's. A white and a gold. Neither were open 6 and 9, the printing is off center (the 20's are reeaaallly close to the edge, so the only way to get your date centered in the window is to mount it offset slightly O_o ), and the printing on the white one is really thin and light. Here's what the white one looked like mounted. We swapped it out.

Nice Mark 1 long "E" dial. First, depending on what overlay you have, it may not work - make sure the numbers are progressing in the correct direction. Second, I hate to rain on the parade, but technically a gen 1575 movement isn't a "true GMT" either. The GMT hand isn't independantly settable it only follows the hour hand. And a DG 3804 is a true GMT.

I've removed mine twice. Each time with great difficulty, yet only once scratching the case. In both instances, however, I bent the bezel. Each time I spent about an hour with two pieces of pine board and my vise, sandwiching the bezel between the pine and squeezing in the vice. Rotate, squeeze, rotate, squeeze, check on a level metal plate with a light shining behind, repeat.

Definitely has tritium migration and "foaming" going on, but I disagree with the retouched lettering comments. Nearly every "long E" Mk 1 dial I've seen has goofy lettering on it. The "O" in rolex looks like it's cocked a bit, the spacing between all the letters in rolex is off, the L is practically touching the E. The SCOO is all off too. Have a look at these. There are several Mk1 dials. http://www.network54.com/Forum/539585/message/1172274032/1675--Various+dials--posted+by+Morgan

I love sleeper watches like this! At first glance, no one knows what they're looking at - hell, even upon CLOSE examination most people don't know what they're at. But these are great! I'm gonna take a stab here - Ingod dial, JMB custom bezel. . . what else? Specs please!

With all our 1675's being flaunted right now, it's nice to see this standing out from the crowd~! Gorgeous!

No words, mate. . .

I thought you said this was a "vintage" project lolz. A true Birthwatch! Very, very cool! I'm more than envious

Thought it might be one of these http://www.ebay.com/...=item27c15bff78

Like around $80?

Starting to see a bevey of these long arm, small pointed GMT hands. . . What was your source? They look great, and have a nice, wide base!

Is your case a service case too? If it is, does it have a serial number yet and a date stamp under 1675 in the caseback?

Welcome to the forum. Please brace yourself as these types of questions bring the wrath of the gods upon you. First, you have fallen prey to one of the top 10 lies of replica watches. There is NO grading system. Any advertisements of such are lies, unless you can find the true AAAA++++ grade replica's, in which case you shall be required to return here and inform the membership of your find. Upon which you will be summarily shot for revealing the source of TRUTH (i.e. "who has the best sub?" The answer to which has been a carefully guarded secret since the begininng of rep-dom. Many Bantha's have died protecting this information) Secondly, on the forum there are Trusted Dealers. Their sections can be found toward the bottom of the main page of the forum. They are Trusted Dealers because, generally, they don't sell crap, and they don't rip people off. They have been vetted by the members and the admins. You will be advised by all to stick only with them. Third, you will be told you haven't done enough homework yet, go back and use the search feature more. No. You haven't. You may think so, but you are only delaying the inevitable. Do it, again! Fourth, you will be given much good and confusing/conflicting advice as the membership can heap upon you. And you will be told to benefit from it. Do so. If you heed the advice in #4, do not ask obvious and silly questions thereforth such as "but who is BK? and where can I buy from him?" Such questions will cause the membership to smote you about the head and shoulders with a decomposing goat carcass. Good luck

Here is my Gen 1675 case and bezel. Purchased off a fellow RWG'r not long ago.

Which hands, for which movement?

If this is your first crack at crown guards, two pieces of advice. Look over pictures of gens ad-nauseum. Front, back (very important) sides, and from different angles. Know what you are truly aiming for in your end product. Next, nab a couple cases from the sales sections on the forums to use as guinea pigs and practice. For $25 or less, they're a good investment. Jewelers files are also a good investment. Sandpaper, dremels, files, 3M polishing papers, cape cods, mothers mag wheel polish are all in my arsenal for doing them, too. Remember to post pics!

Welcome to the 1675 club! What a beaut~! What's beating inside, and where did you get the small 24 hr hand? Gen I assume, right?

Yeah, what grifter said! Glad to see you're finally doing this, you've been longing for one for a while now.

My 5512 "1:1" case that originally came from Josh (with the stubby crown guards) is also marked Polex.

Nicely done, mate! It's very difficult to get the mixture right so it doesn't shrink and deform as it dries. Good job!

It is, and it just may be on purpose by the director or prop master. I've heard it said that on many film sets, the watches aren't running if they are conspicuous in the shot. That way, when they "go back to one" to reshoot a shot, the watch is at the same time in each take. That way when the final cut comes out, the actors watch doesn't say 2:15 when he answers the phone, but 12:45 when he hangs up.