highoeyazmuhudee

you think he's bad? try meeting his sister, dont even attempt to conduct business on that day, she will banish you. that store has a very odd backwards way of conducting business, when all the tourists left the area due to instability from the red shirts they jacked up their prices sky high to cover their potential losses, they have no concept of supply and demand and are opportunistic feeders, they say "eee tah" you always say "show me the movement" theyll protest, but low and behold its a poorly assembled seagul inside being sold at eta prices. I believe i have developed the best rapport i can with the shop keeper, who claims to not even be the boss despite the store being named after him. he knows what i expect of him when my minions come around, and you know what, i havnt had a seagul movement since, ive [censored] him off so much with demanding a visual inspection of the inside case that he knows not to mutually waste time with anything other than an ETA well thats my little story

you will need to swap out the tube for a 24-7030 is this a noobmariner? the rehaut engraving does not align with the hask marks the hash marks around 'swiss made' on the dial are incorrect for a sub post f serial (this being an M or V serial). sand the engravings off the rehaut, polish and youre already way ahead. i have no idea why the factories would even bother with the engraving, who cares, and it ruins a good rep with additional flaws.

that is pretty awesome

availability. slow beat movements are pretty much obsolete in the swiss world. and everyone wants a swiss automatic. enter marketing. the average replica buyer knows that a rolex sweep is smooth and wants that look even if its incorrect for the vintage models (a fact theyre ignorant to) this is my educated guess anyways

this is an interesting turn of events. dont exceed 1.25mm - 1.30mm for these holes.

its definitely different than the ones Chris was getting when i ordered mine over the couple years he was around. like i was saying about MBK if you go there and order a 1680 youre not getting what youre expecting, you have to explicitly tell them what you want exactly and expect, even then when they make it for you (as it takes time for them to procure it) its of lower quality example, and they'll firmly state this is it when its not. you tell them you dont want the catalog or street stuff, and price is not the issue. serial numbers are also very helpful as they can order based off that and its a good measure of what youve got in your hands. ignore the polex stuff, in fact some of the best 16610s from there didnt even say polex on the lugs but rather inside the caseback.

did someone say vintages? lug holes are a big deal, try drilling virgin holes (no pun intended) all those crowns need replacing, and i cant see the rest

pretty nice

+1

tis NO "MBK". even the clasp is disturbingly wrong. hope you didnt pay mbk prices. the mbk 16610 (from my collection) im going to buy another one soon from MBK, this time an A serial build. Dizzy how old is yours? MBK is an odd place run by even odder people. there is a procedure for getting exactly what you have in mind from them as there is so much variation is what they carry (many different tiers including junk), and even then you have to QC by means of them even opening the case back in the store (which theyll refuse to do, but have done).

same thing happened to me, i ended up using a philips screw driver and a hammer to chisel it off, worked perfectly and cleanly. acetone after to remove any residue, no crystal damage. i had uninstalled the crystal before doing any of this mind you

interesting. all it needs is a better case. that one's noticeably too deep.

which 16610 you getting? A serial, M, or Z? be certain you specify there are cosmetic differences, and perhaps quality differences depending on their true origin. the Taiwan factory may have a better 16610 at this point and thats what BKs using.

this'll be a thread to watch

a jig and a laser guided drill press probably

let me try and illustrate it better gen 5513 vs PT 1665 hour hand comparison. no matter which sport model you look at with mercedes style hands going all the way back to the early 5513s the hour lume always go to the base, this is true even with the new ceramic. reps however can never seem to get this little detail correct with the exception of the wm9s. to me this is an instant tell when im looking at pieces, to others probably not. even yuki, clarks, and WO hands have this problem. luckily i got 1 pair of wm9 hands but had wished i'd gotten more. its a little thing but its the little things that make the difference. its like if the mona lisas smile was slightly off when being authenticated an expert would notice the slight difference and the casual browser would know something wasnt right but couldnt quite put their finger on it

agreed. if someone can get me some serial numbers for these models. tw, noob, mbw? i'll see what i can find

ive tried drilling lug holes in a noob factory case, ruined 3 cases with still no success. had all the right equipment too. the problem is the drill bit is so thin at 1.25mm that it bends and walks out of alignment once it touches the case. ive tried drilling it straight then adjusting to the correct angle, ive tried using a pin vise to start a pilot hole, ive tried reversing the bit to eliminate the bit from walking. theres a good reason no one will do it. but you must try for yourself, who knows maybe youll discover a technique that works. one strategy i didnt try was drilling from the inside out at an angle of course, then correcting it. jmb may have had some success with this, but then again he also has a professional machine shop and the years of experience that goes with it.

apparently the dial is genuine and this is the result of environmental wear and tear

Ive bought mine exclusively from an ebay seller that sells all size ranges. they are tungsten carbide and have had great results, they are sharp and typically last me around 5 holes per bit (some 3 but the angle may have been slightly off causing it to bend) the size I buy is 1.25mm and its perfect! the bits also come with a 1/8 shank for maximum stability in the chuck, no slipping. price per bit with shipping i believe IS under $2. i cant find the seller or the listings as of now but they have consistently sold them

it probably stopped working because it was a clone. get the real deal or a sellita

which model and which factory case are you trying to drill? existing holes to be enlarged or virgin? does the watch need to be disassembled and then reassembled?

which year and ref model had fat vs tall?

i bet its a custom job, better ask orchi

that dial's missing an 'i'