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My R20 from 2003 has this listed: Crown: 24-600-0 Tube: 24-6020 Crystal: 25-295-C1 Crystal Gasket: 29-295-1 Caseback Gasket: 29-317-8

You could buy the Swiss movement and know you are getting a solid built movement. I would still recommend a service for it either way. It will probably still require quite a few of the modifications I did to mine. You would have to decide what flaws you could live with. The Swiss movement also beats at 18000 vs. 21600 of the genuine. I personally wouldn't spend the extra money on a Swiss movement if you are planning on having some modify it (or doing it yourself). I would save the money and spend it on mods. The Asian movement is very good if properly serviced. Hope that helps answer your question.

Great pics! I have always wanted to try one of those myself. I saw one I a store yesterday, so I may try one out.

Thank you so much kind sir for taking the time and measuring those for me. I am going to save that information and add it to my files. That answers my question perfectly. Thanks again!!!!

Wow!!! Thanks for the detailed explanations. I hate to even ask follow up question since the replies were so thorough, but do you know the height of the sapphire bezel for the 16200? That is what I am planning on building and would rather buy one bezel if I can help it. Thanks again!!!

Can anyone please tell me the correct size for an engine turned bezel for a 162xx Datejust? I see a lot on eBay and many say that the acrylic and sapphire are the same. I have also read that is not true due to the sapphire crystal's gasket height. The gasket height is 2.3mm for the sapphire model (or so I am told) so I assume it has to be at least that tall. Any guidance would be much appreciated. Thanks!

Very nice work!!!! These parts are getting harder and harder to find.

Thanks everyone for the information. It answers a few questions that I have had in the past and about this dial.

Ha! You are probably right. I had two other 1680 service dials that simply had Rolex (once) on the back with a coronet. I assumed that these were later dials since they matched my 16610 dial back marking. So is it safe to say this may be an early Rolex made dial?

Thanks everyone! I don't know if it is a Beyeler as it doesn't have normal markings. I haven't been able to find the maker of this one. Here is the back of my dial:

Finally got around to snapping some pictures of the finished product. I have to say that I really love this watch. I have been wearing it for a week now and cannot believe it took me this long to get one.

Thanks again for the help. The Rolex R20 catalogs I have say the 16610 Dub should have the 29-295-2 gasket, which I am assuming is 2.7mm. I will have to go back and look at what gets the 3 and 4 gaskets. The reason I am asking is to find out the other 3 measurements according to Rolex. I want to build a Datejust and need to know the correct height of the 29-295-1 gasket. Thanks again!

I have an extra gasket from the packaging that came with a genuine 295C crystal and it is 2.7mm. I think I also read somewhere else that the gasket 29-295-2 is 2.7mm. Like you though, I could be wrong . Thanks for the help!

Thanks but I am not sure that their website is correct. The C2 gasket should measure 2.7mm but Otto Frei says it is 2.5mm.

Hi Guys, I have been looking for about an hour and cannot find the heights for C1, C2, C3, and C4 crystal gasket heights. I know that the Sub uses a C2 gasket that is 2.7mm. Does anyone know the other three? My materials just list gasket numbers but no measurements. Thanks in advance for the help!

It turned out great and I always love your pictures!!!

Thanks for the compliment! The balance wheel is the stock rep balance. The bevels on the crown and ratchet wheels are indeed polished but perhaps not as much as the genuine. I did't want to chance marring the rayed finish so I made the decision to leave them as is.

I would not say that it is common. Did the stem just come out on its own? If so, there is something broken or too much force was used. It shouldn't come out on its own.

You might not be hosed yet. Try to gently insert the stem wiggling it gently. It might snap in place. If not try to gently press the stem release button while inserting the stem. I say gently and not too far. If it won't stay, you may have to reset the keyless works. With these movements, I always put it into the time setting mode before removing the stem. Best of luck!

The nylon tips don't actually hold the hands. You just have to select the tip that will fit over everything but overlap the size of the hand. The larger tips are for hour hands since they have to fit over the canon pinion. I normally use a piece of rodico to place the hand in place. What this press has over the hand held press is that your press stays in a vertical orientation (assuming your movement is level). With a hand held, there is a chance of slipping or pressing hands on crooked. Chrono hands are a pain because they always want to wander ever so slightly. Just use lots of caution, patience, and don't get frustrated.

To set the hands, I have a single Horotec hand press. There are cheap copies on eBay that probably work just as well. They even have a triple press so you can leave everything in place. My method is to set the time until the date clicks over. That is midnight, so I pseudo set the hour hand to 12. I turn the crown 24 hours to make sure it is set to exactly 12. If it is, I press it on fully. I then set the minute hand and make sure that it lines up with the hour hand. The second hand is done on an adjustable movement holder that has a support for the sweep second pinion. It's not too hard but you have to be careful not to scratch the dial or hands. It also helps if the hands are an exact fit, with no broaching or closing. Hope that answers your question.

Finally got some time to put things together. Just need to get some proper pictures of the finished product. But, here are some assembly pictures. Thanks for looking!!!!

I don't really see it as an issue. This is one of the few watches that will never be sold. I also don't know how much longer RSC will service these older models. If they do give me a hard time, I can always do it myself (parts willing) or find someone with an account that can. I wanted that NOS feel and buying a watch and adding parts was too cost prohibitive.

I finally received the last remaining piece of the puzzle for my 1680 build. It came yesterday, but I am actually too tired to do anything with it today. It is killing me because it has taken over a year to find all of the correct pieces. But....I know that I will be in a better frame of mind to work if I get a little sleep. Here she is in all of her glory.... Here are the other pieces to the puzzle (all pieces are new or NOS)... I know that I could have bought one for the price I paid for all of the parts, but there is no fun in that and it would not be as nice as this one will be. I will keep the thread updated with pictures as I make progress.

Hi Guys! Does anyone know if it is possible to tighten the hinge on a folding clasp blade? I have several genuine clasps that are a few years old that are still quite stiff. I have a 93250 clasp that is just plain floppy. Can this be tightened or do I just have to live with it?Anyone know how to tighten this again? Thanks in advance!!!